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Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

post #1 of 255
Thread Starter 
I just got to putting up the first blog post on my recent trip to Naples. I started with a write-up of my tour of the Rubinacci laboratorio. I know I can be accused of bias, but I think you'll agree that their setup is quite something. Everybody knows the prices are high, but I hoped to make it more clear what you're getting for your money. Every stitch in each jacket is by hand, except for the long sleeve seams and the center seam running down the back panel.

Here's some photos from the post:











I've got more to post about, including more about what I ordered at Rubinacci, and a visit to Cappelli. Stay tuned.
post #2 of 255
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post #3 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I enjoyed that. Well done. I look forward to the rest of your trip report. - B
+1
post #4 of 255
Thats beautiful stuff Matt, look fwd to seeing what you picked up. Your stuff always looks great.
post #5 of 255
Thanks for sharing Mat, great post. Mariano is always dashingly dressed.
post #6 of 255
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys--glad you enjoyed it. There is much more substance in the blog post.

Beyond my two summer suits, I also ordered an overcoat, way too many ties, and about a zillion trousers that should be here any day . . .
post #7 of 255
The most surprising and impressive thing I saw when I visited last October was a young, very hot girl working in room in which the three ladies are sewing (I think it was that room). I was generally impressed by the youth of the workers and encouraged that the tradition continues, at least in Naples. Did I mention that she was really hot? And thanks for posting this.
post #8 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Thanks guys--glad you enjoyed it. There is much more substance in the blog post.

Beyond my two summer suits, I also ordered an overcoat, way too many ties, and about a zillion trousers that should be here any day . . .

Speaking of which, what's a "lapped trouser seam" and its practical benefit? Or is it merely an asthetic factor? Glad you finally bit the bullet and commissioned an overcoat; now if we can get you into a sleeker shoe model, you'll be set with a complete look . Also, is the fabric of Mariano's solaro suit cotton?
post #9 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcc View Post
Speaking of which, what's a "lapped trouser seam" and its practical benefit? Or is it merely an asthetic factor? Glad you finally bit the bullet and commissioned an overcoat; now if we can get you into a sleeker shoe model, you'll be set with a complete look . Also, is the fabric of Mariano's solaro suit cotton?

The long seam running down the length of the trouser legs are lapped, meaning that the seam allowances are folded over to one side (rather than splayed apart), and stitched shut. I don't know of a functional advantage, but it is more aesthetically in keeping with the lapped seams and double stitching in the jackets I ordered.

Mariano's suit is definitely Solaro.

As for shoes: Alden gunboats are the most admired shoes in Naples!
post #10 of 255
A worthy adventure on any bespoke travelers "to do" list. I continue to be amazed at the quality and consistency of the product - fittings or not. It remains unequaled vs. the places I've ventured and observed.

Great post Foo.
post #11 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post
A worthy adventure on any bespoke travelers "to do" list. I continue to be amazed at the quality and consistency of the product - fittings or not. It remains unequaled vs. the places I've ventured and observed.

Great post Foo.

From what I can tell, everything get's a lot of careful consideration. Despite the increased numbers, it's nothing like an assembly line.
post #12 of 255
Where are the suits????
post #13 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post
Where are the suits????

Haven't taken any pictures yet, but whnay and Manton have seen one of them.
post #14 of 255
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rufino View Post
I have been there as well. An old salesmen was very kind and offered me to see the full building. I don´t like the shape of their jackets or shirts, overpriced as hell but their ties are very good. I bought a book as well about Rubinacci and ancient napoli tailoring. No one from Napoli wears Rubinacci but better tailors.
Overpriced compared to what? As far as I know, nobody in Naples does quite what they do in terms of service, and the prices are inline with what other internationally-renowned tailors charge. I've heard that bit about nobody in Naples wearing Rubinacci. It's both false and a terrible argument. As far as I could tell, every person who came to the shop while I was there was a local--at the very least, certainly Italian. Anyway, the number of Neapolitans wearing Rubinacci is as relevant as the number of Germans who drive S-class Mercedes. Given the prices, obviously there will be relatively few. It says nothing about the quality or regional legitimacy of the product. Actually, while I was there, an elderly Neapolitan came up to me at a cafe to compliment me on what I was wearing. He asked me where I got my clothes. When I said Rubinacci, he nodded in approval and gave me a thumb's up. While you were at London House, did you examine some of the vintage garments? They date back as far as the 30's. It's very telling how unchanged the contemporary product is. Also, why on earth would you pay for a book about a Neapolitan tailor you think is overpriced and not worn by anyone in Naples?
post #15 of 255
Very nice report - many thanks and looking forward to the next episode.
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