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Solito Thread - Page 37

post #541 of 616
nm
Edited by soender - 4/27/16 at 11:49am
post #542 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Thanks for your insights; they're ironic (to me) and point out the randomness factor.  I have had trouble getting Mina to get me a pair of trousers that fit properly, but I am inclined to go back b/c I feel her jackets fit well with great room and drape while still being flattering...
As for me, I finally have excellent cuts for shirts and trousers, but have found that the remote-control process doesn't work so well on jackets. One in particular started out almost perfect. Instead of paying for it immediately and taking it to J Press for perfection, I let her fly it back and forth to Naples at least twice-- and now it's nowhere near as good. Probably fixable, though, if I get around to it.

In each success, there was some building off a previous winner. I wore a Charvet shirt to my measurement, and while there were a few false starts, shirts wound up being very good. And quite different from Charvet. I can't wear Neapolitan trousers, so she made a stab at copying a favorite SR pair. Still heavily accented, but after futzing with the rise and the leg taper, everything has turned out well.

[/digression to NsM.]
post #543 of 616

Got my first suit from Solito today, very happy with the result. Seems his London trips are quite busy which is good. Also, he explained the reason why my NSM trousers fit so horrible and even volunteered to fix them if I would like to. Likely to take him up on his offer next time.

post #544 of 616
Given I have some NSM trousers that I am not thrilled about and am taking back to Mina on Tuesday, could you share any insights gleaned?
post #545 of 616

Sure.

 

My problem is primarily that there is something funny going on with the waist of the pants, the pants are simply not staying where they should and when sitting down the waist is often becoming slightly folded. The explanation, which seems reasonable to me, is that the waist is made with way too soft canvas. When I'm comparing the NSM pants with other pants it is very obvious that the construction is quite different. In addition, the side adjusters have been placed too close to the front which makes the functionality limited and also the type of side adjusters are not very good (too small, normally seen on a waistcoat).

 

I'm far from a tailor so I'm taking this at face value for now as I'm quite disappointed with the NSM pants.

post #546 of 616
Thank you
post #547 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grice View Post

Sure.

My problem is primarily that there is something funny going on with the waist of the pants, the pants are simply not staying where they should and when sitting down the waist is often becoming slightly folded. The explanation, which seems reasonable to me, is that the waist is made with way too soft canvas. When I'm comparing the NSM pants with other pants it is very obvious that the construction is quite different. In addition, the side adjusters have been placed too close to the front which makes the functionality limited and also the type of side adjusters are not very good (too small, normally seen on a waistcoat).

I'm far from a tailor so I'm taking this at face value for now as I'm quite disappointed with the NSM pants.

I think there was a post about a majority of italian tailors making the pant waist extremely soft. It can be fixed.
post #548 of 616
Ironically, the extra soft waistband is exactly why I like NSM/Italian pants. Most other tailors make them too stiff.
post #549 of 616
NSM still comes to the USA for fittings? I know tailors/stylists can be competitive, but NSM was extremely critical of my first Solito sport coat without providing any specifics.
post #550 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Ironically, the extra soft waistband is exactly why I like NSM/Italian pants. Most other tailors make them too stiff.

I'm less than thrilled by that, but with a proper belt everything works pretty well.
post #551 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grice View Post
 

Got my first suit from Solito today, very happy with the result. Seems his London trips are quite busy which is good. Also, he explained the reason why my NSM trousers fit so horrible and even volunteered to fix them if I would like to. Likely to take him up on his offer next time.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

NSM still comes to the USA for fittings? I know tailors/stylists can be competitive, but NSM was extremely critical of my first Solito sport coat without providing any specifics.

 

:lurk:

post #552 of 616
Really insightful post.
post #553 of 616
Don't think the waistband is the problem. Below the waistband the cut of the pants simply don't fit. There are exceptions. One would be no hips or seat for the pants to sit on. Pleats might make them to baggy, too.
post #554 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

One would be no hips or seat for the pants to sit on.

Just speaking for myself, but I would definitely complain if my pants came without a seat.
post #555 of 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Just speaking for myself, but I would definitely complain if my pants came without a seat.

What? You don't like leggings like what the native Indians wore before pale faces showed up.

Of course I'm writing about the shape of human seats. Flat seats. Seats that jut out. Trouser rest upon the seat that juts out if proper darts are placed. What are called flat seats leaves thin air to hold the trousers up. Good luck with the latter.
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