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The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.A.+, M Moria, Carpe Diem, etc..) - Page 1336post #20026 of 2288712/10/15 at 4:36pmpost #20027 of 2288712/10/15 at 4:41pmpost #20028 of 2288712/10/15 at 4:42pmThese were posted in 2012 but y'all were too busy posting about bison leather
ma+ also had some boots that had canvas uppers - came in a straight canvas version in addition to canvas over leatherpost #20029 of 2288712/10/15 at 5:33pm
I pretty much am, yeah. I'm willing to concede on the issue if it means, for example, having less of an environmental impact. So something well made that will last a long time and is resoleable will trump something vegan but poorly made. Aesthetics matter too, of course
Those look great, thanks. I'm also into a crazier version LN-CC had (but I guess you'd have to clean the cobwebs out of the laces???)post #20030 of 2288712/10/15 at 5:48pmAll these horses and cows are raised for meat not their skin though
So the leather is a by-product that would otherwise be wasted.
Impact is kind of close to zero?
I think that is why raw hides don't fetch much money
You are better off making sure that everything is oak(vegetable) tanned rather than chemical tanned (including the sole, if you want to go for a non-leather upper), as I believe the chemicals used are very environmentally harmful
EDIT: even better, make sure whatever you buy is second hand!post #20031 of 2288712/10/15 at 5:52pmQuote:
Nah you're still contributing to the industry though.
We can grow skin in a lab now. Shouldn't be long till we can have vegan real leather (will be prohibitively expensive though).post #20032 of 2288712/10/15 at 5:55pmMy wife's father owns a cattle farm, says the slaughterhouse only gets a couple of dollars for the skins. So the contribution to cattle farming industry is basically negligible
The main costs are associated with the processing (cleaning, tanning etc) of the leather, which is labour and infrastructure intensive
Seems a lot better than wasting electricity, water, raw materials etc on growing skin in a lab, and throwing these usable skins away
Unless nobody ate meat and we were only growing the animals for the express purpose of harvesting their skinpost #20033 of 2288712/10/15 at 6:46pmpost #20034 of 2288712/10/15 at 6:49pmpost #20035 of 2288712/10/15 at 6:49pmQuote:Originally Posted by hendrix
The upper isn't sewn to the welt on GY shoes, it's sewn to the gemming (as is the welt). Blake and handwelting both sew the upper directly to the insole. I don't see why this would put more tension on the upper than GY.
opinion as a consumer that if the shoes are more than about a grand they should be handwelted - but every company will have their own expenses and budget.
This is the way that I've always understand Goodyear welting to work, and what I've seen from cut open shoes:
I suppose that because the upper is stitched to several layers, that the stress is distributed? I honestly cannot say for certain, but ime, the upper is more likely, irl, to tear, in blake or blake rapid (I mean, they both use the blake stitch on the upper, so...) then on good year welted, footwear. It's possible that my experience is anomalous.
I know that DW insists that the gemming fails, and that Nick disagrees with him. ime, I've never seen the gemming fail - it's either the sole stitch that needs replacing, or the upper that tears. Most of the cases I've seen are from guys who wear their boots hard, doing wildland firefighting, or construction, etc...
Truthfully, I don't see the need for handwelting for most shoes, including shoes in the $1K+ cateogory. If I buy in that range, it's for style, treatments, interesting leathers, etc... Most shoemakers I know who handwelt use an awl and needle, rather than just a needle and hammer, which seems like a rather labor intensive way to do a double thread lock stitch.
I should emphasize that I am not a cordwainer or a cobbler, and that my role is usually just to ask "can we do this, because it would look really cool."post #20036 of 2288712/10/15 at 6:50pmpost #20037 of 2288712/10/15 at 6:58pmQuote:
I think that MA+ did some sort of canvas boot (with a leather sole) once.post #20038 of 2288712/10/15 at 7:25pmpost #20039 of 2288712/10/15 at 7:41pmpost #20040 of 2288712/10/15 at 8:04pmQuote:
Allegedly the next advancement in synthetic leather will be pineapple leather, made from leaves otherwise discarded by the pineapple industry. It’s said to be stronger, cheaper, and age better than leather, but who knows if any of that’s true. If I’m not mistaken, Tesla was looking into using it as an alternative option to leather seats.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks.
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