or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Solito Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Solito Thread - Page 9

post #121 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
My two grays also have it. You can't see it at all on the nailhead and on the solid gray it's visible but barely. The tan shows it the most and the pic is flash, which highlights it. In normal light, I doubt most people would notice.

I want flap pockets on my fresco suits and I guess I will have to do these pockets. Is the phantom pocket reserved for more tightly woven fabrics?
post #122 of 139
...
post #123 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MantonView Post
My two grays also have it. You can't see it at all on the nailhead and on the solid gray it's visible but barely. The tan shows it the most and the pic is flash, which highlights it. In normal light, I doubt most people would notice.

I want flap pockets on my fresco suits and I guess I will have to do these pockets. Is the phantom pocket reserved for more tightly woven fabrics?

The phantom pocket is something they do for unlined jackets with flap pockets. They way they make the inside, the partial lining stops at the pocket and there is nothing to tack the pocket onto on the inside. So they do that phantom stitch.
post #124 of 139
The back part of the pocket isn't tacked to anything, ever, even on a fully lined jacket. Front edge of the pocket is tacked to the canvass along the front edge of the pocket and along the top edge of the pocket to the end of the canvass. This phantom thing is a stylistic effect rather than serving any function.
post #125 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The back part of the pocket isn't tacked to anything, ever, even on a fully lined jacket. Front edge of the pocket is tacked to the canvass along the front edge of the pocket and along the top edge of the pocket to the end of the canvass. This phantom thing is a stylistic effect rather than serving any function.

But they don't do it on lined coats, only on unlined. I assume they must have a reason beyond mere style or else they would do it on everything.
post #126 of 139
Maybe, I really don't know why they would have to tack it when a jacket is unlined.
post #127 of 139
Well, well. After a year's delay through family crisis, and another few months from sloppy administration, I finally get my blue linen jacket.

Shoulders, fit, and silhouette are amazing. Same general aims there as Steven Hitchcock, but softer, less lining, superior sewing, and just enough closeness under the arms to give a hint of the lift I remember from the first Dege suits I bought, back in their Clifford Street days. Waist needs to be taken in an inch or two but that's my fault..

Now if I could only get used to some of the Neapolitan styling. Lapels (2 button) very wide and sporty almost in a 1970s sort of way. And the sleeve buttons-- tiny, miles from the cuff, and all bunched together as if they'd slid down my arm and crashed at the bottom. Anyone managed to negotiate a more Anglo-American look out of those details? The potential is astounding.
post #128 of 139
Thread Starter 
My lapels are not crazy (with the possible exception of my one DB and your definition of "crazy"). All the SBs have quite moderate or at least harmonious lapels, about halfway across the chest, comparable to an A&S expat. But all mine are 3 button so maybe that makes a difference.

I have a feeling (and it could be wrong) that asking an Italian tailor to make a two button suit is like asking an English tailor to make a barchetta or spalla camicia. They will probably do it but it's not in their DNA and it won't look quite right.

I know what you mean about the sleeve buttons. I just live with it and it really doesn't bother me. I know, however, that they will modify certain things. E.g., at least one of my NY friends has gotten them to do a proper long, straight English carnation buttonhole on the lapel instead of the abbreviated little thing they normally do. Luigi asked me if I wanted that and I told him to just make his usual lapel hole.
post #129 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Well, well. After a year's delay through family crisis, and another few months from sloppy administration, I finally get my blue linen jacket.

Shoulders, fit, and silhouette are amazing. Same general aims there as Steven Hitchcock, but softer, less lining, superior sewing, and just enough closeness under the arms to give a hint of the lift I remember from the first Dege suits I bought, back in their Clifford Street days. Waist needs to be taken in an inch or two but that's my fault..

Now if I could only get used to some of the Neapolitan styling. Lapels (2 button) very wide and sporty almost in a 1970s sort of way. And the sleeve buttons-- tiny, miles from the cuff, and all bunched together as if they'd slid down my arm and crashed at the bottom. Anyone managed to negotiate a more Anglo-American look out of those details? The potential is astounding.

Any hope of pics? icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #130 of 139
When is Solito coming back to NYC? It was supposed to be in September, right?Does anyone have dates?
post #131 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

My lapels are not crazy (with the possible exception of my one DB and your definition of "crazy"). All the SBs have quite moderate or at least harmonious lapels, about halfway across the chest, comparable to an A&S expat. But all mine are 3 button so maybe that makes a difference.

I have a feeling (and it could be wrong) that asking an Italian tailor to make a two button suit is like asking an English tailor to make a barchetta or spalla camicia. They will probably do it but it's not in their DNA and it won't look quite right.

I know what you mean about the sleeve buttons. I just live with it and it really doesn't bother me. I know, however, that they will modify certain things. E.g., at least one of my NY friends has gotten them to do a proper long, straight English carnation buttonhole on the lapel instead of the abbreviated little thing they normally do. Luigi asked me if I wanted that and I told him to just make his usual lapel hole.

I guess the thing to try would be a 3-button with one button (large) on the sleeve. Your lapels don't look too out-there, although they don't quite look SR either. Tweeds, linens, or perhaps a rusticated, professorial flannel suit. Apparently you have to go further north (or to London House) for a proper business suit.
post #132 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post


I guess the thing to try would be a 3-button with one button (large) on the sleeve. Your lapels don't look too out-there, although they don't quite look SR either. Tweeds, linens, or perhaps a rusticated, professorial flannel suit. Apparently you have to go further north (or to London House) for a proper business suit.

Well, I think that goes too far. Everthing I have from them I wear for business, even the linen (on Fridays when half the place is empty). All the rest are worsteds plus one flannel. I think they are perfectly fine and don't look at all unusual.

The lapel shape is different, not at all SR, I was speaking of the width. I prefer the shape of the Solito notch to the A&S notch. I don't think the Solito notch looks much different than Rubinacci, if at all. There is a "Naples notch" look that all the tailors from there share. It's a different approach not just to SR but to the rest of Italy. It's distinctive if you know what it looks like and how it differs but not so distinctive than a non-iGent would see it and think "What the hell is that?"
post #133 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

When is Solito coming back to NYC? It was supposed to be in September, right?Does anyone have dates?

bump plain.gif
post #134 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomestar View Post

bump plain.gif

I know, right! I wondered the same recently. Besides Ciardi, he's the only other Neapolitan tailor I would try as Panico's prices mirrors LH now.
post #135 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomestar View Post

bump plain.gif

Last I spoke with them, there had been a recurrence of the family illness that had wreaked some havoc before. So don't assume too much on the travel front.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Solito Thread