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Stephan Schneider. You'll Always Find Me In The Kitchen At Parties. - Page 288

post #4306 of 4823
Schneider is one of the most flexible designers out there, which makes it overwhelming as a buyer : pretty much every shirting fabric he has in a season can be made in either regular placket or hidden placket, regular collar or Bd collar. So there's a multitude of possible shirts a retailer could order with a hidden placket.

To answer your question, the answer is almost in the question... Hidden plackets are not a classic or traditional style for dress shirts - it's as simple as that. Most dress shirts are either with a regular placket or without a placket at all (most dressy option). The only exception is tuxedo shirts which can sometimes be made up with a hidden placket rather than a studded front.
post #4307 of 4823
My only gripe with SS shirts is when he does the straight line hem as opposed to the curve. I've passed on several for that reason.
post #4308 of 4823
^ again, that is the buyer/retailer's choice. He offers both styles in the same fabrics.
post #4309 of 4823
Now that we're talking about retail buying, i'm curious-- gdl, what "hypothetical customer" do you and c4est and the rest of the gang imagine when you're choosing from collections? How has that changed since NMWA started? Or is the selection more of a personal thing?
post #4310 of 4823
I wish I could articulate clearly some smart marketing strategy with a target customer, etc... But the reality is that we buy what we like the most. I tend to go for the more conservative/subtle stuff whereas C4est enjoys some more risqué designs. My default color palette is warm but he likes the cool colors too - so we complement each other nicely, I think.

As far as target customer goes, I've long been a big believer in the idea that the same man can dress in a sharp suit, Italian shirt and Drake's tie one day, and then wear Schneider or EG or ts(s) another day. It's whatever makes you happy, you know? There's a certain level of maturity in finding the confidence to do that. The store was from the inception based on that idea - and I'm hoping it can help some typical CM guys find great stuff on the more casual end of the spectrum, as well as help some SWD guys find well-made and attractive suits, dress shoes, ties or overcoats for when they want (or need) to go classic... There's anedoctal evidence that this has been happening since we opened shop - I just want it to be a natural train of thought for all.

It's a little like the Pitti experiment of Synthese taking unbelragazzo to PNP and unbel taking Synthese to Liverano... but in a wider scale
post #4311 of 4823
Dressed by gdl nod[1].gif
post #4312 of 4823
Quote:
Originally Posted by einstine View Post

Love SS collars ...I hate big collars, they make my head look so small and awkward. 

that's because you're a noob to this style game and haven't figured things out nor will will you for a few more years
post #4313 of 4823
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

^ again, that is the buyer/retailer's choice. He offers both styles in the same fabrics.

Insanely cool. I wanna start a shop just to make f/w buys
post #4314 of 4823
schneider fw14: http://four-pins.com/style/stephan-schneider-fallwinter-2014-got-hype-willams-angles/

looks like it's going to be an expensive FW next year.
post #4315 of 4823
reposts are always exciting
post #4316 of 4823

Greg, I completely understand reluctuance in carrying size VII. At the end of the day, you have a business that needs to be profitable. You can't sit on inventory because you want to cater to every size guy out there. 

 

Here's my sob story: I have several SS coats, all size VII, I've not ever tried any other size. They all fit great, slightly relaxed, comfortable, etc. Knits, on the other hand...only size VI. They all fit good, but not great. I think we've all fallen into the trap of, "Oh, what's the pit-to-pit? 23"? Perfect, I'll take it!. Then, get it home and realize it doesn't work for some reason...

 

Case in point: I had a SS anthracite cadigan, size VI that "technically" fit, but something felt off about it. I didn't love it and ended up selling it to kgfan. I then saw his (awesome) fit pics of it and thought immediately, " Yeah, that didn't really ever fit me." It wasn't until I saw someone else wearing (literally) the exact same item of clothing I had previously owned to realize I would benefit from a size up, that its not just about garment measurements (and that it's hard for kgfan to look bad, ever). Same is true with my Ijevan...I think a size VII would be perfect. But, good size VII knits are like golden unicorns, they exist only in theory. 

 

 

 

Executive Summary: I fit size VI, but would prefer size VII. Greg, please sell size VII. 

post #4317 of 4823
Anyone else have a problem with the sleeves being too long in the shirts? I need a VII in the "slim" shirts (the ones with darts) and it fits fine everywhere except the sleeves end up being way too long.
post #4318 of 4823
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaTionS View Post

Anyone else have a problem with the sleeves being too long in the shirts? I need a VII in the "slim" shirts (the ones with darts) and it fits fine everywhere except the sleeves end up being way too long.
Had this problem with the shirts this season too. The shoulder was almost too small, pit to pit fit great but the sleeves were about an inch too long. Size 4 fits perfect everywhere but the sleeve and Size 3 fit perfectly in the sleeve but way too tight everywhere else.
post #4319 of 4823
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmaged View Post

schneider fw14: http://four-pins.com/style/stephan-schneider-fallwinter-2014-got-hype-willams-angles/

looks like it's going to be an expensive FW next year.

 

Yeah, dry-cleaning all the smoke out of every purchase is gonna be freakin' exxpensive.

post #4320 of 4823
Quote:
Originally Posted by worakl View Post
 

 

Yeah, dry-cleaning all the smoke out of every purchase is gonna be freakin' exxpensive.

:rotflmao:They have a bunch of dudes laying on the ground profusely smoking cigars for the smoke effect. 

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