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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects. - Page 73

post #1081 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksei View Post

Sorry to burst the emerekan bubble. No offense. I like the interaction between the cultures. The hide is of course one prize.

But the tail is much less wide then the belly. A part from the tail with the big scales will therefore cost more than from the belly.


It doesn't have anything to do with being American or Russian. Nor even what "school" of shoemaking you adhere to--although I, personally, tend to favour British and Western European styles and techniques...they're so much more refined and evolved.

But if you're not a shoemaker or someone who makes items out of croc, you probably don't know how these hides are sold. In fact, both alligator and crocodile is sold by the cm--as measured across the belly of the hide. It's not how long the animal is or even how many square feet or meters is in the hide. Sold like this, the tail is really incidental. In fact, I doubt you will find too many (if any) tanners or wholesalers of croc that sell just the tails. You're buying the belly, in other words.

And to get a pattern piece out of the tail...which is the coarsest of the leather on a a croc or gator...means that you've bought a fairly large animal and probably already gotten at least one pair if not two pairs of shoes from the belly. Which, in turn, means the hide is already paid for and the tail is thus the cheapest part of the animal.

To say that because the tail is smaller than the belly, it is therefore more expensive, is to completely misunderstand the process and the leather. By that logic the legs...being really small...would be the most expensive of all.

PS...it has nothing to do with being "budget" or not, although you could reasonably make the case that since several other pairs have already been made from the belly, the tail is essentially free and is gravy for the maker.

But more to the point, someone...probably very like yourself...simply liked the large coarse tiles better than the small ones. Why shouldn't the maker use that leather if he has a customer for it...and make an additional, unlooked for, profit?
post #1082 of 1232
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q28o1vTDFbs
post #1083 of 1232

 

And look at while I was testing my Gladietor what I photographed.

I would like to do this too. But first I need to enjoy my first bespoke.

post #1084 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post
 

 

And look at while I was testing my Gladietor what I photographed.

I would like to do this too. But first I need to enjoy my first bespoke.

 

I would also like this very much...but I think if it was maybe 3 or 5 eyelet derby with same broguing style and the grain leather it would also be very nice!

post #1085 of 1232

 

I received my Novecento Marverick.   It took a longer time than I expected as he had to remake the shoes.  What happened is that the first shoes were 1 size bigger than it should be.   My size is very small which is  UK 5.5 EG and GG.  In Bastettis's last it is actually UK 4.5.  As the size gets smaller, the discrepancy between EUR sizing and UK sizing bigger. ( I experienced this with VASS too).  First test shoes were too big too, and I told Riccardo it seems more than half size too big, but both of us did not realize the degree of problem at that time.  Anyway, he remade the test shoes and final shoes for me.

 

Do I like the shoes?:  Yes

Shape of the shoes:  I like it very much.

Fitting:  Just tried in room on carpet.   Initially, heel cup shape was problematic but after 3 days trial it gets much better.   I anticipate will be very good if not great.

Leather Quality:  I am not expert, but EG crust leather looks to me better.

Outside Finish:  Probably I was luckier than some other gents here? There is no big problem such as wheel mark or frayed stitches.  There remains marking in silver color used for cutting pattern.  It is much better than my first shoes which was too big.  Color turns out to be much brighter than the first pair which needs to be returned.  It is OK for me this time, but may not be in some cases.

Inside Finish:  Finish of opening is not really clean.

Communication:  Riccardo is a nice guy, but communication was a kind of not super smooth.   Neither  I or he is native in English. 

 

Do I order shoes from him again?:  I thinks so.  Probably loafer or balmoral oxford not in crust leather.  I am not confident enough to order something complicated or different from pictures shown in his blog. 

 

I started this project as I was impressed with the shape of his shoes and am quite interested in how this remote fitting works. When it comes to final touch of detail,  there is a room for improvement and if you require a high standard such as some Japanese shoe makers', he may not be the right guy for you.  In terms of fitting of the final shoes, it is quite good and I have to say he is talented to make shoes with good shape and fitting. He can get a good amount of information from the pictures of your feet with and without shoes.  


Edited by bamboo - 6/15/14 at 4:52am
post #1086 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Outside Finish:  There remains marking in silver color used for cutting pattern.

A bit of neutral shoe polish (wax) should easily remove "silver pen" markings.
post #1087 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Outside Finish:  There remains marking in silver color used for cutting pattern.

A bit of neutral shoe polish (wax) should easily remove "silver pen" markings.


Thanks for your advice. :D  Most of those things on my pair will be no issue after wearing and polishing.  It definitely looks like silver marker pen, is it commonly used in the industry?

post #1088 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post


It definitely looks like silver marker pen, is it commonly used in the industry?

Yes, they are in general use in the leather trade.
The silver colour will show on light and dark leathers and the "ink" (I don't know what it actually is) is easily removed with the solvent in shoe polish.

http://www.leatherandgrindery.com/Silver-leather-marking-pens
post #1089 of 1232
butbut.gif
I just ordered a pair of UK5 RTW....
And without the test shoe...facepalm.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post




I received my Novecento Marverick.   It took a longer time than I expected as he had to remake the shoes.  What happened is that the first shoes were 1 size bigger than it should be.   My size is very small which is  UK 5.5 EG and GG.  In Bastettis's last it is actually UK 4.5.  As the size gets smaller, the discrepancy between EUR sizing and UK sizing bigger. ( I experienced this with VASS too).  First test shoes were too big too, and I told Riccardo it seems more than half size too big, but both of us did not realize the degree of problem at that time.  Anyway, he remade the test shoes and final shoes for me.

Do I like the shoes?:  Yes
Shape of the shoes:  I like it very much.
Fitting:  Just tried in room on carpet.   Initially, heel cup shape was problematic but after 3 days trial it gets much better.   I anticipate will be very good if not great.
Leather Quality:  I am not expert, but EG crust leather looks to me better.
Outside Finish:  Probably I was luckier than some other gents here? There is no big problem such as wheel mark or frayed stitches.  There remains marking in silver color used for cutting pattern.  It is much better than my first shoes which was too big.  Color turns out to be much brighter than the first pair which needs to be returned.  It is OK for me this time, but may not be in some cases.
Inside Finish:  Finish of opening is not really clean.
Communication:  Riccardo is a nice guy, but communication was a kind of not super smooth.   Neither  I or he is native in English. 

Do I order shoes from him again?:  I thinks so.  Probably loafer or balmoral oxford not in crust leather.  I am not confident enough to order something complicated or different from pictures shown in his blog. 

I started this project as I was impressed with the shape of his shoes and am quite interested in how this remote fitting works. When it comes to final touch of detail,  there is a room for improvement and if you require a high standard such as some Japanese shoe makers', he may not be the right guy for you.  In terms of fitting of the final shoes, it is quite good and I have to say he is talented to make shoes with good shape and fitting. He can get a good amount of information from the pictures of your feet with and without shoes.  
post #1090 of 1232
I just ordered a pair of UK5 RTW....

Are u uk5 on which brand? I think u can explain your concern to Ricardo.
post #1091 of 1232
Santoni & C&J... I don't have many non-sneaker type of shoes though...
post #1092 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I received my Novecento Marverick.   It took a longer time than I expected as he had to remake the shoes.  What happened is that the first shoes were 1 size bigger than it should be.   My size is very small which is  UK 5.5 EG and GG.  In Bastettis's last it is actually UK 4.5.  As the size gets smaller, the discrepancy between EUR sizing and UK sizing bigger. ( I experienced this with VASS too).  First test shoes were too big too, and I told Riccardo it seems more than half size too big, but both of us did not realize the degree of problem at that time.  Anyway, he remade the test shoes and final shoes for me.

Wow, I literally never heard of that problem before. I'd say I'm between 6 and 6.5 UK and literally every post I've seen from people with similar sized feet recommended similar sized shoes in EUR sizing (39.5/40). To have to go an entire size down, at least with Vass, just because your feet are on the smaller end of the scale seems illogical. Can anyone else with small feet corroborate bamboo's findings?

Nice shoes btw.
post #1093 of 1232

not sure if it's going to be helpful to you guys or not but Riccardo's sizing does not correlate with any EU, UK or US size conversion

if you don't have benefit of a test shoe at minimum, you're shooting in the dark

post #1094 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

not sure if it's going to be helpful to you guys or not but Riccardo's sizing does not correlate with any EU, UK or US size conversion
if you don't have benefit of a test shoe at minimum, you're shooting in the dark

Are you sure he's got a whole different sizing system for his rtw that only he uses? How do shops selling his RTW deal with this then?

When he made my last and test shoes way back when he actually explained to me that my heel was like an EU size so amd so, whilst the length and forefoot whete like an EU size this and that. So he is able to relate foot shapes to EU shoe sizes.

Of course an error may occur ordering his rtw shoes without trying them on first, but he should be able to advise what size to take based on foot measurements and the sizes you take from other makers.
post #1095 of 1232
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post


Are you sure he's got a whole different sizing system for his rtw that only he uses? How do shops selling his RTW deal with this then?

When he made my last and test shoes way back when he actually explained to me that my heel was like an EU size so amd so, whilst the length and forefoot whete like an EU size this and that. So he is able to relate foot shapes to EU shoe sizes.

Of course an error may occur ordering his rtw shoes without trying them on first, but he should be able to advise what size to take based on foot measurements and the sizes you take from other makers.

 

   my being sure about his fits is only as sure as the man himself and what he told me when I turned him loose to make a couple

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