Engineered Garments FW 11

burningbright said:

You and I are in the same boat. I'm a US 44L and while the sleeve length always fits, EG's pieces are very inconsistent with what they consider to be an XL. Some blazers and vests measure 23 inches across the chest (ideal for a blazer) while some only measure 21 or 22. It's maddening.

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Exactly, I totally agree.
My brother is pattern maker and say to me that EG are greatly and superb tailored, but the 22 inch that often is an XL are more correct as L than a XL... so it's a size less for the chest...!



S-NMBR said:

Exactly, I totally agree.
My brother is pattern maker and say to me that EG are greatly and superb tailored, but the 22 inch that often is an XL are more correct as L than a XL... so it's a size less for the chest...!

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Don't get me wrong, I get that a Japanese XL is different than a US/Euro XL; I respect that, but just because the designer is Japanese doesn't mean they need to be sized strictly for Japanese people. This is even more baffling because from what I read above in that interview with Daiki, their primary market is now people groups who are typically considered larger than Japanese people. Hell, even if it means creating an XXL size, I'll take it and bear the humiliation of being considered a double XL *****, just offer some pieces that will fit.

burningbright said:

Don't get me wrong, I get that a Japanese XL is different than a US/Euro XL; I respect that, but just because the designer is Japanese doesn't mean they need to be sized strictly for Japanese people.

This is even more baffling because from what I read above in that interview with Daiki, their primary market is now people groups who are typically considered larger than Japanese people. Hell, even if it means creating an XXL size, I'll take it and bear the humiliation of being considered a double XL *****, just offer some pieces that will fit.

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+1

I'm ready to be humiliated too!



But what I think is that Daiky make an XL with the same proportions that is using right now... the lenght of the sleeve will be to long.

So, in my honest opinion, a little bit of room in chest, will be solve the problem... for example the fit of Woolrich Woolen Mills, seems to be little bit more proportioned: I have a vest of WWM that is XL and fit my chest perfectly.

Engineered Garments' sizes have nothing to do at all with Japanese sizing. Their stuff is made in the US for "western" body sizes, and the Japanese I know always struggle with the sleeve lengths because the EG sleeves are not tailored to the average Japanese body measurements.

Having said that, I agree that the sizing is inconsistent over seasons, which is one of the few things EG can't seem to get right. Waist sizes for pants are all over the place, too.

I find that the EG look doesn't work for big sizes anyway. It works much better on itty-bitty men (no offense) who have size M or below than on muscular or big guys.

I get a sense that Daiki takes his own body as the standard to make the clothes look good on. Nobody pulls EG off better than this guy.

Daiki is not a little guy. He's thin, but not small. Someone told me at some point (Jian?) that one of the guys in the lookbooks is the fit model for most EG and he has disproportionately long arms, hence the sleeve length on jackets. Haven't exactly fact checked that, tho.



HuggyGiraffe said:

Engineered Garments' sizes have nothing to do at all with Japanese sizing. Their stuff is made in the US for "western" body sizes, and the Japanese I know always struggle with the sleeve lengths because the EG sleeves are not tailored to the average Japanese body measurements.

Having said that, I agree that the sizing is inconsistent over seasons, which is one of the few things EG can't seem to get right. Waist sizes for pants are all over the place, too.

I find that the EG look doesn't work for big sizes anyway. It works much better on itty-bitty men (no offense) who have size M or below than on muscular or big guys.

I get a sense that Daiki takes his own body as the standard to make the clothes look good on. Nobody pulls EG off better than this guy.

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I think that's a bit of a specious argument. Since much of his inspiration is drawn from heritage wear, that's like saying there were no large guys in the past who wore vests, blazers, and trousers. Or are you saying that the detailing of the garments isn't suitable for larger guys, because there's nothing revolutionary about the details and touches he uses. I mean a Bedford jacket is just a blazer with four pockets. How does that exclude somebody with a 44 chest from wearing that?

And keep in mind I'm excluding EG's shirting from this statement, which actually fits, strangely enough. I'm speaking more towards his vests, blazers and sometimes trousers. Sure, he adds a little bit of a modern flare to his blazers and vests, but nothing such to the point where a guy over 6 feet tall and 200 lbs couldn't pull off.

I'm not looking to re-create Daiki's look; you're not gonna find me wearing an entire EG ensemble with breeches and leg warmers while swinging from Daiki's nuts. I just want a blazer or a vest that fits that I can wear with some denim and I don't think somebody of my size who takes care of themselves should be excluded from that.

Not trying to start a slap fight here, just wondering why EG hasn't addressed this along with their sizing inconsistencies.

That said, I'm still going to try and take a chance with the khaki corduroy Bedford.

Just for the record, EG fits big guys. I'm 6'2" tall not overweight by any means,185lbs and I wear a M shirt and a M-L jacket. It depends more on your morphology than it does on simple standards of height and weight. Besides, has anyone here ever heard of a tailor? I say this tongue and cheek of course, but seriously I alter EG pieces all the time if something isn't quite right. Its just the nature of anything short of M to M, than things need to be adjusted if one is particularly choosy.

I think that what say burningbright is correct, sorry for my bad English, but I think we are saying about the same and I agree totally with him!
There's something strange in the fit of chest of some EG jackets or vests...
I don't think this is because they are intended for japanese guys or slim guys at all... I think is something we in Italy are usually calling "vestibilità" (I don't know in English) this is a quote you add to the regular table of chest to give more room or less room.
So, my brother tell me that they add very very low amount to the chest, probably to have a slime and slender line or shapes... this way, the problem is that people over a M or L size, that is not so slim, may have problem... OK, JRider is correct, it depends also from the morfology.

Pants are strange too, as somebody have write before, now I'm wearing the Workaday Fatigue in reversed sateen, size L, that is intended as 36 inch (according The Bureau table of Fittings) and I find they are strange... I'm for sure a 36 inch, no doubt: but I can't close the upper button...!! And the leg, is so wide... more than all the pics I see of guys wearing Fatigue in reverse sateen in this forum probably in S or XS.

So, what I can say is that EG is a wonderful product, that I love at all, Daiky have perfectly remodeled the utility and workwear in a new form, I miss just few centimeters more in the chest to let the people little bigger than me to wear the jackets, the trousers and so on with a bit of comfort, as you can see in the picture of the look book, where those guys, very thin are wearing...

But my totally respect is for the designer, because I'm sure that in his mind this respect a concept, and I will respect this.

Via Dice&Dice, On the Ground, Kink, Explorer

Desert Pants (Grey WP Flannel and Olive Wool Serge)













Cambridge Pants (Wool Flannel)









FWK Rose Printed Dress



FWK Long BD Shirt







Zip Hoody (French Jersey Polka Dot)



Styling



timpoblete said:

Via Dice&Dice, On the Ground, Kink, Explorer

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So they won't cater to guys with broad chests, but child-bearing hips are OK?

About 4-5 years ago EG was considered very big in sizing. Pieces from around 2006 and before I could fit in a small easily, but now they've slimmed it down a little bit, which is due to the fact that Daiki is loosing weight and he makes it to fit himself (as do some other designers, such as the guy that does BoO). Sizing runs all over the place, from piece to piece, from fabric to fabric. One year they had made the Norfolk Jacket in some wool which was sized correctly, but in the same season they made it in a melton wool, where the XL was too small to fit even a medium. This may have been due to the pre-washing that they do to get rid of all the shrinkage prior to sending them out to the shops.

Anyways, regarding the XXL, if there is enough demand from certain stockists for that size then it can be done. XS couldn't be found anywhere in North America for the longest time, but demand has brought it around and several spots now carry it (such as Blake?). I suppose if you guys bug the different shops enough they will request the larger sizes, which EG will eventually have to oblige.

timpoblete said:

About 4-5 years ago EG was considered very big in sizing. Pieces from around 2006 and before I could fit in a small easily, but now they've slimmed it down a little bit, which is due to the fact that Daiki is loosing weight and he makes it to fit himself (as do some other designers, such as the guy that does BoO). Sizing runs all over the place, from piece to piece, from fabric to fabric. One year they had made the Norfolk Jacket in some wool which was sized correctly, but in the same season they made it in a melton wool, where the XL was too small to fit even a medium. This may have been due to the pre-washing that they do to get rid of all the shrinkage prior to sending them out to the shops.

Anyways, regarding the XXL, if there is enough demand from certain stockists for that size then it can be done. XS couldn't be found anywhere in North America for the longest time, but demand has brought it around and several spots now carry it (such as Blake?). I suppose if you guys bug the different shops enough they will request the larger sizes, which EG will eventually have to oblige.

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Many Thanks Timpoblete for this explication, I appreciate it and nowI understand better the "problem" of sizing

Concerning XXL I hope they can have some interest to offer to us, especially because they are growing in EU and in USA from what I read in the interview, and there is need also of some bigger size too here. I still think that if Daiky want to go for the XXL, must be care of the sleeve lenght that are so longer also in the L, that I normally wear.

By the way, I appreciate that we have talkin and discuss about the sizing, just because not all the people are XS and S!

Again Thanks!

where do i get this?

Plaid poplin tab collar shirt via Kink Nagoya:



S-NMBR said:

By the way, I appreciate that we have talkin and discuss about the sizing, just because not all the people are XS and S!

Again Thanks!

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really? thats news to me ...