Originally Posted by Rambo
This is excellent but how would I apply this to my OTR shirts? They're not all standard sizes. Shit, most shirts from the same store aren't the same size in two different styles.
The problem with the jackets is that they keep making them too long. Its drives me fucking nuts when I can close my hand on my jacket. I don't know why I have such trouble getting this down. It seems fairly simple to me.
i think despos has given really specific and useful advice that with some imagination and reflection you could apply to any of your shirts.
here are a couple more thoughts:
the extra material on the sides, coupled with the tightness in the upper back, suggests that your tailors are doing the standard "lazy tailor" fix: going overly aggressive on the darts and not working enough on the sides, because the latter requires more work to get right, while darts are the easiest thing to do. yet, overuse of darts can easily have a distorting effect.
i'd suggest you start with having your tailor shape as much as they can WITHOUT darts, and then use darts only as the finishing touch rather than as the foundation of the alteration.
also, make sure that the darts are short (in height) and don't traverse vast expanses of your back (another common sin). this will help avoid excess material being taken out of the upper back. this is the likely issue, not that they are too close to the center.
as for your jacket sleeve length - a likely cause of the excess length is that when you get your sleeves measured, you are standing bolt-upright in a robot pose when you are measured. in real life you will stand less rigidly straight, and your arm will curve towards the front. this will naturally cause your sleeve to "slip down" and feel longer than it was when you were measured. so next time you get a jacket altered, make sure that when you pick up the altered product, you also try it on standing exactly as you were when you got it measured. you're probably getting what you asked for, but then discovering in real-life use it's too long. if that's the case then assume a more natural posture when you're getting measured.