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Solito Thread - Page 39

post #571 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lee Jin Yi View Post
 


No I didn't, I decided to play it cool cos at the end of the day, I do want the original jacket fixed. 

 

I've bought my own fabric now, and am deciding if I should still let Solito make it up. We'll see. 

 

Who do you use now, since you aren't a customer of Solito anymore? 

 

I can only encourage you to try new tailors, especially if from pricing point it's similar or less. If price is higher and you are quite happy with your current tailor then you should think twice before trying a new tailor.

I tried many tailors in Naples and some in Sicily and finally ended up choosing a tailor in Sicily. He's doing a very well fitting jacket (much better than any Napolitan tailor i've tried) and his techinical skills are beyond any tailor i've ever seen. He has few clients so he's really client focused.

post #572 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post

I can only encourage you to try new tailors, especially if from pricing point it's similar or less. If price is higher and you are quite happy with your current tailor then you should think twice before trying a new tailor.
I tried many tailors in Naples and some in Sicily and finally ended up choosing a tailor in Sicily. He's doing a very well fitting jacket (much better than any Napolitan tailor i've tried) and his techinical skills are beyond any tailor i've ever seen. He has few clients so he's really client focused.

can you share the tailor contact information?
post #573 of 616

So, just back from my trip to naples! 

 

I took my jacket back to Solito to have it fixed, and in all fairness, he agreed to fix it although I did not make a new jacket with him. We did a fitting for the alteration and the back still wasn't clean. I think my drop shoulders are pretty severe:/ Luigi promised to have it fixed and he will bring it to London for me in July. Sig. Gennaro was nice and polite as ever. Its hard not to like him! 

 

I brought a reddish/chocolate brown fabric from huddersfield with me and decided to have Ciardi make it up for me. Will write something up about them soon after I am done with my training contract applications :freeze:(I know I haven't posted the finished pictures of my Peluso suit and Panico suit either, but thats because they still have issues which need to be altered). 

 

Primer on Ciardi: 

 

Great experience with Ciardi. I have tried 4 neapolitan tailors and I would say that my experience with them is the best thus far.

 

I was actually rather hesitant on trying yet another tailor, but Renato Ciardi and Panico are good friends (as evidenced by the many pictures of them on the internet sharing a coffee together) and I figured, Panico is quite a cocky guy, any tailor he is friends with should be pretty good. 

 

So Panico and Ciardi are one of the last few direct students of the great Blasi. While Panico has that godfather-esque charisma, Ciardi reminds me more of my jolly grandfather which is a very nice feeling to have. This also meant that he was more flexible in accommodating my requests (like a slightly concave lapel shape etc) while giving proper guidance. I was very impressed by how the first fitting was really clean and almost spot on (to avoid being admonished on this thread, I will set up another thread and post pictures there when I write a post on them but this will take some time). Ciardi is as much a legend of neapolitan tailoring as Panico with much more reasonable prices, which is why I decided to have him make my jacket. Finishing wise, I think they they are on par with Panico (which is the best I have seen so far, Pino Peluso's finishing is pretty good too but his cut is more polarising). 

 

Ciardi's sons, Roberto and Enzo are great jolly people too. You don't get the "We are one of the greatest tailoring names in Italy" (even though they are) feeling. I got the feeling of two brothers and their father doing something they enjoy together while they laughed and joked. Almost like a family activity. There was only one other worker in their workshop, Don Pasquale, who has worked with Ciardi since forever. He's almost like an uncle to Roberto and Enzo. I actually spent quite long in the workshop because I wanted to see how the fabric takes its form. Senior Ciardi chalked and cut the fabric, Enzo prepared my canvas, and Pasquale did the baste stitching and ironing. Because I wanted a special sorta hunting pocket with a flap, I drew the pocket onto the jacket thereafter (unfortunately I did not get a discount from helping with the manufacturing process...:p). 

 

The brothers did tell me that they are interested in coming to London for a trunk show for those interested. I asked them how many customers they'll need to start the ball rolling and they told me 10 will do. If any of you are interested, i'll be happy to help pass the message on because I would love to have Ciardi in London often to make me more suits without the hassle of having to travel to Naples! 

post #574 of 616
I am wearing my first Solito-made suit today. Damn . . . it is good-looking.
In fairness, it might be me.
post #575 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I am wearing my first Solito-made suit today. Damn . . . it is good-looking.
In fairness, it might be me.


Please post pics!!!(: 

post #576 of 616

I'm down. Shame how shit the exchange rate however is becomming on sterlings part. When roughly are they expecting to come?

post #577 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lee Jin Yi View Post
 

 

The brothers did tell me that they are interested in coming to London for a trunk show for those interested. I asked them how many customers they'll need to start the ball rolling and they told me 10 will do. If any of you are interested, i'll be happy to help pass the message on because I would love to have Ciardi in London often to make me more suits without the hassle of having to travel to Naples! 

down for commission with icardi if he comes to london.

Also with regards to the level of finishing with solitos work, the consensus being that it is to a lower standard then many others - why is it that it remains poor? I had the chance to examine a few jackets in his london trunk show and from an untrained eye I could see the inside lining stitching being crooked/wonky but having a rustic feel. Is it just people who are uninformed thinking that this is the norm, or do they acrtively desire a kind of rustic finishing.

post #578 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post
 

down for commission with icardi if he comes to london.

Also with regards to the level of finishing with solitos work, the consensus being that it is to a lower standard then many others - why is it that it remains poor? I had the chance to examine a few jackets in his london trunk show and from an untrained eye I could see the inside lining stitching being crooked/wonky but having a rustic feel. Is it just people who are uninformed thinking that this is the norm, or do they acrtively desire a kind of rustic finishing.


Just received the Ciardi yesterday. Been super busy so haven't had the time to start a new thread and write about it yet, but here's a pic: 

 

post #579 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lee Jin Yi View Post


Just received the Ciardi yesterday. Been super busy so haven't had the time to start a new thread and write about it yet, but here's a pic: 


Looks really good front on although obviously hard to tell completely with such a picture

I know you mentioned previously about solitos style being quintessential ( despite the issues/service) how does this compare to what you were after ?
post #580 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lee Jin Yi View Post


Just received the Ciardi yesterday. Been super busy so haven't had the time to start a new thread and write about it yet, but here's a pic: 



Please tell me you didn't make a brown fresco sport coat frown.gif .
post #581 of 616
No it's a not a fresco! It's quite an interesting red/brown fabric from Huddersfield.

post #582 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lee Jin Yi View Post

No it's a not a fresco! It's quite an interesting red/brown fabric from Huddersfield.

Was the interest behind providing the cloth to save on the cost or other reasons? Where did you pick it up ?

post #583 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post


Looks really good front on although obviously hard to tell completely with such a picture

I know you mentioned previously about solitos style being quintessential ( despite the issues/service) how does this compare to what you were after ?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post
 

Was the interest behind providing the cloth to save on the cost or other reasons? Where did you pick it up ?

 

The Ciardi cut is about as classic a neapolitan cut as any other. For me, the Ciardi fits a lot better than my Solito. In fact, after I brought it back to Naples to have a third alteration and a fitting, Luigi brought it back to London this time and it got worse - the left sleeve is now completely twisted, which is very disappointing for me because I was intending on wearing it for my graduation this coming thursday. 

 

The reason I was looking for cloth is because I only go to Naples for a night, and if I go to the tailors and pick a cloth, they wouldn't be able to rush a fitting out the next day as they would have to order the cloth. Also, I was looking for a very particular shade of reddish brown for a sport coat, which is less readily available than the standard blue. 

post #584 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post
 

Was the interest behind providing the cloth to save on the cost or other reasons? Where did you pick it up ?


Forgot to say, I ordered it directly from the Huddersfield website - which is definitely not the most economical way of getting cloth, but after hunting high and low, there just wasn't any other alternative that I liked. 

post #585 of 616
That Ciardi jacket looks pretty good. Gorge is a little high for my taste, but that's just a stylistic thing.

Thanks for sharing the photo.
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