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The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.A.+, M Moria, Carpe Diem, etc..) - Page 322post #4817 of 2245011/6/12 at 8:48pmpost #4818 of 2245011/6/12 at 8:52pmpost #4819 of 2245011/6/12 at 8:58pmQuote:
If I could recommend getting one thing to use on streetwear boots it's some type of dubbin. Kiwi makes a dubbin, Saphir makes a dubbin, Sno seal is a type of dubbin. Put it everywhere - on the uppers and soles. It's not something you'd put on dress shoes because it makes the leather a touch greasy and difficult to achieve a shine, but it's good for protection and waterproofing.
IME the beeswax based ones are slightly less greasy and nicer to use than the tallow/animal fat based ones. I use a beeswax based one called Bee Kind, but basically any type of dubbin is fine. I'm not convinced that silicone or synthetic ingredients are bad for the leather - if anything they're possibly more inert than "natural" ingredients. Do consider smell - my one has a nice eucalyptus and tea tree oil infusion which is nice. Look in the natural product/hippie stores and i'm sure you'll find a range of nice smelling leather protectors.
Brush type basically doesn't matter. You can buy an expensive horsehair one or just use a $2 shop one, shouldn't make a difference. You need 1 brush with stiff bristles for brushing off dirt, and one with softer bristles for removing excess polish after polishing them or applying dubbin.
Most of the time my boots only need the dirt brushed off, but every once in a while i'll give them a workover.
my process goes like this:
- brush off dirt. If they're really dirty, clean using a little bit of shampoo and some water.
- Let them dry.
- If the leather looks really dry, they might need a bit of conditioning. Sometimes I'll use Saphir Renovateur for this, but you can use any conditioner. I actually often use Nivea For Men facial moisturiser and find it does the job.
- At this point with my dress shoes i'd use some polish, but for my streetwear boots I just put on some dubbin, allow to dry and then brush off the excess.
Lastly, less is more. I do this maybe once every 3 months and don't feel like they need it more than that. It's too easy to get obsessive about these things when you start reading about every product on the market; they all claim to prevent your shoes from spontaneous explosion and that every other product has some poison ivy ingredient that will give your shoes cancer. The reality is that the leather has been tanned and treated well before you receive them and probably needs minimal (if any) upkeep. Waterproofing your shoes with sno-seal originated from the need to prevent your feet from getting wet, not to prevent the leather from rotting. Leather is fine when it gets wet as long as it has time to dry.
Edited by hendrix - 11/6/12 at 9:36pmpost #4820 of 2245011/6/12 at 9:11pmpost #4821 of 2245011/6/12 at 9:19pmpost #4822 of 2245011/6/12 at 9:47pmpost #4823 of 2245011/6/12 at 11:40pmpost #4824 of 2245011/6/12 at 11:48pmQuote:
I had a serious talk with my dog when I got him. I said if I see 1 torn scratched or chewed piece of italian calf, newzealand lamb or suede, you're going to go live with my mom.
Little dude has never eaten a shoe, a pair of glasses or anything other than his toys.
He did put a small tear in my silk duvet cover with his claws, but I can live with that.post #4825 of 2245011/7/12 at 1:57amQuote:
to understand and use the term stupid you should first understand the notion of LIKE. please refer to the part in my post where i mention what i like or dislike!post #4826 of 2245011/7/12 at 2:47ampost #4827 of 2245011/7/12 at 9:36ampost #4828 of 2245011/7/12 at 1:11pmpost #4829 of 2245011/7/12 at 1:13pmpost #4830 of 2245011/7/12 at 5:05pm
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