So, just back from my trip to naples!
I took my jacket back to Solito to have it fixed, and in all fairness, he agreed to fix it although I did not make a new jacket with him. We did a fitting for the alteration and the back still wasn't clean. I think my drop shoulders are pretty severe:/ Luigi promised to have it fixed and he will bring it to London for me in July. Sig. Gennaro was nice and polite as ever. Its hard not to like him!
I brought a reddish/chocolate brown fabric from huddersfield with me and decided to have Ciardi make it up for me. Will write something up about them soon after I am done with my training contract applications (I know I haven't posted the finished pictures of my Peluso suit and Panico suit either, but thats because they still have issues which need to be altered).
Primer on Ciardi:
Great experience with Ciardi. I have tried 4 neapolitan tailors and I would say that my experience with them is the best thus far.
I was actually rather hesitant on trying yet another tailor, but Renato Ciardi and Panico are good friends (as evidenced by the many pictures of them on the internet sharing a coffee together) and I figured, Panico is quite a cocky guy, any tailor he is friends with should be pretty good.
So Panico and Ciardi are one of the last few direct students of the great Blasi. While Panico has that godfather-esque charisma, Ciardi reminds me more of my jolly grandfather which is a very nice feeling to have. This also meant that he was more flexible in accommodating my requests (like a slightly concave lapel shape etc) while giving proper guidance. I was very impressed by how the first fitting was really clean and almost spot on (to avoid being admonished on this thread, I will set up another thread and post pictures there when I write a post on them but this will take some time). Ciardi is as much a legend of neapolitan tailoring as Panico with much more reasonable prices, which is why I decided to have him make my jacket. Finishing wise, I think they they are on par with Panico (which is the best I have seen so far, Pino Peluso's finishing is pretty good too but his cut is more polarising).
Ciardi's sons, Roberto and Enzo are great jolly people too. You don't get the "We are one of the greatest tailoring names in Italy" (even though they are) feeling. I got the feeling of two brothers and their father doing something they enjoy together while they laughed and joked. Almost like a family activity. There was only one other worker in their workshop, Don Pasquale, who has worked with Ciardi since forever. He's almost like an uncle to Roberto and Enzo. I actually spent quite long in the workshop because I wanted to see how the fabric takes its form. Senior Ciardi chalked and cut the fabric, Enzo prepared my canvas, and Pasquale did the baste stitching and ironing. Because I wanted a special sorta hunting pocket with a flap, I drew the pocket onto the jacket thereafter (unfortunately I did not get a discount from helping with the manufacturing process...).
The brothers did tell me that they are interested in coming to London for a trunk show for those interested. I asked them how many customers they'll need to start the ball rolling and they told me 10 will do. If any of you are interested, i'll be happy to help pass the message on because I would love to have Ciardi in London often to make me more suits without the hassle of having to travel to Naples!