Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.



meister said:

The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

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Could it be that it follows the curvature of the shoe? I wonder how it looks from top-down.



meister said:

The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

Click to expand...

I think the stitching is a bit crooked, in that the distance between the two threads does seem to get a bit greater at one point. When uppers are sewn, the two rows of stitching are sewn in separate 'passes', so it is very easy to be a bit less than perfect, which is what it appears happened here. In most instances, the thread color matches the upper leather, so any slight variations won't be noticeable. However, with the contrasting stitch, it does show up a bit more. I'm sure in real life it is not a big deal.

A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

I guess on a factory shoe, where the company is going to make thousands of pairs on the same last, they may actually cut the toe cap based on the exact shape of the last, rather than based on a standard curve, and hence the cap can always be close to perfect at the sides; however, bespoke shoes are made on unique lasts, so caps are cut based on the continuous curve described above.

Of course, the process of lasting the upper (which process involves significant pulling/stretching of the leather), along with natural variations in the leather, can also affect the way the upper sits on the last.



shoefan said:

I think the stitching is a bit crooked, in that the distance between the two threads does seem to get a bit greater at one point. When uppers are sewn, the two rows of stitching are sewn in separate 'passes', so it is very easy to be a bit less than perfect, which is what it appears happened here. In most instances, the thread color matches the upper leather, so any slight variations won't be noticeable. However, with the contrasting stitch, it does show up a bit more. I'm sure in real life it is not a big deal.

A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

I guess on a factory shoe, where the company is going to make thousands of pairs on the same last, they may actually cut the toe cap based on the exact shape of the last, rather than based on a standard curve, and hence the cap can always be close to perfect at the sides; however, bespoke shoes are made on unique lasts, so caps are cut based on the continuous curve described above.

Of course, the process of lasting the upper (which process involves significant pulling/stretching of the leather), along with natural variations in the leather, can also affect the way the upper sits on the last.

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insightful



C&A said:

My kid goat cap toes almost finished

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not a fan of the combination heel. barely not visible irl, though.

how would you compare with your Maftei experience?



meister said:

The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

Click to expand...

Also noticed it. Will see how it looks when I take delivery of them later next month, but expect it's not a big issue in real life. But we'll see. Will also ask what caused the distortion.

fritzl said:

not a fan of the combination heel. barely not visible irl, though.

how would you compare with your Maftei experience?

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Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.



C&A said:

Also noticed it. Will see how it looks when I take delivery of them later next month, but expect it's not a big issue in real life. But we'll see. Will also ask what caused the distortion.



Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.

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I thought your next shoe was going to be a stingray wholecut~~!



Roy said:

I thought your next shoe was going to be a stingray wholecut~~!

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I only wish hahaha!

shoefan said:

A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

Click to expand...

I was just told that the above explanation of the cap's angle is spot on. As for the stitching, Riccardo mentioned that because the stitcher has to sew the upper and reinforcement together at the skivvied part (where the reinforcement is thinned at the edges) and goatsuede is already really thin, it is very difficult to get the stitching 100% perfect.

Hope this helps. Also, I've seen the other lighter brown kid goat cap toes that T4 posted in real life and he just told me that there are also some minor irrigularities with the stiching which in real life I hadn't noticed. So I guess it will not be a big issue anyway.

here is a buckle loafer he just finished:



T4phage said:

here is a buckle loafer he just finished:

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That pair on the right is amazing



C&A said:

Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.

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congrats

who is the stitcher?



isshinryu101 said:

That pair on the right is amazing

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Affirmative on getting the juices flowing....

^





see the bellybutton?




some other gator stuff:








and details of an iguana:









some other stuff he just finished:















a model he is working on for me right now:

preliminary design:





it will not be built on that last
(my chisel toed boot last)
but on the almond shoe last
which was being replicated at this moment

adjustments to be made:
the collar of the shoe to be made higher

Now I'm not fond of Italian lasts in general, but this thread never stops amazing me. Bestetti is immensely talented.