Originally Posted by Despos
What you will find is "tailor" of the era we are in is more MTM than made in house type of custom work that most will think of when they think of a tailor. The CTDA did a survey in the late 80's early 90's of shops across the country offering custom clothing or clothing made to order. Less than 5% of the shops said they made the clothing on site, everything else was sent to a third party CTM house for manufacturing. Don't misinterpret what I am saying. Custom tailors are fewer than ever and replenishment is slow to nonexistent. With the demise of true custom makers the custom clothing realm absorbs the current methods (MTM) and "Custom tailor" defines a new breed of tailor or the "tailor" of the era. Clothing made by utilizing tape measure skills over pattern making, cutting and sewing. 50 years from now when you are scanned and clothing is totally created by computerized machinery the MTM guys will be saying the same thing. Like I said, I am not bashing anyone, just an observation of the state of things as I see it.
Fortunately, this is hardly the case in Italy (where the vast majority-90-95% of bespoke tailors are true bespoke tailors-actually, the truest bespoke tailors in every sense of the words). Italy currently has more true bespoke-actually, more in the way of the truest bespoke tailors than every other country in the world.