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Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011 - Page 17

post #241 of 255
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post #242 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


that looks like what is being made up for me
the right drawing of mariano

Nice--what kind of cloth?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Wow, that's some cloth. What is "military-style"? Similar to a trench coat?

Is the plaid for lining?

Yeah, the plaid is for the lining. Some Italian make--nothing too special. Might be Zegna or Loro Piana.

"Military-style" is a bit of a redundant descriptor, as greatcoats are inherently military-style. It's essentially a tweed greatcoat.
post #243 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Nice--what kind of cloth?

an 900gm dark brown/cream hopsack. from moorebrook
i made a mistake
it is similar to the left drawing of mariano
but not as long - just below the knee
post #244 of 255
Ahh, you switched to more interesting topics smile.gif!
I feel inspired to order another overcoat now, something different than my German armour with the crazy double cents ...coincidentally I am on way to Napoli right now. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Rubinacci has some über-cool double sided checks (the infamous overcoat Luca Rubinacco wore at the last winter Pitti was made from one of these), but I guess these would be a bit too much, maybe.
post #245 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Wow, that's some cloth. What is "military-style"? Similar to a trench coat?

Is the plaid for lining?
I assumed he meant (and the drawings back it up) something inspired by a traditional military greatcoat.

500
Also, interesting choice of lining. Barbour-esque.

If you are lining the sleeves with that, I would ask that you please reconsider - it may (will) catch on jacket sleeves!
Edited by apropos - 7/21/11 at 5:27am
post #246 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Starting an overcoat order for this winter. Military-style greatcoat. Vintage tweed, 50-60 years old, ~18 oz. More here.

overcoating4s.jpg

Stunning fabric. Also like the way the plaid looks with the herringbone. Interested to hear whether Rubinacci has voiced any concerns about the wool lining catching onto jackets or pants.
Edited by C&A - 7/21/11 at 6:16am
post #247 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

I assumed he meant (and the drawings back it up) something inspired by a traditional military greatcoat.

500

that is what mine will be like
a bit shorter though
turnback cuffs
flapped patch mailbox pockets
a vent running from between the shoulderblades
to the bottom of the coat
belted back
post #248 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Rubinacci has some über-cool double sided checks (the infamous overcoat Luca Rubinacco wore at the last winter Pitti was made from one of these), but I guess these would be a bit too much, maybe.

Yes, I saw those. But then I saw this!
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

I assumed he meant (and the drawings back it up) something inspired by a traditional military greatcoat.

500
Also, interesting choice of lining. Barbour-esque.

If you are lining the sleeves with that, I would ask that you please reconsider - it may (will) catch on jacket sleeves!

Yes, along those lines, but with a lower buttoning point. I didn't ask about the lining issue--hadn't thought of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


that is what mine will be like
a bit shorter though
turnback cuffs
flapped patch mailbox pockets
a vent running from between the shoulderblades
to the bottom of the coat
belted back

How do you convey "flapped patch mailbox pockets" in Italian?
post #249 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


How do you convey "flapped patch mailbox pockets" in Italian?

i just drew a picture
and he understood immediately
post #250 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


i just drew a picture
and he understood immediately

I tried the same, but I'm not sure I ultimately got the idea across. I may wind up with rounded flap patch pockets.
post #251 of 255
^
if i remember correctly
either dopey or vox posted a photo
ask either one to give you a copy
that you can email to mariano
post #252 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

^
if i remember correctly
either dopey or vox posted a photo
ask either one to give you a copy
that you can email to mariano

Do you mean this one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

The coat is beautiful, but it looks like conventional patch pockets and flaps and not
the unique Polo coat pocket, where the flap is integrated into the patch pocket.

post #253 of 255
^
there you go!
post #254 of 255

Also known as "envelope pockets" I think. Not sure what it would be called in Italian. Originally from Polo coats, maybe.

post #255 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Yes, along those lines, but with a lower buttoning point. I didn't ask about the lining issue--hadn't thought of it
Really looking forward to how this one might turn out. I learnt the hard way when I lined a linen jacket sleeve in shirting cotton - not sure what texture your fabric has so YMMV.
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