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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects. - Page 9

post #121 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


That is strange.

I’ve never seen anyone punching a medallion, while the upper is already stitched and on the last. Normally it is punched at a much earlier stage, before closing, while the individual pieces are still flat on the workbench.

Was that medallion an afterthought, or is that typical for Bestetti (or Italian shoemakers in general)?

I thought the same thing.

One possible reason comes to mind, however. It is a whole cut and if the last were very distorted due to bespoke build-ups the maker might be worried about centering the medallions. This approach would solve that problem.

If he's placed a piece of leather under the vamp in place of a toe stiffener he can punch into it, pull it and replace with a backing and a proper toe stiffener. No harm, no foul.
post #122 of 1177
great photos
post #123 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


I thought the same thing.

One possible reason comes to mind, however. It is a whole cut and if the last were very distorted due to bespoke build-ups the maker might be worried about centering the medallions. This approach would solve that problem.

If he's placed a piece of leather under the vamp in place of a toe stiffener he can punch into it, pull it and replace with a backing and a proper toe stiffener. No harm, no foul.

absolutely right.
it is a wholecut
and the toe is not closed yet
because he still had to add the leather toepiece

and he had to wait for the client
who was on holiday
to give advice for the medallion
post #124 of 1177
What is that "tripe" like material used inside the shoe?
post #125 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

What is that "tripe" like material used inside the shoe?

Are you looking at the underside of the crocodile?
post #126 of 1177
Thanks for another series of great photos, Roy.

What was surprising to me was that each hole the medallion was hand punched and widened. I thought there was one large punch for a medallion. Or maybe that's just for mass-produced rtw shoes.
post #127 of 1177
Ready-to-wear uses punches where all the (short) bits, are assembled on a base plate (looks rather like a printing block).
Once placed correctly, it only needs one single punch from a heavy hydraulic press.
post #128 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Thanks for another series of great photos, Roy.

What was surprising to me was that each hole the medallion was hand punched and widened. I thought there was one large punch for a medallion. Or maybe that's just for mass-produced rtw shoes.

Many bespoke makers punch all the broguing one hole at a time, as well. Sometimes this can be critical in getting large holes, for example, in corners correctly and consistently. [Some makers will choose to put small holes --the doublet--in the corner. Although this can necessitate rotating the doublet at an angle to the line-of-broguing, it can look very refined.]
post #129 of 1177
^Interesting, guys. Thanks.
post #130 of 1177

Is that real croc? Looks embossed. Great reverse though and those kudu-sharkskins are stunning

post #131 of 1177
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KitAkira View Post

Is that real croc? Looks embossed. Great reverse though and those kudu-sharkskins are stunning


No that's real croc. It's probably from the throat of the croc. That's a little finer than the belly and definitely nicer than the back.
post #132 of 1177
never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it
post #133 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it

what made you think that?
post #134 of 1177
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post


what made you think that?

Here is an awesome pair of Sharkskin chukka's from T4:
Quote:

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jsharkwelt.jpg

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sharkj008.jpg

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Edited by Roy - 7/26/11 at 4:03am
post #135 of 1177
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it

what made you think that?

dunno i guess it is just one of those things - exotic are rather an aquired taste
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