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Suitsupply NYC - Page 881

post #13201 of 13736
While I don't find the Napoli's button stance to be prohibitively high, I do regret the passing of the York, which was essentially the Napoli with a lower stance. I managed to purchase the very last York that SuSu had in stock. Customer service tried to sell me on the idea that the Athletic was virtually identical, but eventually admitted that, actually, it was quite different.
post #13202 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael81 View Post
 

Surely that is a universal problem, though? 

 

Also a word on button stances. The Havana button stance is quite high due to its short length. The Napoli button stance is also rather high. This is a good reason to avoid it in my opinion. Washingtons, Lazios and Siennas have similar button stances. It turns out the athletic fit has the lowest button stance, but it also has low arm-holes and is cut very full. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psmith View Post

While I don't find the Napoli's button stance to be prohibitively high, I do regret the passing of the York, which was essentially the Napoli with a lower stance. I managed to purchase the very last York that SuSu had in stock. Customer service tried to sell me on the idea that the Athletic was virtually identical, but eventually admitted that, actually, it was quite different.

 

Would it be possible to have an idea on your heights, weights and body type?

 

I read here, quite often, that this button stance is this, that Havana 38US/48EU is short, the Lazio is slim and so on. I get home, look at the SuSu suits I have and completely disagree.

 

I'm 1,84m, weight 75kg and have an "athletic" build. The 38US/48UK is spot on the shoulder, the arm is good length allowing to show some cotton, the back covers my behind nicely. The trousers need cuffing and take in the waist.

 

I have Lazio, Sienna, Havana and Hudson.

 

The button stance, that important suit feature, is probably on top of my navel, or 1 to 2 cms above at the most. The shape of the jacket makes a damn fine "V" opening.

 

 

 

 

Picture not mine, it's from a fellow SFer. It's a Sienna. Lower button stance than this? Where?

 

GOing like this, one day it's going to be fashionable having the 1st button on top the trousers zipper :)

 

By the way, don't judge the suits by looking at the models on the site. They should be wearing 2 sizes up...


Edited by mbaltazar - 8/26/16 at 4:10am
post #13203 of 13736

@Michael81  thank you for the reply. I'm debating whether to bid on a 48S on eBay as that is my size in the Napoli. Ends in a couple hours and it's at a great price.

post #13204 of 13736

@sarteaga, you're welcome. 

 

@mbaltazar, I'm 1.88, 77 kg's. So a reasonably similar build to you, although on the slim-athletic continuum, I tend towards slim. For reference, here I am in my 94 (48L) Sienna. The sleeves and trousers were shortened, and I foolishly had the jacket shortened by an inch or so as well. It is a terrible photo:

 

 

It's easy to disagree with these sorts of claims because at the end of the day, fit is very personal. For me, the Sienna and Washington fit best off the rack. Conversely, the Lazio is not slim at all and the Havana hangs off me like a bag. It's all relative. Just experiment and stick with what works best for you. 

 

If the button stance on your jackets is at your navel, that's good. I assume the guy in that photo is short. Or at least, shorter than you and me. 

post #13205 of 13736

Here's my new wool/mohair Washington. It's beautiful - one of the best shades of blue I have in my wardrobe now. The sizing is weird - I sized up to a 46 and went down to a regular as it already has longer sleeves/jacket - but it fits me perfectly. I'm 6'3 for reference.

 

Trousers are currently off being hemmed, but here's a quick pic:

 

 

post #13206 of 13736
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael81 View Post
 

@sarteaga, you're welcome. 

 

@mbaltazar, I'm 1.88, 77 kg's. So a reasonably similar build to you, although on the slim-athletic continuum, I tend towards slim. For reference, here I am in my 94 (48L) Sienna. The sleeves and trousers were shortened, and I foolishly had the jacket shortened by an inch or so as well. It is a terrible photo:

 

 

It's easy to disagree with these sorts of claims because at the end of the day, fit is very personal. For me, the Sienna and Washington fit best off the rack. Conversely, the Lazio is not slim at all and the Havana hangs off me like a bag. It's all relative. Just experiment and stick with what works best for you. 

 

If the button stance on your jackets is at your navel, that's good. I assume the guy in that photo is short. Or at least, shorter than you and me. 

 

 

Michael81, that where I wanted to get: Fit is Personal. I like the way this Sienna 94 (48L) suit you. It's clean. I wouldn't have shortened the jacket. The rest is pretty good. BUT, if you enjoy a shorter jacket, fine with me. You're tall and slim no problem, but you couldn't do it if you were short and rounder. It's life, we can't do nothing about it...

 

I don't have any picture of me, but I'm 4cm shorted than you the rest is probably very similar.

 

I find the Lazio is the slimmest I can take, It's almost "perfect" off the rack. When I received the Havana, I was prepared to return it after trying it on. All the reviews are like "contemporary cut, slim and short for a modern look, very slim trousers". I thought these are leggings with a girly short jacket... wrong... It feels a bit larger than the Lazio, because of the unstructured shoulder, very comfortable and the jacket is not short at all. It's a keeper, going to the tailor tomorrow.

 

Now, it also comes to how you like to feel your clothes. I'm a bit tired of reading opinions of some bloggers and other "experts" that look like sausages in suits writing about fit and style. And people follow them! Don't these guys have mirrors?

 

Even SuSu models look off. The photo shoot production is magnificent, the clothes are good, but heck, what fit?

Find a good fit in one of those pics, one with no "dreaded X", correct jacket length and arm length. One can hardly find one...

 

Your fit is good, 2 cms lower button stance? Would it really make a visual impact, or any difference? Honestly, I don't think so.

post #13207 of 13736
Fit isn't really personal. There is good fit and there is bad fit. That jacket is too short and the buttoning point to high. Correcting both would make a significant visual improvement.
post #13208 of 13736
I think we're talking about slightly different things. I meant the same model can look quite different on different people. In that sense fit is very personal. I agree with you that 'good' fit in the sense you are talking about is less flexible.

The problem with that photo is that the perspective is screwed up. It looks better in reality. But I do regret chopping it. It is quite short now, and I will probably replace it.
post #13209 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbaltazar View Post

Yep. A Sales Assistant told my the "full" release would be Friday. If this is it, my wallet thanks them :-)

Seems like the "full" release simply means the ad campaign being uploaded on their website, as there don't seem to be (at least accessing from Italy) any new items. Shame, I will be curious to see what comes up in the following weeks. I really need a dark grey wool suit, and the Traveller Havana would be perfect, but the 379 euro price tag kills it for me...
post #13210 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidazio View Post

Seems like the "full" release simply means the ad campaign being uploaded on their website, as there don't seem to be (at least accessing from Italy) any new items. Shame, I will be curious to see what comes up in the following weeks. I really need a dark grey wool suit, and the Traveller Havana would be perfect, but the 379 euro price tag kills it for me...

Accessing from Portugal it's the same. I also don't see new items. Perhaps a coat or two, but that's it...
I'm also looking for a dark grey suit, but the ones they have are from past seasons collections...
post #13211 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael81 View Post

I think we're talking about slightly different things. I meant the same model can look quite different on different people. In that sense fit is very personal. I agree with you that 'good' fit in the sense you are talking about is less flexible.

The problem with that photo is that the perspective is screwed up. It looks better in reality. But I do regret chopping it. It is quite short now, and I will probably replace it.


Photos taken from up top vs from below certainly result in a completely different look. However, do you find the thighs on the Susu trousers tight? All that pulling I see on your right leg make those trousers appear to be super tight.

post #13212 of 13736
Well spotted. I have this problem with all RTW stuff. I do a lot of squatting and deadlifting so my thighs are pretty large relative to my waist. I would definitely prefer a roomier thigh.
post #13213 of 13736
Hi all. I need your help.

I need to pick up couple of suits in staple colors, and am leaning towards SS Purple Label. I need to decide between Lazio and Napoli. Which one of theae offers less padded shoulders? If I remember correctly from my last visit to the store, Napoli had significant amount of padding. i tried on the La Spalla and I really liked the natural shoulders, but I do not want to dish out $1k for a suit.

Thanks!
post #13214 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by cc808314 View Post

Hi all. I need your help.

I need to pick up couple of suits in staple colors, and am leaning towards SS Purple Label. I need to decide between Lazio and Napoli. Which one of theae offers less padded shoulders? If I remember correctly from my last visit to the store, Napoli had significant amount of padding. i tried on the La Spalla and I really liked the natural shoulders, but I do not want to dish out $1k for a suit.

Thanks!

 

I own a couple of Lazios but no Napoli.  In any event, SS describes both as having a "lightly padded shoulder."

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #13215 of 13736
Quote:
Originally Posted by cc808314 View Post

Hi all. I need your help.

I need to pick up couple of suits in staple colors, and am leaning towards SS Purple Label. I need to decide between Lazio and Napoli. Which one of theae offers less padded shoulders? If I remember correctly from my last visit to the store, Napoli had significant amount of padding. i tried on the La Spalla and I really liked the natural shoulders, but I do not want to dish out $1k for a suit.
Thanks!

I believe both are slightly padded. Napoli is roomier in the chest area, so it suits you better if you have broad shoulders. Note that the Napoli trousers are, compared to the upper, quite slim.

I, personally think Lazio is a great compromise between fit, quality and price.

You can also try a Sienna which has a natural shoulder and it's cheaper than La Spalla, or the Havana if you can get away with a "not so formal" suit.
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