I need to see the front of the insole. I'm looking for little "dimples" in the leather that would be an indication that the shoe is handwelted. Sometimes you can't see anyway (especially if they use a double insole or a full sockliner), so we might not be able to tell. Have a look anyway.
the third post explains it with some more pictures. Basically, moving the awl through the insole during hand welting makes little bumps on the surface of the insole. However, if there is a double insole or they use a full sockliner (as with Vass), you can't see the dimples .
Goodyear Welted Shoes
cross section diagram (most ones on the internet lie and don't show the canvas rib, instead they show a handwelted holdfast). I had to make my own one. The canvas rib in red. The welt is in grey.
If we took a cross section of inside a goodyear welted shoe, we'd see something like this:
You don't see stitching inside the insole because there is no stitch that runs through it.
the welt runs around the outside of the shoe and the outsole is stitched to it.
Important to note that, unlike with Goodyear welted shoes, the welt and upper are stitched directly to the insole. The holdfast is part of the insole, and is not a strip of canvas that is glued to the insole.
it's hard to draw a complete diagram, but carving the holdfast into the insole looks something like this:
Before the outsole is sewn on, but after the upper and welt have been stitched to the holdfast, it looks like this:
The welt running around the outside is stitched through the upper directly to that ridge, the holdfast of the insole.
Of course, once the outsole is sewn on, it's almost impossible to tell if the shoe is Goodyear or Handwelted, since there is no stitch that travels all the way through the insole in either construction.
However, handwelting the shoe - when you force an awl through the holdfast to make the holes - creates little dimples on the top surface of the insole, like this:
This is the big clue that tells you that the shoe is handwelted, not goodyear welted.
However, some makers will have a full sock liner, so you can't directly see the insole. In that case the only way of knowing for sure is to take off the sole and look.
I picked this all up from browsing MC. There's a lot of info there if you can wade through the trash.
I just pulled out all my boots and derbies and as far as I could tell, none of the Augustas, CCPs, Carpe, and MA+ have the dimples. Looks like the MA+ is blake stitch. one of my Carpe is also blake stitch.
Hendrix- I'll take pictures when my A1923s come back from the cobbler, but the derbies that AREM was carrying definitely had the dimples (or at least I could feel them when my hand was inside the toebox)
Okay whatever. Honestly, I don't care either. But I will point out that obscuring your source hardly helps your credibility.
That said I have some internet sources too:
"He was also very open about his process, and all of his sources and production seem to be very well-known in Italy. When other designers brag "these are made in the same factory as carpe diem" or "the same shoemaker as CCP" is because there are basically a handful of factories that make everything, and they are not exclusive. If you have designs and have money, they will take it, and you can write in all of your press releases that your clothes are made in the same factories as ma+." as posted by MikeNoveau in an excellent post summarizing his conversations with Altieri of Carpe Diem fame.
Won't find me regurgitating his words as gospel though because same as you he's just a person on the internet. But I wanted to share a different perspective and try and balance out unsubstantiated hype.
Edit: You do know that retailers primarily want to sell you things right?