Originally Posted by Baron
Manton's Solito stuff is some of my favorite bespoke on styleforum, but I agree in general that I would prefer that the fashion revert to a lower gorge.
I like this gorge. I think when worn it does not look quite as high as in the pic. It's lower than my A&S actually, though not lower than my A&S alum guy.
Originally Posted by quar
Manton, I notice that you buy a lot of your own fabrics and do CMT. Is that because the selection from Solito is inferior / smaller, or is it to take advantage of the savings?
Most of my fabric was bought years ago and has been sat on for years. I went on a binge for a while and accumulated such a "cellar" that I realized I had to stop. I am glad I have it because it is good stuff and, yes, the Solito selection is not the widest. I have used his cloth only once but will again someday, esp. for linen because he has access to great linen. But for Lesser, Minnis and most of the British classics, you have to source your own.
Originally Posted by A Y
Manton, can you say a few words about the feel of the Solito garments vs. A&S and maybe Raphael, in terms of what it's like to wear them? The A&S garments seem to have their own unique feel.
Well, I am not sure I can shed much light. They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner). The Solitos feel a little closer to the body and a little lighter. The A&S offshoots are the loosest. Raph is in the middle.
Originally Posted by apropos
Manton, do the Solito(e)s speak English? What is the turnaround for a suit with 2 fittings like?PS:
The crocs belong to another member of the household.
Luigi speaks passable English. Gennaro, the father, does not. I have never had two fittings though if you do the entire process in Naples you can probably get more than one. Turnaround time is, to say the least, lengthy and erratic. I admit to being exasperated more than once. But I love the product so I try to cope.
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Manton, could you talk about the different tailor's approach to drape that you have used? Does it feel or look any different between all of the tailors or are the results pretty much the same to you?
The most obvious difference is between Solito and MA&SEBTâ„¢. The latter cuts a silhouette that is quite "rounded" in appearance. I don't know how to describe this but think of like how they teach people to draw. Instead of starting with a fully formed human figure they encourage you to use ovals to represent the major areas of the body to get the proportions right. The A&S coats are kind of like two of those ovals, a big one for the chest and shoulders, a narrower one for the hips, with a fairly hourglassy indentation separating them.
The Solito jacket looks more columnar, the shoulders are less rounded on the top, the waist is "longer" and less pronounced, and the hip is trimmer.
They have a different approach to drape, too, which I am finding very hard to put into words. The basic elements are there; you can grab a handfull of excess cloth on either side of the chest near the skye, but there is a more obvious break or fold on the A&S stuff. Solito manages to puff the chest out a bit so that the excess doesn't break but makes a convex curve.