Originally Posted by A Y
Do you know what kind of cutting system R. uses? If it's block manipulation, it seems like there's a very wide fuzzy line between MTM and custom, perhaps analogous to the better MTM shirtmakers.
No idea. To my mind, however, any meaningful difference between "MTM" and "bespoke" doesn't hinge on whether a block pattern is manipulated, but rather the degree to which manipulation is possible, and how artfully. When you order Oxxford or Kiton MTM, there is a stock pattern that can be tweaked in numerous dimensions, but there is nonetheless a limit--even if theoretical. Also, MTM changes tend to be executed piecemeal (adjust x, adjust y, adjust z, etc.), without a tailor considering the whole of the garment and making multiple adjustments at once to control the overall result. When I was measured for my Oxxford things, the process appeared very methodical and systematic with many little measurements here and there. With Rubinacci, there were only a handful of measurements--like four or five--and the rest was eyeballed. As a novice, the former was more comforting, but now the latter is.