The only thing missing though is an explaination for the Bentivegna(?) construction.
Sorry can't help you with "Bentivegna" construction. Neither with "Africa" or "Ferrarese", which Berluti uses for some RTW shoes (apart from Blake, Goodyear and Norwegian). But names vary, so what the Italians and French call "Norwegian", the English call "Veldtschoen" and the Germans "zwiegenÃ¤ht", it is more or less the same construction, uppers turned to the outside and stitched. Do not think a welt is only present, if it is very pronounced, exaggerated and has contrast stitching like in a number of Italian designer shoes. Most of Lattanzi's shoes are in a Norwegian construction (at least my single pair is) as this gives the artisan the best platform to show-off his skills in the hand stitching department. But Lattanzi has also some "English" shoes in his collection, which will not be very different from your Cleverleys. Have a look at the sole edge of your Cleverleys. I presume they are dress shoes with a single sole. The welt is maybe 2 mm thick, then comes the sole with about 5 mm. (To be absolute precise the measurement is called "irons" which is about Â½ mm thick, so total thickness is 14 irons.) You might not see the welt, but it is definitely there. Also in a smart handmade shoe, the welt should be cut narrow and you should not see welt or sole at all, if you look at the shoe from above.
What about some of the handmade Santonis, where you see the norwegian stitching until the heel, and then it disappears? Â What is that?
Most shoes will be welted "breast to breast" i.e. the welt will disappear under the heel to enable a narrow cut. If the welt is pronounced and used as a design feature it usually runs all the way around the shoes. But this is not a hard and fast rule, so when your Santoni shoes, despite having a pronounced welt run it only breast to breast, that the way they are designed. And in spite what Allen-Edmonds publicity tells you (all A-E shoes have a 360 degree welt), breast to breast is not inferior. P.S. As a general rule if you see the stitching from the outside it is Goodyear or Norwegian. If you see the stitching from the inside it is Blake. As I said, Blake can only be done by machine, so if your Berlutis are bespoke they will not be Blake (as the majority of StefanoBi-made Berluti shoes are). If they offer you a pair of Blake, do not pay. Oii, you had several bespoke shoes made for you. The run-of-the-mill shop assistant (sales clerk) might not know a great deal about shoe construction, but they definitely do in a bespoke business. You pay enough for a bespoke pair, take advantage of that and ask them to explain you every tiny detail (down to how many stitches per inch). Whenever I have enough money to order my first pair of bespoke shoes, pity the poor cobbler. He will not know what as hit him as we will go through every tiny detail at great length.