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Suitsupply NYC - Page 351

post #5251 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarinetplayer View Post


The York is not black. It is a true, dark, Navy blue.
Both suits look workable. A competent tailor could give the definitive answer.
The York seems to drape more naturally on your body.

CP: I was responding to the comment, "And since I already have a black suit, the navy-almost-black York seems redundant." I should have quoted for reference.

post #5252 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacGuffen View Post

An update on the suits. I'm going to return the Sienna. I like both the remaining suits, but I feel the Napoli has a more masculine cut, for me anyway. And since I already have a black suit, the navy-almost-black York seems redundant. But I'm still undecided, so if you have any questions or comments, I'm all ears.

I think the Napoli shoulders are the right size, I posted two pictures showing how they fit in relation to my shoulder and arm. In the second shoulder picture I'm touching my arm to give you an idea where the seam lies on my shoulder. In the wall test, the shoulder pads hit the wall almost at the same time as my shoulders, maybe 0,5 cm before.

Any comment on which suit or cut that fits me best? Please excuse the pictures, I took them alone, and the ancient digital camera was fighting me.

Napoli front (Click to show)

Napoli overexposed for better view (Click to show)

Napoli Side 1 (Click to show)

Napoli side 2 (Click to show)


Napoli back (sorry for the poor picture, it was the best I could do on my own) (Click to show)

Napoli shoulder (Click to show)

Napoli shoulder showing my shulder/arm in relation to the seam (Click to show)

York front (Click to show)


York side 1 (Click to show)


York side 2 (Click to show)


York back (again, sorry) (Click to show)


York overexposed for better view (Click to show)

The York seems to have more natural drape over your body. I'm sure the Napoli can be tailored, also. Your competent tailor will all the answers.
post #5253 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacGuffen View Post

An update on the suits. I'm going to return the Sienna. I like both the remaining suits, but I feel the Napoli has a more masculine cut, for me anyway. And since I already have a black suit, the navy-almost-black York seems redundant. But I'm still undecided, so if you have any questions or comments, I'm all ears.

I think the Napoli shoulders are the right size, I posted two pictures showing how they fit in relation to my shoulder and arm. In the second shoulder picture I'm touching my arm to give you an idea where the seam lies on my shoulder. In the wall test, the shoulder pads hit the wall almost at the same time as my shoulders, maybe 0,5 cm before.

Any comment on which suit or cut that fits me best? Please excuse the pictures, I took them alone, and the ancient digital camera was fighting me.


Napoli front



York front



I think both fit you well based on the pics.

Which one feels more comfortable when you move around?
post #5254 of 6981
Thank you, everyone! It's very useful to get some second opinions.

@coldsalmon Yes, a black suit is not very versatile indeed. I suppose what I meant to say was that I prefer the brighter (petrol?) blue of the Napoli over the York, probably because it's clearly different from what I already have and from the standard navy that everyone else wears. And that the only disadvantage the Napoli has versus the York (or a navy suit in general) would be that it's not appropriate for funerals, but that it's ok because I already have a black (admittedly cheap) suit for that.

But then again I wanted a staple suit, and a staple suit either navy or charcoal. I just wish the York was a tiny bit more... blue. I might look at the Napoli navy for that, but it seems like less value than the $100 cheaper Napoli plain blue. The €259 Napolis are just absolute steals.

Sorry, I'm rambling, I'll just have to figure out what I want. smile.gif

@bellyhungry While both suits pass the hug test and feel OK, the York definitely feels better and less restrictive, perhaps because of its wider chest? I get slightly more pulling at the shoulders with the Napoli when hugging and raising the arms. The pants of the York are also slightly better, but both pants will have to be tailored anyway.
Edited by MacGuffen - 3/30/14 at 6:44am
post #5255 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacGuffen View Post

Thank you, everyone! It's very useful to get some second opinions.

@coldsalmon Yes, a black suit is not very versatile indeed. I suppose what I meant to say was that I prefer the brighter (petrol?) blue of the Napoli over the York, probably because it's clearly different from what I already have and from the standard navy that everyone else wears. And that the only disadvantage the Napoli has versus the York (or a navy suit in general) would be that it's not appropriate for funerals, but that it's ok because I already have a black (admittedly cheap) suit for that.

But then again I wanted a staple suit, and a staple suit either navy or charcoal. I just wish the York was a tiny bit more... blue. I might look at the Napoli navy for that, but it seems like less value than the $100 cheaper Napoli plain blue. The €259 Napolis are just absolute steals.

Sorry, I'm rambling, I'll just have to figure out what I want. smile.gif

@bellyhungry While both suits pass the hug test and feel OK, the York definitely feels better and less restrictive, perhaps because of its wider chest? I get slightly more pulling at the shoulders with the Napoli when hugging and raising the arms. The pants of the York are also slightly better, but both pants will have to be tailored anyway.

Are you going to rotate the sleeve head? Might reduce the wrinkling.
post #5256 of 6981

Hey everyone,

 

I thought I would share my initial thoughts on the classic black tuxedo and get a bit of feedback on the fit. The tuxedo is interesting because it is probably the most recommended item in the SuSu store (at least on forums like this), but it's almost impossible to find any information on what it looks like in the wild. 

 

I ordered two - one in my normal size of 36R, one in 34R. I didn't do this because I'm into the tight, cropped look, but because the "product measurements" on the SuSu site are waaay bigger than what I would expect (e.g. 18+ inch shoulders and 30+ inch length on a 36R). Well, I never even tried on the 34R because the site measurements are clearly wrong and the sizing seems within the realm of what I would normally expect for this size.

 

As for the details, it's almost exactly what I wanted - silk grosgrain, big peak lapels, moderately structured shoulders, one button, jetted pockets, etc. I would have preferred a midnight navy, but I'm willing to go without - in my mind, midnight navy sounds good on paper but most examples I see of it are not great (way too blue and conspicuous).

 

Initial thoughts: button stance was not as high as I worried it might be, which is great. Not super low, but certainly lower than my other SuSu things. Fabric is pretty nondescript - black worsted, doesn't feel like anything special, but that's fine. VBC S110s, I think. Grosgrain details look good.

 

Front looks decent. Sleeves need about +1/2". Waist is about right. Jacket length is about right (don't use my arms as a reference, since they're super long). Maybe a bit of extra room in the chest, but I'm not that concerned (if it were bespoke I would just call it "drape").

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

 

The back is pretty messy. Some of this is due to the fact that the vents are still sewn closed, but it's still pretty rough. Pants are also still unhemmed, but there are some problems on the back of the legs. Thoughts?

 

AppleMark

 

Shoulders fit fairly well, but there's some amount of rippling behind on the sleeve back. Sleeve pitch problems?

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

 

Overall, it seems like a fair starting point, especially considering how hard it is to find an inexpensive tux with all the right details. The tux used to be $469, and for that price I would be all for it (and willing to go in for some heavy alterations), but the new price of $569 makes me think a bit more seriously about it. Here's the thing: I can get a MTM suit from a local guy (a guy I have used before and have some confidence in) for about $750-800. I would use the same detailing more or less, but with a midnight navy (if they have a decent one), and would expect the fit to be better. That's more than I would like to spend, but once I start adding up alteration costs for the one above, it becomes a close call. I do like the SuSu one, but it needs some help. And it should go without saying that these pictures are pretty harsh and make it look worse than it would were I moving around or not standing like a robot. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Oh, for reference - here's me in a 36R Havana last year (in much nicer lighting).

 

post #5257 of 6981
brillopad, it's a shame the back of that tux is such a mess, because that jacket looks damn good from the front. Love the lapels. But if it were me, I'd fork over the extra $$ for the MTM, even if it means pinching pennies elsewhere for a while. A good tux is something you should have for decades, if not a lifetime. Might as well get it as close to perfect as possible and never worry about any fit issues (which is the last thing I'd want to be thinking about when getting ready for an event that requires black tie). Being able to get it in midnight navy would be a big plus for me as well.

^ I say all that as someone who has never owned a tux, and probably won't for the foreseeable future. No need. Maybe one day...
post #5258 of 6981
Brillopad, I wonder if just letting out the back waist a smidge would help the drape. Shouldn't be too costly of a fix.

did you post this in the tailor feedback thread?
post #5259 of 6981

Brillopad, love the tux! In fact, I think it is a bit coincidential because I intend to order the same tux later this week for my wedding this summer, and as you said, there isn't a whole lot of reviews or critics available on the web about it!

 

Such a shame about the back, but in the same time, I think that it wouldn't look so bad once the vent are let open. The front fits truly great though. 

post #5260 of 6981

And as you said, the robot pose is something that doesn't represent the reality at all. Because we all strive for the perfect drape, uncrumpled look but when you start living in your suit (ex.: not standing still like a robot), it will automaticaly look different. 

post #5261 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Brillopad, I wonder if just letting out the back waist a smidge would help the drape. Shouldn't be too costly of a fix.

did you post this in the tailor feedback thread?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm fairly new to more "advanced" alterations like working on the back, but my hunch was that letting it out a touch might be the ticket (and opening the vents, of course). I will head over to the Tailor thread and see what they have to say. Thanks.

post #5262 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Are you going to rotate the sleeve head? Might reduce the wrinkling.
I might if my tailor knows how. I live in a relatively small town, so we're not spoiled for tailors here.
post #5263 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillopad View Post

...Oh, for reference - here's me in a 36R Havana last year (in much nicer lighting).



^^^^ This looks fantastic.
post #5264 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by bellyhungry View Post


^^^^ This looks fantastic.

Thanks. No alterations - I got lucky. If the button stance and jacket length were a touch lower I would have a bunch of them.

post #5265 of 6981
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillopad View Post
 

Thanks. No alterations - I got lucky. If the button stance and jacket length were a touch lower I would have a bunch of them.

 

Agreed, the buttoning stance of my Havana jacket is starting to bother me more and more every time I wear it. I hardly ever wear it buttoned because of this. 

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