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Stephan Schneider. You'll Always Find Me In The Kitchen At Parties. - Page 287

post #4291 of 5579
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

i wish he's go back to the bigger collars, really tired of the small collar bullshit

Love SS collars ...I hate big collars, they make my head look so small and awkward. 

post #4292 of 5579
^ I thought the opposite was true, mmmmkay?

post #4293 of 5579
Another vote for small collars...whenever I see big collars I just think of 80s drug lords.
post #4294 of 5579
I think the collar size is fine for that style of shirt - not tiny but not like an Italian spread collar either. I do think that it feels a little small when made up as a button-down collar.

post #4295 of 5579
Damn that shirt looks great
post #4296 of 5579
@gdl203 is there a reason why CM brands (or more designers even) don't adopt the hidden placket? Just curious as Schneider seems to have at least one every season. I just wish the cut worked better for my body.

Other than Schneider, it's pretty much CKC, sometimes Margiela and KVA.
post #4297 of 5579
Schneider is one of the most flexible designers out there, which makes it overwhelming as a buyer : pretty much every shirting fabric he has in a season can be made in either regular placket or hidden placket, regular collar or Bd collar. So there's a multitude of possible shirts a retailer could order with a hidden placket.

To answer your question, the answer is almost in the question... Hidden plackets are not a classic or traditional style for dress shirts - it's as simple as that. Most dress shirts are either with a regular placket or without a placket at all (most dressy option). The only exception is tuxedo shirts which can sometimes be made up with a hidden placket rather than a studded front.
post #4298 of 5579
My only gripe with SS shirts is when he does the straight line hem as opposed to the curve. I've passed on several for that reason.
post #4299 of 5579
^ again, that is the buyer/retailer's choice. He offers both styles in the same fabrics.
post #4300 of 5579
Now that we're talking about retail buying, i'm curious-- gdl, what "hypothetical customer" do you and c4est and the rest of the gang imagine when you're choosing from collections? How has that changed since NMWA started? Or is the selection more of a personal thing?
post #4301 of 5579
I wish I could articulate clearly some smart marketing strategy with a target customer, etc... But the reality is that we buy what we like the most. I tend to go for the more conservative/subtle stuff whereas C4est enjoys some more risqué designs. My default color palette is warm but he likes the cool colors too - so we complement each other nicely, I think.

As far as target customer goes, I've long been a big believer in the idea that the same man can dress in a sharp suit, Italian shirt and Drake's tie one day, and then wear Schneider or EG or ts(s) another day. It's whatever makes you happy, you know? There's a certain level of maturity in finding the confidence to do that. The store was from the inception based on that idea - and I'm hoping it can help some typical CM guys find great stuff on the more casual end of the spectrum, as well as help some SWD guys find well-made and attractive suits, dress shoes, ties or overcoats for when they want (or need) to go classic... There's anedoctal evidence that this has been happening since we opened shop - I just want it to be a natural train of thought for all.

It's a little like the Pitti experiment of Synthese taking unbelragazzo to PNP and unbel taking Synthese to Liverano... but in a wider scale
post #4302 of 5579
Dressed by gdl nod[1].gif
post #4303 of 5579
Quote:
Originally Posted by einstine View Post

Love SS collars ...I hate big collars, they make my head look so small and awkward. 

that's because you're a noob to this style game and haven't figured things out nor will will you for a few more years
post #4304 of 5579
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

^ again, that is the buyer/retailer's choice. He offers both styles in the same fabrics.

Insanely cool. I wanna start a shop just to make f/w buys
post #4305 of 5579
schneider fw14: http://four-pins.com/style/stephan-schneider-fallwinter-2014-got-hype-willams-angles/

looks like it's going to be an expensive FW next year.
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