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Suitsupply NYC - Page 712

post #10666 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironballs View Post

Not suits. The legs are too slim. You could try the Havana or Napoli separates and get trousers one size larger than the accompanying jacket. In Jackets you may have luck with the Havana.

The jackets won't work if you have a large midsection though. Only if most of your, er, extra, weight is below or above your waist.

+1. I do Olympic lifting and had to start purchasing separates due to my quads. I almost exclusively use SuSu for jackets, I find that all of the jackets work pretty well for my bulky-ish upper body, but the Washington jackets are definitely snug against my arms and lats.

If you are a really difficult fit, I'd consider MTM. I've heard great things about Kent Wang, I'm planning on trying him out when I'm financially able.
post #10667 of 13747
Got another big batch of clothes in today. Some observations:

* About 1 in 10 jackets are off-sized (I've bought and kept a ton). So they're not perfectly consistent, but with the good return policy, free shipping, etc, it's worth a gamble.

* Love thick pearl buttons on new Jort shirts. Thin ones from last year cheapened the shirt. Also this new shirt is quite shorter than previous (other fit aspects normal).

* Double cuffs are seriously wide. 26cm on a 38/15 shirt. Pretty much stretching the cuffs of their own jackets.... considering returning this one. Would prefer 24cm or less

* Nice touch to widen one cuff to accomodate wristwatch. Except they assume all are left-wrist wearers

* Linen sweater oversized compared to last year. (There goes that sizing issue again).



Checked all my standalone and suit trousers , from cotton to worsted to various flannel wools bought over many consecutive seasons....none exhibit any accelerated wear around crotch area.
post #10668 of 13747
what's the lapel width for the jort?
post #10669 of 13747

Wow, the Jort jackets for F/W are expensive. Is that what happens in the winter ($899 versus $599)?

post #10670 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Wow, the Jort jackets for F/W are expensive. Is that what happens in the winter ($899 versus $599)?

Nope, just the SuSu money grab.
post #10671 of 13747
Yeah I noticed that too. For that money you just buy an Eidos.
post #10672 of 13747

Yes, exactly. NMWA has some great Eidos jackets this year at $995 or so, made in Italy of fabrics from similar mills and I think the NMWA Eidos cut is actually nicer than the Jort (shoulders are more extended, lapels a touch wider, button stance a touch lower). With the SF discount, NMWA Eidos comes to the same price essentially. At that point, buy the Eidos and support a SF connected small business (NMWA).

 

I like the Jort, certainly when it was $300 cheaper than it is priced now. Oh well...

post #10673 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Yes, exactly. NMWA has some great Eidos jackets this year at $995 or so, made in Italy of fabrics from similar mills and I think the NMWA Eidos cut is actually nicer than the Jort (shoulders are more extended, lapels a touch wider, button stance a touch lower). With the SF discount, NMWA Eidos comes to the same price essentially. At that point, buy the Eidos and support a SF connected small business (NMWA).

I like the Jort, certainly when it was $300 cheaper than it is priced now. Oh well...

Why don't you guys write SuitSupply with that comment? If they realize that they're driving away core customers, they might change their pricing policy.
post #10674 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


Why don't you guys write SuitSupply with that comment? If they realize that they're driving away core customers, they might change their pricing policy.

 

I wonder how many people cross shop SS with NMWA though. But the real question is exactly what percentage of Suitsupply's sales actually come from active SF users? I doubt SF has enough influence to change their policies like they did with Allen Edmonds heheheh.

 

EDIT: I just realized those $899 Jort jackets are "Pure Cashmere". Historically SS always marks up their cashmere fabrics over traditional wool.

post #10675 of 13747

All very nice suits.

 

I am also a Jort lover.  This is my second year buying them and I also just got the grey check.

 

One thing I've noticed over the year, and I am wondering if anyone else noticed this too.  The stores carry very few Jorts (in fact, the Madison Ave store does not have ANY A/W line Jorts yet - and I find tnat spectacularly perplexing) and the sales staff isnt even remotely interested in selling them - and IMO never have been.  If I ask about Jorts, they'll invesitably guide me to the LaSpalla, which is also a full canvased and very nice suit too - I might add.  But that's not my point. Jort is definately marked differently and set apart from the other suits to some degree.  Has anyone else noticed this?  I've purchased maybe 9 Yorts over the summer and one this fall, and I've received all except one online.  I go to the store (SOHO and Mad Ave) very frequently, as I have my suits delivered to Madison Ave location for pick -up.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Also, I've noticed too that my grey check is a bit smaller than the others I've purchaed.  I attributed to weight gain, but I'll make a comparison when I get home today.

 

I've been a little dissapointed in the A/W Jort line.  The first 3 or 4 I got were 3-2 rolls and I all the rest have been two buttons.  I know it's expensive to make a 3-2 button suit as it has to be done by hand, but that's what was exceptional about the Jorts. I also buy Orazio Luciano and Caruso, Stile Latino, Sartorio Napoli, and other Neopolitan syle suits and I find the Jort construction to be very well made in comparison, but loosing the 3-2 roll is a major Neopolitan feature the loss of which makes me sad. I wish they bring it back.

post #10676 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Chu View Post

All very nice suits.

I've been a little dissapointed in the A/W Jort line.  The first 3 or 4 I got were 3-2 rolls and I all the rest have been two buttons.  I know it's expensive to make a 3-2 button suit as it has to be done by hand, but that's what was exceptional about the Jorts. I also buy Orazio Luciano and Caruso, Stile Latino, Sartorio Napoli, and other Neopolitan syle suits and I find the Jort construction to be very well made in comparison, but loosing the 3-2 roll is a major Neopolitan feature the loss of which makes me sad. I wish they bring it back.

aren't the button holes for jort machine finished? I agree with your sentiments, a 3r2 on a rtw full canvassed isn't easy to come by nowadays. I would've loved it on the PoW check.
post #10677 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

aren't the button holes for jort machine finished? 

 

Yes.

post #10678 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

Yes.


Yes, but........the top button in a 3-2 roll would be hand-finished.  My (very limited) understanding is that it has to be made in-side out, which makes sense b/c when I look at all my 3-2s the reverse side of the button hole is the better side, but since that top button is always supposed to be open, never buttoned, that's the side you want to look the best - the reverse side.  The machine can do the two buttons, but the third is hand finished.  

 

I heard Rubinacci's son say this on a You Tube video.  His English isn't perfect, so when he said it has to be made "upside down" it took me a while to figure out he probably meant to say "in-side out".  Of course, I could be wrong and also different houses could do different things, but that's the proper way to do it.  My three button Jorts and Orazio Lucianos are like that.  I just took a look.

 

But Murlsquirl is the person I go to when I have these questions, so I completely defer to him.   

post #10679 of 13747
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Chu View Post
 


Yes, but........the top button in a 3-2 roll would be hand-finished.  My (very limited) understanding is that it has to be made in-side out

 

on what basis do you say the top buttonhole for a Jort is actually hand finished? just because it's inside out, it doesn't necessarily follow that it's done by hand.. 

post #10680 of 13747
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I'll likely order this one. First time to try a Havana, not too sure about the unstructured construction as I have a bit sloped shoulders. Was also considering a Washington, of which I enjoy the structured shoulders very much, but I really dislike the wide peaked lapels for a casual jacket.
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