I'm always amazed by how popular Goth-Futurist brands (Rick Owens, Julius, etc.) remain on this board particularly for S/S, when they seem especially uncomfortably unwearable since the last thing you'd want in 90 degs in any city is a second skin, however paper thin and buttery soft... But I do think those designers and their patrons should be commended for bucking the pervading, Italian peacock trend with some unique, consistent aesthetic. That said, I was really impressed by Viktor & Rolf, in whom I haven't been interested in years and years. LV was great but typically fairly basic stuff distinguished by great styling, for which I don't know if anyone sensible (even with the means) would pay when it could be had cheaper from smaller, artisan (Italian) brands. I was also surprised by how much I liked Valentino; the khakis paired with the vibrant colors it reminded me of old Jil Sander stuff. Also, they keep calling this Umit Bennan's 'debut' show for Trussardi but didn't they just hire him 2 weeks back? Wasn't he just styling stuff designed by Milan Vukmirovic?