I have been a longtime beneficiary of all of the advice on these forums and am excited to contribute for the first time.
I have been spending quite a bit of time and effort looking for a plain navy suit. I am hoping to wear this suit at my wedding and then at many occasions after. I do not wear a suit daily or even weekly so durability is not as high on the priority list as straight up bad ass fasion. As per advice on the forums, I have been trying to stay patient and find the perfect suit.
Point of reference: I am 5'10'' and weigh 170lbs.
My first effort in finding this suit was the Ludlow from J.Crew. I used quite a few sportcoats from J.Crew but do not own any suiting. I ordered in my usual J.Crew Sizes: 38s and 31X30 in the slim trousers. When the suit arrived it has cut way too tight. I could fit into both items but the trousers were too tight, the lapels bowed significantly, and there was significant pull across the back (sorry, no pics). I returned and ordered 40s and 32X20. The pants fit well the second time around but the jacket was too large.
After a bit more research, I decided that I would try a Suitsupply London fit. I followed the Suitsupply sizing advice and ordered a 38r. I decided on the London because I definitely like the traditional English tailored look and a lower button stance. When I received the suit, I could immediately appreciate the attention to detail and the quality in the garment. I was impressed. Unfortunately, the suit just didn't do it for me. You can see the pics below. I think the shoulders of the jacket fit but it could have been cut trimmer around the midsection and the sleeves would need to be altered (more difficult due to the functioning button holes). The pants needed some serious work. The waist (supposedly a 32 but I would guess 35) needed to be taken in. The legs also needed to be taken in and tailored. Of course, hemming would have been necessary.
More than the fit, I just thought the suit was not for me. It was was more Tom Ford than Thom Browne (I guess I lean a little more toward the undersized, minimal style). The lapels were relatively wide. The suit was cut longer. This type of cut seems to be consistent across the different Suitsupply cuts. I recognize the most of these criticisms (other that the lapels) can be tailored away (at significant costs) but eventually I came to the conclusion that turning this suit into what I was looking for would be way harder than just finding a different suit that met my personal aesthetic.
So... I actually, recently found I suit that I am really excited about but I am scared to share it with the community. At the insistence of my mother and other family friends, I went to Nordstrom's. I went with low expectations. I knew many of their "designer" products were low quality and high priced. However, the first suit that I tried on was perfect. It was a Hugo Boss in a size 38s. Yes, it was fused. Yes, it was not 100% wool. But, it fits incredibly well and I feel like a million bucks in it - which is exactly how you are supposed to feel when you put on the right suit.
The pic above is from the store (sorry about the lighting and I know those shoes are inappropriate). The pants are currently being hemmed. If you guys want I can post pictures once I get the suit back.
Thanks for letting me share my story. I hope it helps others on their journey to find the right suit. As far as morals to the story, I would say 1) Suitsupply is high quality stuff but has a powerful look that isn't for everyone and 2) it never hurts to take a look ... you never know what you may find.