Cheaney Shoes - pics and discussion

Cheaneys are prob the price/construction sweet spot for mid-range bench-made RTW English shoes. Very solid and great value for money, more like Trickers than Green or GG for example. A recent post by Theyare (bottom) in the Shoe damage thread shows they can do some pretty nice looking stuff too, even Berluti-like in their finishing. Their burnishing is nice too, and they have followed the AS and GG trend and recently brought out the Imperial range with fiddle waists. I got onto em thru a book, the main character in the Jack Reacher series wears them and even compares them favourably with Churchs and other English -made shoes.

Tenterden, pebblegrain bluchers

Theyare's Imperials (sorry don't know which)

anyone else got some of these no nonsense beauties?

Originally Posted by Pliny

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Their burnishing is nice too, and they have followed the AS and GG trend and recently brought out the Imperial range with fiddle waists.

in general. do you think this is a smart move or even a trend, which will disappear?

very pleased with my cheaneys:

Originally Posted by fritzl

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in general. do you think this is a smart move or even a trend, which will disappear?

Doesn't matter. It is an indication of quality workmanship. In general, why do high-end shoe makers take the time to add the fiddle? Marcell uses it... and he makes some top notch shoes. You would have a point if Stacy Adams added fiddles.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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in general. do you think this is a smart move or even a trend, which will disappear?

not much going for this as a 'function' - the fiddle waist is an aesthetic conceit; the beveled waist also, but if shoes were only about function we'd all be wearing trainers. Haven't seen any evidence that the fiddle waist reduces strength or function ..

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

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very pleased with my cheaneys:
]
these rock! look robust too

Originally Posted by Xiaogou

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Doesn't matter. It is an indication of quality workmanship. In general, why do high-end shoe makers take the time to add the fiddle? Marcell uses it... and he makes some top notch shoes. You would have a point if Stacy Adams added fiddles.
+1 - Fritzl u could make the same objection to brogueing, pinking, closed channel stitching and shoe color too. But all these little details elevate a piece of leather that protects your foot to a work of art, or at least a thing of beauty with high artisanal value. Just a question of which skills and aesthetic qualities you value and which skills and aesthetic qualities you don't IMO. I would hate a trend to make all shoes of ostrich leather or stingray, for example, although I could respect the skill required to do it.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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in general. do you think this is a smart move or even a trend, which will disappear?

I hope so.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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I hope so.

gives me a chuckle. i know what "we" are talking about.

Originally Posted by Pliny

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not much going for this as a 'function' - the fiddle waist is an aesthetic conceit; the beveled waist also, but if shoes were only about function we'd all be wearing trainers. Haven't seen any evidence that the fiddle waist reduces strength or function ..
imo, this is a very plain observation, anyway. for me it's more about the pedigree and heritage of the maker and the school he is dedicated to.

Originally Posted by Pliny

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Fritzl u could make the same objection to brogueing, pinking, closed channel stitching and shoe color too. But all these little details elevate a piece of leather that protects your foot to a work of art, or at least a thing of beauty with high artisanal value.
what's pinking? come on. do you really think so?

Originally Posted by Pliny

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Just a question of which skills and aesthetic qualities you value and which skills and aesthetic qualities you don't IMO. I would hate a trend to make all shoes of ostrich leather or stingray, for example, although I could respect the skill required to do it.
first, i value a well made pair of shoes and the quality of the materials. second, i value the authenticity of a "brand" opposite to "me too" products. the market and the customers will give the answer.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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imo, this is a very plain observation, anyway. for me it's more about the pedigree and heritage of the maker and the school he is dedicated to. what's pinking? come on. do you really think so? first, i value a well made pair of shoes and the quality of the materials. second, i value the authenticity of a "brand" opposite to "me too" products. the market and the customers will give the answer.
you jest.. pinking? = saw-tooth edge, like Vass tongue top edge Agreed the Cheaney fiddle is 'me too', but even 'authentic' may evolve. Cheaney's forte is classic English styles with v. robust thick and broad sole. Fiddle is not necessary for them, but perhaps they need to sell some fashionable shoes to keep afloat. As for authenticity, Did you know that Cheaney was recently purchased by the Church bros ? - so at least they are still English -owned and still based in Northhampton. I don't know where the fiddle waist originated - Lobb Ltd? - but I think it is an authentic English feature that I don't hate too much. I wouldn't buy a shoe just for a fiddle waist, and in fact I only have one.

Got a pair of these last week; Cheaney Highrove in Mocha suede. Camera is broken so I had to steal these images posted last month by ajv:

Do they use this suede for any lace ups in the imperial collection ?

I agree that Cheaney's in general are at a good price/quality/value point on the curve. I disagree that those Tenterdens are good shoes. In fact one of the things I have against Cheaney is their country shoes - especially Deal and Tenterden - the grain leather is too thin and flimsy as one can see from the photos - I know what I am talking about I own two pairs ( big mistake). However, their top range calf leather shoes can be quite nice and Herrings Premier very nice. So for me, Cheaney are a mixed bag but I am watching them closely to see what happens to them over the next five years as the Church's ownership continues to renew the company. Those Imperials look very nice by the way but I've never handled a pair.

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Do they use this suede for any lace ups in the imperial collection ?
As far as I know this is the only suede shoe in the Imperial Collection. Here's the brochure: http://www.cheaney.co.uk/ibrochure/

Cheaney Ethans in black polish. I wish the toebox was a little less roomy, but other than that, I love these shoes.