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Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011 - Page 11

post #151 of 255
Back on topic. A few questions for Foo:

1) Did you take pics of any of the vintage offerings (vault)?

2) Did you notice any new product offerings that were of particular note?

3) What other garments were in process? Anything catch your eye?
post #152 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
Well you're leaving this thread, and I'll take credit for that.

I, for one, would be sad to see Banis leave this thread because of your comments. He continuously adds real value to this place. You, on the other hand, typically put out a bunch of nonsense here. I am usually pretty good at ignoring it, but you're really outdoing yourself here. If you think that you have added anything here, that's pretty sad. Get help.
post #153 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by scruff View Post
+1. It's quite nice and informative to hear other perspectives re: something most of us have had first hand account of. Apropros - your last few posts have been strangely aggressive despite this not even being your thread.
It's just really fucking annoying when good threads get derailed by people seeking to push their agendas (i.e. my tailor is authentic/better) instead of people genuinely interested in having a discussion. I used to do it, so I know precisely when I see it. Plus I'm pretty binary, so I'm full on. Go have a read of marcodalondra's posts, have a read of his other tailor thread, and you can see the roots of this - he isn't interested in discussing the finer points of Napolitan tailoring; he's more interested in putting forth in various shapes/forms that foo's overpaying, foo has fallen into a tourist trap, real Napolitans don't use Rubi, the service foo got is nothing special really, Rubi/Ambrosi is nothing special really, not even authentic stuff... all these things have nothing to do with the garments and more to do with what XYZ local competitor whispered. And of course undermining the credibility of the experience foo had. You might have seen this in highschool circa the early 90s when the kids who wore Reeboks did something similar to the kids who wore the more expensive Nikes, and who only really wanted to enjoy wearing their Nikes. It has nothing to do with the garments, and all to do with a fervent desire to be right, and in the spotlight. All the dude did was post an enthusiastist's POV of a trip to his tailor - it's ridiculous that some here expect him to qualify every statement he makes regarding their capabilities and his experience to make them feel better about their experiences. Lonneker, still a loyal Jantzen customer I see?
post #154 of 255
How I wish it was free...

post #155 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post
Back on topic. A few questions for Foo:

1) Did you take pics of any of the vintage offerings (vault)?

2) Did you notice any new product offerings that were of particular note?

3) What other garments were in process? Anything catch your eye?

1. I took pictures of the vintage fabric I picked out for my own overcoat, but I did not visit the vault this time. Even if I had, it's so immense, and the offerings so random, I'm not sure where I'd even begin.

2. Some very cool RTW casual outerwear, but none fit me. There was a black, waxed cotton jacket in exactly the same format as my Barbour International, but clearly better made. Some very nice alligator belts, too, but I'm still waiting on my tubo. There are some new colorways for the pocket squares, but no new designs. I was very tempted by the navy blue Victory, but I still preferred my black one upon reflection. Also, there appears to be some new collaboration between Rubinacci and Thomas Mason--they have entire bound books of shirtings that are supposedly Rubinacci-exclusive, but we all know how far the 'exclusivity' of fabric goes in the bespoke world. All in all, the store hasn't changed much--which is a very good thing.

3. There were quite a few totally unstructured sportcoats ready for client pick-up. Luca is working on a very radical prototype garment that I'll cover later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rufino2 View Post
If you call that " spam " I will say that spam is what Foo and Whnay are doing promoting Rubinacci on the forum for free clothes.

If only.
post #156 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
It's just really fucking annoying when good threads get derailed by people seeking to push their agendas (i.e. my tailor is authentic/better) instead of people genuinely interested in having a discussion. I used to do it, so I know precisely when I see it. Plus I'm pretty binary, so I'm full on.

Go have a read of marcodalondra's posts, have a read of his other tailor thread, and you can see the roots of this - he isn't interested in discussing the finer points of Napolitan tailoring; he's more interested in putting forth in various shapes/forms that foo's overpaying, foo has fallen into a tourist trap, real Napolitans don't use Rubi, the service foo got is nothing special really, Rubi/Ambrosi is nothing special really, not even authentic stuff... all these things have nothing to do with the garments and more to do with what XYZ local competitor whispered. And of course undermining the credibility of the experience foo had.

You might have seen this in highschool circa the early 90s when the kids who wore Reeboks did something similar to the kids who wore the more expensive Nikes, and who only really wanted to enjoy wearing their Nikes. It has nothing to do with the garments, and all to do with a fervent desire to be right, and in the spotlight. All the dude did was post an enthusiastist's POV of a trip to his tailor - it's ridiculous that some here expect him to qualify every statement he makes regarding their capabilities and his experience to make them feel better about their experiences.


I am not sure I agree. Look, I enjoy these Foo threads as much as you do, but I also like to see someone like Banis join in. He has some experience with Napoli tailors and has shared that here, including pics, and, at a minimum, brings additional sartorial views. I was/am also expecting from MD, but think he got a bit stuck in the tourist debate.

Not sure that the Nike/Reebok comparison really flies here. But then again, I wore Adidas in high school.

Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
Lonneker, still a loyal Jantzen customer I see?

Good memory; sadly, even I may have moved on from them.
post #157 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post
How I wish it was free...


Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
If only.

Lost opportunity; you guys really should be looking for some deal though. Seriously; Foo's write-ups and both of your pics are going all over the internet; I am sure Luca sees that and can only be happy about it. No matter how you think Foo's pants look in that pic.
post #158 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post
Lost opportunity; you guys really should be looking for some deal though. Seriously; Foo's write-ups and both of your pics are going all over the internet; I am sure Luca sees that and can only be happy about it. No matter how you think Foo's pants look in that pic.

The truth is that the internet discussion does little to benefit them. Guys like me and whnay order a small fraction of what many other clients do per year. The random people who approach Rubinacci on the basis of the photos I post are just as likely to be a hassle as legitimate, long-term clients with substantial business.
post #159 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
The truth is that the internet discussion does little to benefit them. Guys like me and whnay order a small fraction of what many other clients do per year. The random people who approach Rubinacci on the basis of the photos I post are just as likely to be a hassle as legitimate, long-term clients with substantial business.

Sadly, that makes a lot of sense. I do think you guys help their exposure, but you're probably right.
post #160 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
The truth is that the internet discussion does little to benefit them. Guys like me and whnay order a small fraction of what many other clients do per year. The random people who approach Rubinacci on the basis of the photos I post are just as likely to be a hassle as legitimate, long-term clients with substantial business.

This is probably right for the current generation of customers (who are more inclined to use the local high end tailor, or whoever their circle of friends/family uses), but I think the next generation will give a lot more weight to internet reputation. I know I trust SF consensus on many things much more than I trust the random opinions of my real life friends or salesmen at the local department store.
post #161 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Of course, it's great to have different perspectives in a discussion. My only qualm is when these perspectives are pushed on an ad hominem basis. That I'm a tourist or non-Neapolitan should have nothing to do with the validity of my observations, so long as I'm not claiming to be an insider.

To clarify what I mean by Rubinacci offering better service: I know of no other Neapolitan tailor that makes such regular visits to New York, speaks fluent English, and offers a transparent, formalized pricing structure. If anyone else does, please let me know. On top of that, I have been extremely pleased with Rubinacci's willingness to correct every single 'error' that arises, even if it requires remaking an entire garment. It's true, I am not familiar with other Neapolitan tailors' performance in that respect, but Rubinacci compares very favorably against accounts of other internationally well-known tailors.

Matt,

I understand your point, but the fact you are a tourist affect your research and observation. This is a fact. In every city there are touristy places and places for local. Prices are not the only factor (even in touristy places, a local will have a different price). A local would not go to a tailor just because he has been around for 80 years, but rather use someone that has been in business for long, got his own reputation, that probably steams from being the heir to a school he was part of (as Blasi was of teh De Nicola school etc...). Also, I know you says you are reporting some of the statements, but even the fact that those statemnts may not have any foundation is a key to pass them on in the first place.

I was born and raised there and my family has strong root in the city so I believe I now quite a bit about how neapolitan people behave, as I have been in certain situation advising tourists (both from North Italy or foreigners), and you tend to give the names that appear on tourist guides as they are safer for tourists to explore. So, although they may not offer the best coffee, if you ask most neapolitan where should I get a coffee in Naples they will tell you to go to the Gambrinus (which is a fantastic location), which charges more then average and offer an average coffee, although amongst us we may go to the Bar Mexico near Vanvitelli Square or Piazza Dante for the best coffee.

I am not even sure that I making my point clear with this again, and I have nothing against Rubinacci in principle, but actual facts proves that he has argubly been the best sartoria in Naples for the last 80 years, as there have always been many offers that may not have survived as they always been artisanal business, that when a tailor retired, the clients were taken over my one of the head cutters/master tailors. Rubinacci has always been a front shop, run by businessman with a sense of style perhaps, but never tailors (I know you know, just trying to complete my point) that have also been good at marketing themselves. Some of the stuff they wear and they made for you, do not warrant IMO any special status and that is my point, that there is better offer that can also be at a more convenient price point.

Basically, IMO, it would be fine to go to Rubinacci if you were a multimillionaire Arab, that spend no time reading anywhere about style, tailors etc, popping into the city where he heard that a business friend has his cloth made there, and ask the hotel where you should go. But in a forum like this, were there are people willing to learn and research and then travel there for a bespoke commission, there is a much wider choice.

Any tailor should be able to do anything you want. He may shrug it off as not is preference or house style, but if I ask for a bespoke structured jacket, my tailor should be able to do it. Luckily I have solid shoulders and need no padding...

Ciao
post #162 of 255
Thread Starter 
Well, tourists like to see the sights. I just followed-up my Rubinacci post with this one on Cappelli: http://tweedinthecity.wordpress.com/...-e-g-cappelli/



post #163 of 255
Matt that blue and brown stripe is beautiful. May I ask, what is the price range for RTW and bespoke? Also, is the primary benefit of bespoke ties the ability to choose lining/weight, or is the length substantially different as well?
post #164 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapaboze View Post
Matt that blue and brown stripe is beautiful. May I ask, what is the price range for RTW and bespoke? Also, is the primary benefit of bespoke ties the ability to choose lining/weight, or is the length substantially different as well?

You can specify width, length, thickness of interlining, as well as construction method (3-fold self-tipped, 7-fold etc.)
post #165 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Well, tourists like to see the sights. I just followed-up my Rubinacci post with this one on Cappelli: http://tweedinthecity.wordpress.com/...-e-g-cappelli/


Top left is just killer - love it.

The selection was really daunting. His wool challis is really unmatched and he also has some very cool, unconventional madder. Thanks for the post.
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