Opinions on Channelled v.s. Stitched Aloft? Â I thought that by covering the stichings, it would prevent damage to them and protect them (from some extent) from moisture.
I don't think it makes a great deal of difference if a Goodyear sole is stitched channelled or aloft. Of course the former looks better and is also more expensive to produce, but in wear the 2 mm or so of leather, which cover the stitching, will wear off and then, there is not much difference. This applies to Goodyear where the stitching is outside the shoe. I think Blakes with the stitching going all the way through are a not suited to anything but light summer shoes. The stitching goes from the sole right inside the shoe, every stitch is a hole filled with cotton thread. If you are caught in the rain, the cotton acts as a wick to take the moisture right into the shoe. Your feet will be wet in next to no time. Â (That's the problem I have with Tod's, as all their shoes seem to have the stitching right going through.)
Here is an odd duck: I have two pairs of Bally's Scribes (purchased 97/98 before the takeover when the Scribes were still very nicely made), from the inside there are no stitches, there seems to be a "fudge welt" (as EG calls it) going all around the shoe. Â The sole is weird: the front 3/4 is channeled, no stitching in sight, while towards the arch, the stitching is visible. Â Would you know what type of construction it is?
I believe Bally "Scribe" are Goodyear and were at one time their superior handmade range (I presume not fully handmade.) I only ever tried on a pair a few years back in a sale - Goodness, were they big. I think what you describe is the same as a typical Ferragamo shoe. You see the stitching in the waist (where the sole has left the ground) then it burrows in like a subway train, goes all the way round, to emerge at the other side. In the case of a typical Ferragamo, they are Blake stitched but you could do the same thing (combining channelled and aloft in the same row or stitching) in Goodyear construction. "Fudge welt" or "storm welt" or "split reverse welt" is a way to prevent water penetation.
How can you differentiate this effect from a Goodyear shoe to that described by A.Harris when a Blake shoe has a full insole lining?
Use your fingers, you usually can feel it if it's just a thin layer of leather. If the "sock" is padded you might have to pull a little away to get your fingers in.