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Suitsupply NYC - Page 168

post #2506 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 

Jacket & suit arrived in the post today (bought at SS & let them do the alterations and post the completed items to me):

 

3VhWs6g.jpg

 

Obviously, jacket isn't paired with what I'd normally wear with it; I just tried it on over what I was already wearing, to check the alterations were done right and then figured I'd take a snap for this thread.

 

The suit is also from SS, a Napoli model. The right sleeve isn't that twisted IRL, by the way, (although it does admittedly have a much more minor torque); it's catching slightly on the front of the jacket. I'm also not standing straight-on, so apologies for the distortions that introduces. Nonetheless the snaps should still give you an overall idea of the items, and maybe a more realistic one than the website photos. They're altered to my personal preferences, which is a more traditional/longer cut than other people might want and with sleeves about the same length as my shirt cuff when standing normally, so bear that in mind. Alterations were to slim waist, shorten sleeve length & shorten jacket length (slightly only) in the Havana, and slim waist, slim sleeve taper (but not shorten length) & shorten jacket length in the Napoli.

 

Size on both is 34 (I'm usually a 36S that still requires some minor alterations in most slim brands, so had to size down for SS). Overall, I'm very happy with these. Obviously, compared to my bespoke, the fit is not as good and the construction is simpler, and even compared to higher-end RTW, the fabrics are not as luxurious. But when you're buying such inexpensive items, you have to be accept compromises, and frankly, I'm very happy indeed with the items and the whole purchase experience. I'll be back for similarly occasional/seasonal pieces in future, I'm sure. Good brand.

They look good.  Glad you like them.

post #2507 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post



[IMG]

Would you mind taking a closer picture of the Havana SC?
post #2508 of 7515
For a length comparison, on the left is a 38R in the Napoli, on the right is a 38L in the Havana.

post #2509 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post



[IMG]

Would you mind taking a closer picture of the Havana SC?


Fabric close-up, you mean? Sure:

 

 

 

I tried to keep it as colour-accurate as possible; the blend makes that tough to do but it's pretty close. It's perhaps a marginally richer brown overall IRL.

post #2510 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post


Fabric close-up, you mean? Sure:





I tried to keep it as colour-accurate as possible; the blend makes that tough to do but it's pretty close. It's perhaps a marginally richer brown overall IRL.

so IRL is it a brown-based mixture of colors, or is there a pattern within it?
post #2511 of 7515

I'd describe it as a melange of different threads, with dark brown predominating. As you can hopefully see in photos, there are blue, grey, and cream threads as well, and a faint darker brown check on top of the main brown of the jacket. From a medium distance it kind of blurs together to create a brown jacket with a lot of textural/colour interest, but it's definitely not a solid colour even then. BTW, I suspect the jacket that Braddock is wearing in this post from the waywrn thread from yesterday is also the same one, and his photo is taken in natural light:

 

Originally Posted by Braddock View Post

Pitti:

 

 

IRL, I feel that the jacket comes across a little more brown than both our photos suggest. I think the silk in the blend acts to make it seem slightly more grey in photos (and gives it the appearance of more sheen) than it actually is. Between all the photos, you should get an idea of what it's like, though. Hope that helps!

post #2512 of 7515
amazing holdfast. exactly the picture and elaboration i needed, answers my question regarding length and fit
post #2513 of 7515
CousinDonut,

Did you alter the Napoli? It looks pretty slim on you. From what I gather Napoli fit is loose compared to others. Did you order your TTS?
post #2514 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

amazing holdfast. exactly the picture and elaboration i needed, answers my question regarding length and fit


No worries; glad it helps. I should add that technically, the Havana is labelled as a UK 35 rather than a 34. However, I think this is more technicality rather than anything else, as both the Napoli and the Havana are both also labelled as EU 44 and the Napoli is labelled as a UK 34. And I was an EU44/UK34 in the Soho too. So I think that might just a quirk of how Havana sizes are labelled within the UK. But I suppose worth mentioning so you have all the facts.

post #2515 of 7515
Looks great Holdfast. Thank you for the pictures and sharing your thoughts on the jacket. I'm much more inclined to make the purchase now. happy.gif
post #2516 of 7515
edit - wrong thread
post #2517 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_rocket View Post

CousinDonut,

Did you alter the Napoli? It looks pretty slim on you. From what I gather Napoli fit is loose compared to others. Did you order your TTS?

Yes, that Napoli was altered. If you go way back in the thread, to probably April or so in 2012 you'll see a post that I made comparing it to the charcoal Napoli I had bought a few months prior. If you find it, you'll see that I noted that the charcoal I didn't need to alter, but the navy I did. And my tailor went a little too far in bringing in the waist. One of these days I'll get around to letting it out some.
post #2518 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post


No worries; glad it helps. I should add that technically, the Havana is labelled as a UK 35 rather than a 34. However, I think this is more technicality rather than anything else, as both the Napoli and the Havana are both also labelled as EU 44 and the Napoli is labelled as a UK 34. And I was an EU44/UK34 in the Soho too. So I think that might just a quirk of how Havana sizes are labelled within the UK. But I suppose worth mentioning so you have all the facts.

Holdfast -- could you tell us the shoulder measurement across the back that you usually wear? Do these Napoli/Havana suits measure close to the measurements given on the SS website?
post #2519 of 7515
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnin22 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post


No worries; glad it helps. I should add that technically, the Havana is labelled as a UK 35 rather than a 34. However, I think this is more technicality rather than anything else, as both the Napoli and the Havana are both also labelled as EU 44 and the Napoli is labelled as a UK 34. And I was an EU44/UK34 in the Soho too. So I think that might just a quirk of how Havana sizes are labelled within the UK. But I suppose worth mentioning so you have all the facts.

Holdfast -- could you tell us the shoulder measurement across the back that you usually wear? Do these Napoli/Havana suits measure close to the measurements given on the SS website?

 

The shoulder measurements listed on their site are off; judging by their diagrams, I think they must measure along the actual shoulder line (possibly even including the shoulder "puff" too), rather than the more usual measurement of straight horizontally across the back from seam to seam at the top. Theirs is a terrible way to measure as you get different results with different shoulder treatments across the range, but that apparent variance won't affect how it fits across your shoulders (only how it looks as a shoulder line). When worn, I found all their size 34 across their range fit me consistently well across the shouders (of course, they varied in other respects and only the Soho, Havana and Napoli cuts worked well for me throughout the fit). Oh, and I just tried out their online size advisor... way off, by as much as two sizes!

 

But if I use the more standard measuring technique, all my jackets (SS & otherwise) have (approximately) the same shoulder measurement of a smidgen under 17". For example, that's SS 34(EU44), BB0 BBBF, 36(EU46) drop 8 Z Zegna, and my MTM & bespoke stuff too.

post #2520 of 7515

Best way to measure shoulder width is to consider whether you'd like a "classic" fit or "euro" or modern/slim/whatever fit first...

 

Usually up to 44 chest is the safest candidate for slim fit.

 

So, a 40 chest in a classic fit would usually have a 19.25" shoulder width. In slim fit, it would be about 18". You have everything inbetween for wiggle room. You go up or down .25" at each size. So, if you have a 41.25 chest, you think to yourself that for a classic fit you'd need a 19.5" point to point or 18.25" slim fit. All based on how you are built or what you prefer. You use that general rule of thumb up or down. SO...if you were a 33" chest built like a child, you'd subtract .25" from either 19.25" or 18" depending on preference until you get to your size. In the case of a 33" preferring a slim fit, you'd go down to 16.25" because you're losing .25" per size OR 1.75" total. If you prefer classic, you'd go to 17.5" point to point.

Understand???

What if you're a 45" chest? At that point, you should stay classic cuz slim is risky beyond a 44. SO...add .25" for every size beyond a 40. That equals 1.25".  Added to 19.25" That's either gonna be 20.5" or somewhere close to that (+/- .25") depending on prominent or not prominent chest or blades. If you don't understand, find a good tailor to explain. If you went slim at that size, you'd add .25" per size on top of 18". That would come out to 19.25" ish. And it would be the most disgusting fitting jacket ever unless you're built like a bird in the chest and blades...and then it might gape in the collar because if you're that narrow at the shoulders, you're probably very square.

The male body is really quite predictable.

You either need to know your body or you need a good tailor to tell you what would work best for your shape. Too narrow and you will get divots or collar gapping. Too wide and you'll get shoulders that fall off yours, a chest fit that is quite drapey, and/or disproportionate shoulder to waist ratio.
 

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