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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.A.+, M Moria, Carpe Diem, etc..)
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The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.A.+, M Moria, Carpe Diem, etc..) - Page 1440

post #21586 of 22247

Back to Carpe Diem, which are IMHO still the most beautiful boots of all the brands ever discussed in this thread, mmoria included.

post #21587 of 22247

^ Carpe Diem in size 45 is almost impossible to find and low instep versions in 45 are quite hard to be worn for me while AA_dve 44 size of m_moria fits me just fine. I wish I was able to find more CDiems in 45.

post #21588 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexanderTG View Post

Invisible artisanal footwear.

Even God has to wait eight weeks for them.

So who'll be the one to point out that God's feet are bare :P?
post #21589 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by eckblk View Post

bb_tre arrived from Hide-M


finally some mmoria that i like
post #21590 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by uzairh View Post

/\ So where does one go after M_Moria?

In terms of price, you can go whereverthefuck you want, right? But is that what we really want to be talking about, or is it more about the other aspects of these boots/shoes? As many have noted, there are other artisans who are creating amazing things. People are increasingly hyped about Layer-0, for example (with good reason, IMO), and other artisans are also making themselves known here for things other than just their dizzying prices. 

So what makes a pair of boots/shoes truly valuable to you? Quality is subjective on some levels, and it is worth defining them here. Again.

post #21591 of 22247

Is there much of a difference in a size with laced derbies between Carpe Diem vs. m.a+, or is it really all based on the same lasts? Reason I ask is I try m.a+ in 42 and it fit way huge and then 41 in boots was too small. So I'm thinking in terms of instep and width, a 41 in derby will fit fine?

post #21592 of 22247
Picked up these Petrosolaum derbies yesterday. Dropped them off for rubber soles, so I'll post better pics later. Construction on Petrosolaum is amazing for the price, the handsewn Norwegian welts are crazy.

I wanted something relatively clean, so I picked these the black-stitched version of these. The leather is "horse butt," which I ASSUME is the non-shell hindquarters part of the horse (culatta?). Hard to tell from this picture, but the front of the shoe is heavily oiled, leading to a slightly matte texture. The oil will wear off and the black will fade to a darker grey in some areas, which can be undone by re-oiling the shoe. The heel area is slightly rougher with the slightest scarring in some areas.

Curious to see how these wear in, should be fun. I was going to do an order of another shell pair, but these caught my eye and fit perfectly, so I went with 'em.

post #21593 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by docdocgs View Post

In terms of price, you can go whereverthefuck you want, right? But is that what we really want to be talking about, or is it more about the other aspects of these boots/shoes? As many have noted, there are other artisans who are creating amazing things. People are increasingly hyped about Layer-0, for example (with good reason, IMO), and other artisans are also making themselves known here for things other than just their dizzying prices. 
So what makes a pair of boots/shoes truly valuable to you? Quality is subjective on some levels, and it is worth defining them here. Again.

It's not about the cost. Let's talk about what can be better for this niche. What is the way forward? What can be the next evolution or revolution?
While I have been praising Layer-0 for years (and not just for their shoes), I do not consider them to be 'after' M_Moria.

For years, many tried, but none could beat the original C. Diem pieces (IS, MA+, etc). But now, Altieri has shown the way. M_moria makes them all look and feel inferior in every way, including the designs. If C. Diem shoes are magical, then M_Moria are sorcerous.

We now have fully handmade shoes (except for the top stitching) with no metal, that are completely customizable. Where can we go from here? Not just in shoe manufacturing, but in concept and design.
post #21594 of 22247


uhoh.gif
post #21595 of 22247
Like the toeboxes. Those pullons(??) look especially nice. The zips are unfortunate. It's 2016. Why doesn't every brand of even marginal repute have cool tarnished chunky zips?
post #21596 of 22247
I think they're one-piece lace-ups that haven't had the laces, uh, installed yet
post #21597 of 22247
I hate the toe box on all of those, really disappointed with his recent shit.
post #21598 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by uzairh View Post


It's not about the cost. Let's talk about what can be better for this niche. What is the way forward? What can be the next evolution or revolution?
While I have been praising Layer-0 for years (and not just for their shoes), I do not consider them to be 'after' M_Moria.

For years, many tried, but none could beat the original C. Diem pieces (IS, MA+, etc). But now, Altieri has shown the way. M_moria makes them all look and feel inferior in every way, including the designs. If C. Diem shoes are magical, then M_Moria are sorcerous.

We now have fully handmade shoes (except for the top stitching) with no metal, that are completely customizable. Where can we go from here? Not just in shoe manufacturing, but in concept and design.

Gotcha, and thanks for the clarification. I was pretty sure you were speaking to more than cost, but that helps. 

 

I guess sometimes people can surprise us. Just as one could not have predicted that Altieri would have come up with the m_moriabc concept and its amazing execution after C.Diem, neither can one tell where any of the other designers/makers we like today are going to end up tomorrow. To take Alessio again as an example: he seems to be growing in terms of design and, very selectively, in terms of materials. Give him a couple of years and who knows where he'll be?

 

But I do wonder about the same thing you mention, this nebulous "next step." Maybe it looks different to different eyes. I think that there are probably some things we could probably (almost) all agree are important: quality of materials, solidity/build quality, hand-finishing (and hand-making), but there are these other, ineffable things, too, that catch our attention. And these things are more personal, I think. Simone, for example, tends to imbue his better pieces with a wabi sabi of which m_moriabc has little if any, and yet different as they are, I can really appreciate both. So quality is one thing, and style is another. 

 

As I write this, I start to think about the difference between a maker and a designer, and this may factor in to the discussion, too. If you have ever made something with your own hands, you then know the whole process, and you know once you see the final product where you could have done things differently, where you could improve next time, and you own it all, whereas the designer doesn't necessarily know where along the process something could be improved or innovated upon. So making every pair yourself has definite advantages (and obvious drawbacks).

 

Loose ramblings, to be sure, but these considerations interest me. Hell, some dude (or dudette) could come blowing in out of nowhere and rock our worlds with some new leather treatment, some new little tweak on stitching or lasting, that rocks our world. As a non-maker of footwear, I can't begin to imagine what that would look like, but that does seem to be the trend in art. And I'd love to see it happen. And be able to afford it!

post #21599 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by MickeyPunch View Post
 

Back to Carpe Diem, which are IMHO still the most beautiful boots of all the brands ever discussed in this thread, mmoria included.

And yet it's taking forever for me to sell my CDiems :fu:

post #21600 of 22247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohikaarme View Post
 

And yet it's taking forever for me to sell my CDiems :fu:

 

Are yours the ones that have been on grailed for like $450 since forever?

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