The fitting models arrived on Tuesday.
I notice that some forum members complain about how their shoes are sometimes in a shoe box wrapped with layers of packing tape. Rest assured that Jon uses kraft paper to wrap the box.
(I've had two pairs of shoes delivered to me in shoeboxes wrapped in packing tape. I thought the shoes were well-protected and the tape both discouraged inspection and severely devalued the shoes in the custom agent's eyes.)
I ordered austerity brogues.
Now, please keep in mind that these models represent a work in progress. The final shoes
will look much better. Input at the fitting stage is very important to the finished shoes in both fit and style.
The models look blobby but they fit better than any pair of shoes I own. It's almost like walking with no shoes on. The slightly asymmetric toes may be due to a difference in toe stiffeners as Jon spends less time on the models than the actual shoes.
This is a view of the left shoe from the left. The silver lines represent improvements to the pattern (i.e., they indicate where the lines
will be).
This is a right side view.
Jon's instructions were these.
Quote:
Wear the type of sock you will want to wear with the finished shoes. Using a shoe horn slip the shoe on and tie the laces. Stand up, walk around a bit. It is best to have an assistant help with marking.
1. With you standing comfortably, have your assistant mark the length of your foot at the big toe.
2. Next have them mark on the side of the model the centre of your ball joint. They should use their finger to locate this.
3. Have your assistant mark on the tongue along each side of the lace facings to indicate how far apart the laces are.
4. Now check your ankle bones. Are they rubbing at all on the topline of the shoe? If so, have your assistant make a vertical line on the model to indicate where the center of this bone is, then cross it with a horizontal line to indicate the underside of this bony prominence.
5. If you feel any part of the shoe is uncomfortable, mark this on the model. For example if any of your toes are pushing excessively against the side of the model, mark this. If you have any other general observations about the fit, make a note and send this along with the fitting models when you return them.
Jon provided a special pen for marking leather.
I thought I could mark the shoes myself, but I looked for an assistant anyways. I asked a pretty blonde who's quite handy with a tape measure, who demurred, then asked my father, who couldn't tell the spots that needed to be marked. In the end, I marked the shoes myself. (Good thing I'm flexible.)
(I could have asked a friend, but none shared my interest in shoes and clothing, and would probably think me crazy for ordering bespoke shoes. I'd rather have someone who cared about clothing doing the job.)
I wore wool dress socks in year-round weight with the models and made the marks. Here is a picture of a marked model:
I also made the following notes:
1) There was a bit of a gap between the lace facings on the left shoe, but none on the right. That might cause a problem for the right shoe after it had stretched. The right shoe also had a gap on the right.
Left shoe:
Right shoe:
2) The right ankle bone easily cleared the topline of the shoe, but the bottom of the left ankle bone is a bit close and might rub against the final shoe.
3) The shoes might not be creasing quite right, especially the right shoe. The tip of the wing is bent by the crease.
4) The cork (?) outsole clearly showed the ball of my foot.
5) As for looks, I wanted a more refined shape. I felt the toes needed to be pointier and the waist narrower. I took a picture of the model alongside an Edward Green Elmsley to illustrate my point. The toe might need to be pointier than Elmsley's, actually, but Elmsley's shape would be a very good start. Even though a shoe's fit and its looks are supposedly separate, I'm not sure what shape can be achieved with my current last.
Jon also presented me with two choices for edge treatment. The swatches were done using the chocolate brown calf leather I selected. (I mention the colour because my pictures make them look black.)
Gimped edge:
Plain edge:
I'm going with the plain edge.
I'm sending Jon these and other comments along with lots of pictures. When he has all the info he needs, I'll return the fitting models so he can proceed with the final shoes.
As with MTM and bespoke clothing, I don't expect the first order to meet all my expectations. This is a process, and it will take more than one try to get everything right for both of us. I'm already thinking about my next order.
