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Solito Thread - Page 4

post #46 of 139
6/15/11 at 1:18pm
They look lovely, Manton. I'd love to see full photos of you wearing the the suits sometime. Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?
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post #47 of 139
6/15/11 at 1:27pm
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post #48 of 139
6/15/11 at 1:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner).

Thanks. There are some jackets that feel like they want to fall off my back, and the A&S ex-pat ones feel the opposite.

--Andre
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post #49 of 139
6/15/11 at 1:31pm
Manton,

For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.
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post #50 of 139
6/15/11 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I'm wearing unlined sleeves in this WAYWRN post from yesterday. The jacket is in Minnis 7/8 Fresco, so it's about as "grabby" a fabric as might be for something without a lining.

I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?
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post #51 of 139
6/15/11 at 4:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post
Do unlined sleeves work well?

In other words, aside from providing an ease of slipping in and out of the coat, are sleeve linings necessary to give the sleeve some shape?
Beyond slipping it on and off I haven't worn it yet but I plan to tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by srivats View Post
Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?
They are higher than he would normally make but not SR high. Yes, pleated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcc View Post
Manton,

For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.
I don't mind the pleating for anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post
I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?

This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.
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post #52 of 139
6/15/11 at 4:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.

I noticed this on a SB suit of mine, but not on a DB suit of the same material. Is there extra fabric in the DB between the canvas to make the sheer quality less apparent? For all I know he could have used a black canvas as I had the DB jacket made later.
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post #53 of 139
6/15/11 at 4:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I don't mind the pleating for anything.


Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".
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post #54 of 139
6/15/11 at 4:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".

The lapped shoulder seam is much less noticeable than the shirt-set sleevehead. Of course, I'm assuming you mean the true shoulder seam, running between the collar and the shoulder point, and not the armscye.
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post #55 of 139
6/15/11 at 4:59pm
Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.
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post #56 of 139
6/15/11 at 5:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.

I'd be uttery shocked if more than one out of a hundred people at your office could notice and identify that your shoulder seam is lapped and not open.
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post #57 of 139
6/15/11 at 5:05pm
Thread Starter 
Solito laps all the seams on the coat. All the Neapolitan coats that I have examined were made the same way. Ambrosi laps the trouser outseams but not the inseams. Lapped seams appear to be part of the culture there.
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post #58 of 139
6/15/11 at 5:07pm
Yeah, I guess you're right.
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post #59 of 139
6/15/11 at 5:43pm
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post #60 of 139
6/15/11 at 5:49pm
My fresco summer suits are quarter lined, with unlined sleeves--could not possibly care less if sometimes under some lighting some of my shirt pattern might show through.
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