@gdl203 is there a reason why CM brands (or more designers even) don't adopt the hidden placket? Just curious as Schneider seems to have at least one every season. I just wish the cut worked better for my body.
Other than Schneider, it's pretty much CKC, sometimes Margiela and KVA.
Schneider is one of the most flexible designers out there, which makes it overwhelming as a buyer : pretty much every shirting fabric he has in a season can be made in either regular placket or hidden placket, regular collar or Bd collar. So there's a multitude of possible shirts a retailer could order with a hidden placket.
To answer your question, the answer is almost in the question... Hidden plackets are not a classic or traditional style for dress shirts - it's as simple as that. Most dress shirts are either with a regular placket or without a placket at all (most dressy option). The only exception is tuxedo shirts which can sometimes be made up with a hidden placket rather than a studded front.
Now that we're talking about retail buying, i'm curious-- gdl, what "hypothetical customer" do you and c4est and the rest of the gang imagine when you're choosing from collections? How has that changed since NMWA started? Or is the selection more of a personal thing?
I wish I could articulate clearly some smart marketing strategy with a target customer, etc... But the reality is that we buy what we like the most. I tend to go for the more conservative/subtle stuff whereas C4est enjoys some more risqué designs. My default color palette is warm but he likes the cool colors too - so we complement each other nicely, I think.
As far as target customer goes, I've long been a big believer in the idea that the same man can dress in a sharp suit, Italian shirt and Drake's tie one day, and then wear Schneider or EG or ts(s) another day. It's whatever makes you happy, you know? There's a certain level of maturity in finding the confidence to do that. The store was from the inception based on that idea - and I'm hoping it can help some typical CM guys find great stuff on the more casual end of the spectrum, as well as help some SWD guys find well-made and attractive suits, dress shoes, ties or overcoats for when they want (or need) to go classic... There's anedoctal evidence that this has been happening since we opened shop - I just want it to be a natural train of thought for all.
It's a little like the Pitti experiment of Synthese taking unbelragazzo to PNP and unbel taking Synthese to Liverano... but in a wider scale