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Why no love for the three piece suit? - Page 16
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Your "opinion" brings to mind Jackie Gleason, who 3 of the if not best dressed wearer of 3 piece suits ever.
Several former football players, Howie Long, Michael Strahan, etc were wearing 3 pieces last season as well.
Slim people, pffft!
To the OP, my answer is that a 3piece suit only looks good on slim people. Looking at obesity rates everywhere, especially America, it ain't gonna be popular anymore.
Besides, style knowledge has improved to the point where we don't need to wear so many pieces of clothing to look good anymore.
I would bet you in the days when people were wearing 3 piece suits typically, there knowledge of style was a lot better than it is today.
There are a couple of reasons why the vest is less common today, despite its undeniable sophistication:
1. For the vest to lie smoothly, it should be worn with suspenders, but most men prefer to wear belts.
2. Many men like to wear low waisted pants that sit on the hips, but vests need to be paired with high waisted pants. This is to avoid a gap between the vest bottom and pant top that would show the shirt and tie.
3. A proper vest is difficult to tailor. It needs to conform closely to the body, so as not to wrinkle the jacket. A vest also needs a waist, hitting exactly at the waistline of the trousers, for a smooth transition between the upper and lower body. Evelyn Waugh, in his wonderful essay on dressing well, said that the vest "is invariably a failure except in expert hands." The challenge of tailoring a vest makes it less common in ready-to-wear and even in bespoke.
4. The trend in clothes is towards greater casualness, and vests are seen as more formal, like stiff collars or French cuffs. In denim colored eyes, vests seem "fussy."
5. Ample central heating is more common, compared to the old days when the thermostat was turned down to save money. In a 70 degree office, vests have gone the way of 18 oz suiting fabric.
It's a shame, since the three piece suit, if done well, can be striking:
For Waugh's essay, see: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/01/beau-brummels-on-14000-year.html
BTW, correct me if I am wrong, but Prince Charles buys most of his suits (the DB and morning suits, anyway) from G&H, right? That suit that Prince Charles is wearing looks like it is from A&S or one of the Savile Row tailors (such as Timothy Everest, Anthony J. Hewitt, Stephen Hitchcock and Steed, to name a few-okay, several) that have the same house style as (or a similar house style to) A&S.
Indeed. I believe that a well fitting 3 piece is the best way for overweight to minimize the weight.
I'm not sure i can articulate why but I believe that the vest breaks up the expanse of the shirt and smooths out the radius of curvature of the stomach -- that fools the eye.
When I get more time, I'll post pictures of Jackie Gleason, Edward G Robinson, Sydney Greenstreet. All look better because they are wearing 3 piece.
- Why no love for the three piece suit?
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