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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects. - Page 18

post #256 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post


The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

Could it be that it follows the curvature of the shoe? I wonder how it looks from top-down.
post #257 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post


The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

I think the stitching is a bit crooked, in that the distance between the two threads does seem to get a bit greater at one point. When uppers are sewn, the two rows of stitching are sewn in separate 'passes', so it is very easy to be a bit less than perfect, which is what it appears happened here. In most instances, the thread color matches the upper leather, so any slight variations won't be noticeable. However, with the contrasting stitch, it does show up a bit more. I'm sure in real life it is not a big deal.

A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

I guess on a factory shoe, where the company is going to make thousands of pairs on the same last, they may actually cut the toe cap based on the exact shape of the last, rather than based on a standard curve, and hence the cap can always be close to perfect at the sides; however, bespoke shoes are made on unique lasts, so caps are cut based on the continuous curve described above.

Of course, the process of lasting the upper (which process involves significant pulling/stretching of the leather), along with natural variations in the leather, can also affect the way the upper sits on the last.
post #258 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post


I think the stitching is a bit crooked, in that the distance between the two threads does seem to get a bit greater at one point. When uppers are sewn, the two rows of stitching are sewn in separate 'passes', so it is very easy to be a bit less than perfect, which is what it appears happened here. In most instances, the thread color matches the upper leather, so any slight variations won't be noticeable. However, with the contrasting stitch, it does show up a bit more. I'm sure in real life it is not a big deal.

A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

I guess on a factory shoe, where the company is going to make thousands of pairs on the same last, they may actually cut the toe cap based on the exact shape of the last, rather than based on a standard curve, and hence the cap can always be close to perfect at the sides; however, bespoke shoes are made on unique lasts, so caps are cut based on the continuous curve described above.

Of course, the process of lasting the upper (which process involves significant pulling/stretching of the leather), along with natural variations in the leather, can also affect the way the upper sits on the last.

insightful
post #259 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

My kid goat cap toes almost finished

not a fan of the combination heel. barely not visible irl, though.

how would you compare with your Maftei experience?
post #260 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post


The double row of stitching and brogueing on the toecap is crooked on my monitor. Maybe because you have used goatskin.

Also noticed it. Will see how it looks when I take delivery of them later next month, but expect it's not a big issue in real life. But we'll see. Will also ask what caused the distortion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post


not a fan of the combination heel. barely not visible irl, though.

how would you compare with your Maftei experience?

Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.
Edited by C&A - 9/27/11 at 2:31am
post #261 of 1217
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post


Also noticed it. Will see how it looks when I take delivery of them later next month, but expect it's not a big issue in real life. But we'll see. Will also ask what caused the distortion.



Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.

I thought your next shoe was going to be a stingray wholecut~~!
post #262 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy View Post


I thought your next shoe was going to be a stingray wholecut~~!

I only wish hahaha!
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post


A second possible 'issue' perhaps noticed/mentioned (not sure of interpretation) is the way the toe cap is a bit angled toward the heel along the sides. Toe caps are cut with a slight curvature (based on a circle with a radius of 8 to 12 inches); this renders the cap pretty much 'square' or straight along the top of the shoe. However, depending on the exact shape of the last, the cap can angle a bit on the sides. It is considered preferable for the cap to angle toward the heel, rather than toward the toe (which would result from a cap cut with too much of a curve).

I was just told that the above explanation of the cap's angle is spot on. As for the stitching, Riccardo mentioned that because the stitcher has to sew the upper and reinforcement together at the skivvied part (where the reinforcement is thinned at the edges) and goatsuede is already really thin, it is very difficult to get the stitching 100% perfect.

Hope this helps. Also, I've seen the other lighter brown kid goat cap toes that T4 posted in real life and he just told me that there are also some minor irrigularities with the stiching which in real life I hadn't noticed. So I guess it will not be a big issue anyway.
Edited by C&A - 9/27/11 at 8:12am
post #263 of 1217
here is a buckle loafer he just finished:

loaferbukles001.jpg

loaferbukles011.jpg
post #264 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

here is a buckle loafer he just finished:

loaferbukles001.jpg

loaferbukles011.jpg

That pair on the right is amazing
post #265 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

Enjoyed both experiences. Fit on the Bestettis is a bit better than on the Mafteis, but had multiple prova fittings with Bestetti and only one with Maftei. I prefer the shape Riccardo made me, but that is really a personal thing. But must say that Maftei did make me a nice business shoe. Will go and see the latter again when he visits Düsseldorf and discuss how the fit/comfort can be improved further.

congrats
post #266 of 1217
who is the stitcher?
post #267 of 1217
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post


That pair on the right is amazing

Affirmative on getting the juices flowing....
post #268 of 1217
^

allig002.jpg

allig007.jpg

see the bellybutton?




some other gator stuff:

alligat.jpg

scatola060.jpg

scatola067.jpg


and details of an iguana:

iguan080.jpg

iguan081.jpg

copiadigfd010.jpg



some other stuff he just finished:

moliere005.jpg

gfd001.jpg

moliere019.jpg

country083.jpg

country084.jpg

country094.jpg



a model he is working on for me right now:

preliminary design:

bootr028.jpg

bootr029.jpg

it will not be built on that last
(my chisel toed boot last)
but on the almond shoe last
which was being replicated at this moment

adjustments to be made:
the collar of the shoe to be made higher
Edited by T4phage - 9/30/11 at 6:56am
post #269 of 1217
Now I'm not fond of Italian lasts in general, but this thread never stops amazing me. Bestetti is immensely talented.
post #270 of 1217
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