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Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011 - Page 12

post #166 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post
. . .

Marco, again, the problem with your commentary is that it amounts to: "You're a tourist, I'm not, so I'm right and you're wrong." If you want to talk about other Neapolitan tailors and bring forth a meaningful comparison, why don't you present some objective, substantive information that others can judge for themselves?

Anyway, I think you are also seriously misconstruing what I've claimed about Rubinacci. I never said they were the only 'true' Neapolitan tailors--not even close. I never claimed they single-handedly invented a style, either. As your own account indicates, the development of tailoring in Naples has been multi-fronted and fluid. Thus, its inherently impossible to pinpoint any tailor that represents 'true' Neapolitan tailoring. The one thing I have said in Rubinacci's favor with respect to that issue is that they've been around for a long time, and continued with the same style. Insofar as Neapolitan tailoring is decades-old in the making and represented by many different tailors and styles, Rubinacci's consistency and longevity alone are fully indicative of the firm's claim to being truly Neapolitan. If you think not, I'd imagine you'd have objective reasons you could illucidate, rather than mere hearsay.
post #167 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Well, tourists like to see the sights. I just followed-up my Rubinacci post with this one on Cappelli: http://tweedinthecity.wordpress.com/...-e-g-cappelli/

Very sweet - many thanks.
post #168 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
You can specify width, length, thickness of interlining, as well as construction method (3-fold self-tipped, 7-fold etc.)

Ah, I see, thank you. I don't really have opinions or preferences on most of those dimensions as I haven't worn ties much for the past three years. Now that I am wearing them regularly that will likely change over the next few months. Regardless, next time I'm in Naples, a visit to Cappelli is definitely on the agenda.
post #169 of 255
When I was there in November, a coffee at Gambrinus cost exactly as much as it cost in every single caffe I went to in Naples: 90 cents, with a 10 cent tip expected, so one euro.
post #170 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
When I was there in November, a coffee at Gambrinus cost exactly as much as it cost in every single caffe I went to in Naples: 90 cents, with a 10 cent tip expected, so one euro.

How do you know they expect the 10 cent tip? Is that a rule in Naples? Tipping is getting out. of. control. in Europe now, too! Ugh!
post #171 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
When I was there in November, a coffee at Gambrinus cost exactly as much as it cost in every single caffe I went to in Naples: 90 cents, with a 10 cent tip expected, so one euro.

I think it depends on whether you take it at the bar or sitting at a table. The table prices are higher. Anyway, Gambrinus is a nice place to spend a morning.
post #172 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapaboze View Post
Ah, I see, thank you. I don't really have opinions or preferences on most of those dimensions as I haven't worn ties much for the past three years. Now that I am wearing them regularly that will likely change over the next few months. Regardless, next time I'm in Naples, a visit to Cappelli is definitely on the agenda.

Don't miss Rubinacci for ties, too. The silk selection is very unique.
post #173 of 255
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post #174 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
How do you know they expect the 10 cent tip? Is that a rule in Naples? Tipping is getting out. of. control. in Europe now, too! Ugh!

Because everyone, everywhere, put down a euro and left the change.
post #175 of 255
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post #176 of 255
I know, I was being facetious.
post #177 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Don't miss Rubinacci for ties, too. The silk selection is very unique.
Oh, I'm with you there. Not having a need for ties in recent years hasn't stopped me from buying them whenever I go to LH.
post #178 of 255
Mafoofan...I enjoyed the latest thread and the pictures

Have you considered sampling some other flavor of Naples finest tailors...perhaps one's in a lower price range to see if the value of Rubinacci is worth it? Or do you feel given the fine quality of work...and ability to communicate effectively in English...that there is no need to try anyone else?
post #179 of 255
I'm not going to speak for foo but my own perspective on the matter of trying different tailors in a place like Naples is this.

Unless you have a reason, due to proximity or being really fkn rich or a high % of free time, to get to Naples pretty frequently its not a viable - not to mention cost effective, option. My issue is having the time - with what I do I simply cannot take the time to jaunt over to Naples every 3 months for fittings.

From what I can tell, Mina and Rubinacci are exceptions to the rule - travel frequently to most major cities, deliver on time, etc. I've heard horror stories of tailoring projects gone bad due to a variety of factors - language barrier issues, straight up crookery, lost goods in customs, ill fitting garments - the list goes on and on. You only need to do a few searches on this forum and others to find that out.

I'd love, as much as the next guy, to explore the gritty streets of Naples "discovering" new outposts but seeing that I'd be lucky to get to Naples once a year it doesn't make any sense for me. Now if I lived in Germany or England that'd be a different story.
post #180 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Mafoofan...I enjoyed the latest thread and the pictures

Have you considered sampling some other flavor of Naples finest tailors...perhaps one's in a lower price range to see if the value of Rubinacci is worth it? Or do you feel given the fine quality of work...and ability to communicate effectively in English...that there is no need to try anyone else?

The language problem should not be underestimated. It's okay when you're dealing with something simple like a shirt or pair of pants, but there are just too many variables involved with a suit, to say nothing of the greater expense.

Moreover, the idea of dealing with tailors lacking a transparent, organized pricing structure fills me with no small amount of anxiety. I like knowing the price I see on the list is the price I'm going to pay, and that's what everyone else is going to pay, too. The notion of needing a proper introduction to get the right kind of price and service really strikes the wrong chord with me, and I would not want or know how to maintain such a relationship.

And that's really the heart of it: when you see a tailor, you build a relationship. It's not like ordering off a menu or picking something out at the store. Your conversations with your tailor are crucial in building that relationship, and will invariably influence the work he does for you. You don't just want to be another set of measurements in a folder. If I can't have a friendly conversation with a tailor, I won't use him. It would be a potential disaster for both of us.
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