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The Official Artisanal "streetwear" footwear (boots, shoes, sandals) thread (Guidi, CCP, Augusta, M.A.+, M Moria, Carpe Diem, etc..) - Page 698post #10457 of 218883/29/14 at 5:43amQuote:Originally Posted by a bag of it
you guys really just threw a wrench into my whole decision making process. I think I like the guidi's more but it is hard to turn down higher quality shoes for less than the guidi's will cost.
Softer leather (kangaroo)
White sole edge
Less rigid construction
Lower heel(?) can someone confirm this?
(slightly) lower quality
perhaps less striking?
Won't get here until July
Smoother leather (cordovan)
Cheaper (by around $50)
Looks more yellowish to me
Extra long laces that wrap around (obviously not a huge deal)
Natural edge sole
Here is a picture for reference
Puh, this is bullshit. Cheaper means not lower quality.
Guidi = goodyear welted !!!
Layer-0 = blake welted => lower quality
From what i know only A1923, CCP and Guidi are goodyear welted. Right?post #10458 of 218883/29/14 at 7:25amThread Starterpost #10459 of 218883/29/14 at 7:35ampost #10460 of 218883/29/14 at 7:37amQuote:
This is a bit surprising, considering that even some cheap boots are goodyear welted (I have a pair of 200$ Sendra biker boots which have goodyear welt). Is it because goodyear welt in "fatto a mano" boots is much harder to do?post #10461 of 218883/29/14 at 9:23amOh the welting shit again. Guidi is Goodyear welted, layer 0, IS and MA+ are Blake welted, A1923 is hand welted, and I don't know about CCP. There is some variation, but this is the majority of what I see.
Now then. Quality wise, Blake stitching actually has less glue than Goodyear welting. It can be redone by a competing cobbler with a Blake machine. More importantly, especially for IS and MA+, Goodyear welts would look horrible for the aesthetic. Blake stitching is used because the aesthetic is about simplicity and the leather, and having a massive welt jutting out would throw a wrench in the works. Blake is different, but not worse, than Goodyear welting. Hand welting is better than both. We usually Vibram the boots and shoes in here anyway, so it doesn't matter.post #10462 of 218883/29/14 at 9:26ampost #10463 of 218883/29/14 at 9:28ampost #10464 of 218883/29/14 at 9:31ampost #10465 of 218883/29/14 at 9:47ampost #10466 of 218883/29/14 at 10:05ampost #10467 of 218883/29/14 at 11:51amI highly doubt that guidi is goodyear welted.
The difference between blake and good year in regards to styling really depends on how it's done. Though some of ma+ shoes could not have as clean of a line with goodyear, the double sole models could all have been done with good year (though the weren't). Just look at george cleverly or edward green goodyear welted lines to see how clean they can look.
Simone also said he worked for carpe diem, and that wasn't true. I don't believe they're hand welted.post #10468 of 218883/29/14 at 1:37pmpost #10469 of 218883/29/14 at 1:53pmpost #10470 of 218883/29/14 at 3:19pmFrom GBS- The designer of Augusta worked and trained as an assistant with Maurizio and has been able to benefit from all the resources, know-how and advantages doing so. Whether, he will be able to carve out his own truly individual thing and hang in there long enough to survive what many believe is the toughest business in the world...remains to be seen. He had a great master. Hopefully he was a good student. We wish him well.
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