Ande Whall Denim

I'm planning on purchasing a pair from ande whall, but I can't decide on which cut; maybe you guys can help me. I'm looking for a cut similar to apc ns -- at first I thought it would be grifter, but then I thought that would be too slim. So maybe cougars would be it, but then it seems that they only have a very slight taper compared to ns. And when I see fit pics of both, it seems that it completely depends on who wears them -- sometimes the grifters look more like the fit Im looking for, sometimes the cougars. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

In short: I'm afraid that the grifters will be too slim, and that the cougars will be too relaxed/straight. Are the grifters as skinny as I'm thinking they are, or are they (about) the same as apc ns? And are the cougars as straight and relaxed as I think they are, or do they have a much stronger taper than I think they do? Thanks for any advice you guys give me

I think these will be my next indigo pair

Originally Posted by Thisisnew

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I'm planning on purchasing a pair from ande whall, but I can't decide on which cut; maybe you guys can help me. I'm looking for a cut similar to apc ns -- at first I thought it would be grifter, but then I thought that would be too slim. So maybe cougars would be it, but then it seems that they only have a very slight taper compared to ns. And when I see fit pics of both, it seems that it completely depends on who wears them -- sometimes the grifters look more like the fit Im looking for, sometimes the cougars. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

In short: I'm afraid that the grifters will be too slim, and that the cougars will be too relaxed/straight. Are the grifters as skinny as I'm thinking they are, or are they (about) the same as apc ns? And are the cougars as straight and relaxed as I think they are, or do they have a much stronger taper than I think they do? Thanks for any advice you guys give me

Can't help you with the Grifters, but the Cougars probably aren't your deal if you're looking for something like the NS. The Cougars are more like APC's Rescue cut...

Can anyone offer advice on STF or SZ? I'm not sure which ones to get.

Originally Posted by tigerFormula

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Can anyone offer advice on STF or SZ? I'm not sure which ones to get.

email ande and ask. i don't know anyone who owns the STF variety yet

the STF is the same material as LVC right?

I noticed Ande got a chain stitch machine for the hems now. Jeans are now 100% hotness.

Originally Posted by kit99bar

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the STF is the same material as LVC right?

I noticed Ande got a chain stitch machine for the hems now. Jeans are now 100% hotness.

basically. white oak cone.

Originally Posted by Thisisnew

Click to expand...

I'm planning on purchasing a pair from ande whall, but I can't decide on which cut; maybe you guys can help me. I'm looking for a cut similar to apc ns -- at first I thought it would be grifter, but then I thought that would be too slim. So maybe cougars would be it, but then it seems that they only have a very slight taper compared to ns. And when I see fit pics of both, it seems that it completely depends on who wears them -- sometimes the grifters look more like the fit Im looking for, sometimes the cougars. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? In short: I'm afraid that the grifters will be too slim, and that the cougars will be too relaxed/straight. Are the grifters as skinny as I'm thinking they are, or are they (about) the same as apc ns? And are the cougars as straight and relaxed as I think they are, or do they have a much stronger taper than I think they do? Thanks for any advice you guys give me

APC NS is definitely significantly slimmer than the Cougars. I bought some APC NS in 29. They were unbelievably tight in the thighs and top block. Just sitting down in a chair was difficult. So I returned them and bought some AW Cougars in 31. They fit kind of similar to 501s. I like em a lot, the denim color is super rich. But I wish the back rise were lower and the pocket bags were not so thick because they leave weird creases at mid thigh on me. I read the hammering trick in this thread, but by then it was too late.

Originally Posted by SykoFreak

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APC NS is definitely significantly slimmer than the Cougars. I bought some APC NS in 29. They were unbelievably tight in the thighs and top block. Just sitting down in a chair was difficult. So I returned them and bought some AW Cougars in 31. They fit kind of similar to 501s. I like em a lot, the denim color is super rich. But I wish the back rise were lower and the pocket bags were not so thick because they leave weird creases at mid thigh on me. I read the hammering trick in this thread, but by then it was too late.
I know this sounds like a weird question, but do you have large, muscular thighs? I was just wondering because what happened to you with the APC NS is something I'm a little worried about. My thighs are pretty muscular (not freakishly, but still pretty big compared to the rest of the proportions in my leg), and I'm worried that "slim-fitting jeans" are gonna just be too tight around my thighs. Is it possible for someone with bigger, muscular thighs to wear slim fitting jeans, or am I destined to wear standard jeans? Anyone else with larger thighs have any success with slim-fitting jeans (nothing skin-tight, just slim)? Am I just paranoid? EDIT: I was looking at APC NS, AW Grifters, and N&F Slimguy.

Originally Posted by Clover216

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I know this sounds like a weird question, but do you have large, muscular thighs? I was just wondering because what happened to you with the APC NS is something I'm a little worried about. My thighs are pretty muscular (not freakishly, but still pretty big compared to the rest of the proportions in my leg), and I'm worried that "slim-fitting jeans" are gonna just be too tight around my thighs. Is it possible for someone with bigger, muscular thighs to wear slim fitting jeans, or am I destined to wear standard jeans? Anyone else with larger thighs have any success with slim-fitting jeans (nothing skin-tight, just slim)? Am I just paranoid?

EDIT: I was looking at APC NS, AW Grifters, and N&F Slimguy.

If you have muscular thighs I'd stay away from the slim cuts. I have a pair of rescues and cougars which are similarly cut and I would not go any slimer than those with my thighs. For reference I have 24" thighs, 32" waist, and around 21-22" mid thigh which is usually the limiting factor.

Originally Posted by blynch

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If you have muscular thighs I'd stay away from the slim cuts. I have a pair of rescues and cougars which are similarly cut and I would not go any slimer than those with my thighs. For reference I have 24" thighs, 32" waist, and around 21-22" mid thigh which is usually the limiting factor.

Alright, that's what I kind of figured. How about these N&F WeirdGuys? Should they cater to my top-heavy legs?

Grifters are EXTREMELY SLIM in the thighs. Which is wonderful for me, but not if you have muscular thighs.

I'm going to pick up a pair of Cougars in the sanforized denim once Ande gets it back in stock this week. could anyone give me an idea of what kind of shrinkage I can expect in the inseam. Preferably someone who has a pair of sanforized to help me. How much will these shrink in a hot wash and light heat in the drier?

Just put a hole into my APCNC, time for some new denim.

Seriously considering Ande Whall but I'm not sure if I want the Raker or the Grifter. Anyone care to chime in? I want a nice, stacked skinny look without being too tight or awkward hip flares.

Grifters look a lot more like NS's sized down from the fit pics I see. The Rakers probably fit more like the NCs with the exception of the leg opening, which is much smaller and probably will stack like the stairway to heaven unlike the NC which flares out.

I personally really wish I got the Rakers the first time; the leg opening on the NC is just weird and I almost considered getting it tailored a few times.