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THE OFFICIAL "streetwear" BALLER BOOT/SHOE THREAD ***700usd Min*** - Page 304

post #4546 of 13245
Quote:
Originally Posted by eckblk View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
pics courtesy of SZ's uparmoured

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3 shoes for 3 decades
post #4547 of 13245
Is that CCP? I like those a lot.
post #4548 of 13245
Thread Starter 
All CCP.

Here is a pic of the insole of my Augusta ankle boots? Is this what you were asking for?

IMG_1823.jpg
post #4549 of 13245
^mine looks the same
post #4550 of 13245
Quote:
Originally Posted by eckblk View Post

All CCP.
Here is a pic of the insole of my Augusta ankle boots? Is this what you were asking for? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_1823.jpg

I need to see the front of the insole. I'm looking for little "dimples" in the leather that would be an indication that the shoe is handwelted. Sometimes you can't see anyway (especially if they use a double insole or a full sockliner), so we might not be able to tell. Have a look anyway.

the third post explains it with some more pictures. Basically, moving the awl through the insole during hand welting makes little bumps on the surface of the insole. However, if there is a double insole or they use a full sockliner (as with Vass), you can't see the dimples .

Machine (goodyear) welted shoes
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Goodyear Welted Shoes
cross section diagram (most ones on the internet lie and don't show the canvas rib, instead they show a handwelted holdfast). I had to make my own one. The canvas rib in red. The welt is in grey.

If we took a cross section of inside a goodyear welted shoe, we'd see something like this:

You don't see stitching inside the insole because there is no stitch that runs through it.

the welt runs around the outside of the shoe and the outsole is stitched to it.

Machine (Blake Rapid) Constructed shoes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Blake Rapid Shoe Construction

Should look like this on your shoes:

Click on the photo to see the line seperating the midsole from the outsole.


Handwelted shoes
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

and finally, Handwelted Shoes Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Important to note that, unlike with Goodyear welted shoes, the welt and upper are stitched directly to the insole. The holdfast is part of the insole, and is not a strip of canvas that is glued to the insole.
it's hard to draw a complete diagram, but carving the holdfast into the insole looks something like this:

Before the outsole is sewn on, but after the upper and welt have been stitched to the holdfast, it looks like this:

The welt running around the outside is stitched through the upper directly to that ridge, the holdfast of the insole.
Of course, once the outsole is sewn on, it's almost impossible to tell if the shoe is Goodyear or Handwelted, since there is no stitch that travels all the way through the insole in either construction.
However, handwelting the shoe - when you force an awl through the holdfast to make the holes - creates little dimples on the top surface of the insole, like this:

This is the big clue that tells you that the shoe is handwelted, not goodyear welted.
However, some makers will have a full sock liner, so you can't directly see the insole. In that case the only way of knowing for sure is to take off the sole and look.
I picked this all up from browsing MC. There's a lot of info there if you can wade through the trash.

More welts (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by teenagelightning View Post

just want to cover a couple welts hendrix missed,
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woz5.jpg
post #4551 of 13245
Hendrix. good info thanks!

I just pulled out all my boots and derbies and as far as I could tell, none of the Augustas, CCPs, Carpe, and MA+ have the dimples. smile.gif Looks like the MA+ is blake stitch. one of my Carpe is also blake stitch.
post #4552 of 13245

Hendrix- I'll take pictures when my A1923s come back from the cobbler, but the derbies that AREM was carrying definitely had the dimples (or at least I could feel them when my hand was inside the toebox)

post #4553 of 13245
FYI i just confirmed all CCP stuff is made in-house by carol w/assistance of studio staff, same as a1923
post #4554 of 13245
Confirmed with who?
post #4555 of 13245
i thought i read they were made by premiata

(not that i care)
Edited by artishard116 - 10/16/12 at 2:28pm
post #4556 of 13245
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abraxis View Post

Confirmed with who?

i have a source, dont worry about it
post #4557 of 13245
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedk View Post

i have a source, dont worry about it

aka source: interwebz
post #4558 of 13245
How does this guy go from knowing nothing about anything to becoming the insider authority on a bunch of topics?
post #4559 of 13245
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun View Post

aka source: interwebz

No
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post

How does this guy go from knowing nothing about anything to becoming the insider authority on a bunch of topics?

well i read a lot, i talked to a lot of merchants, i talked to a few pals via SF and here we are
post #4560 of 13245
Okay whatever. Honestly, I don't care either. But I will point out that obscuring your source hardly helps your credibility.

That said I have some internet sources too:

"He was also very open about his process, and all of his sources and production seem to be very well-known in Italy. When other designers brag "these are made in the same factory as carpe diem" or "the same shoemaker as CCP" is because there are basically a handful of factories that make everything, and they are not exclusive. If you have designs and have money, they will take it, and you can write in all of your press releases that your clothes are made in the same factories as ma+." as posted by MikeNoveau in an excellent post summarizing his conversations with Altieri of Carpe Diem fame.

Read more here: http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showpost.php?p=393543&postcount=999

Won't find me regurgitating his words as gospel though because same as you he's just a person on the internet. But I wanted to share a different perspective and try and balance out unsubstantiated hype.

Edit: You do know that retailers primarily want to sell you things right?
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