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Sartoria Gianni Volpe - Naples - Page 8

post #106 of 118
Thread Starter 
Yasu great stuff, congratulation. All look good.

On the wrinkles, I once asked directly the guy that was working the iron on jackets at Volpe 's sartoria, and his first advice was to find a good dry cleaner that offered hand pressing, and specifically ask to use minimum steam and always a thick cloth between the iron and the wool garment (to avoids shining) . After telling him that is rare in England to find dry cleaners who know how to hand press, and reassuring him that I was quite competent with my Polti Vaporella iron, he told me to source an heavy cotton cloth (sourced a thick cotton drill-white), an iron where steam can be regulated to a minimum (my Vaporella had his full approval as is in fact a semi professional iron), and possibly a sleeve board and/or a tightly rolled bath towel, for the sleeves , shoulders, and other rounded parts. I use both a sleeve board and a rolled towel.

So either find a competent dry cleaner and discuss the above; or a competent hand presser and again discuss the above, or if you are a confident ironer yourself, follow the above.
post #107 of 118
Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?
post #108 of 118
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?

Mr Volpe won't travel to USA. He regularly travel to Rome and Milan other then receiving in Naples, and has been coming to London over the last two years, but going forward these trips are becoming rarer due to the low order per trip ratio as I understood.
As I understand, Volpe has shirts made by different shirtmakers all the time, an although I asked him several times who he would recommend, was always wary of suggesting someone in particular adding that some time he had to sort the shirt fitting issues himself. However, once we were in the Marinella boutique in London, an discussing shirtmakers with some Marinella/Volpe clients, and both Volpe ad the Marinella Manager, as well a clothing rep from Naples, had only good things to say about Lombardi (I was wearing one of his shirt) and went as far as saying that he was peraphs the only true shirtmaker left in Naples (Un vero Camiciaio).
post #109 of 118
Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?
post #110 of 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?

Marco, i am also curious about his DB's. I also didnt know that Sgr Volpe offered bespoke shirts. Is that by his camiciaio friend Alberto?
post #111 of 118
Th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?

Thanks for the complements, Brian. It is hard to find volpe's quality at his price range. Definitely worth trying if you have time.
post #112 of 118
Thread Starter 
Bespoke51,

Outside of marketing stories, internet undue hype, etc, Lombardi is a true third generation shirtmaker, and in his office there is a proud record of an official document from the Kingdom of Italy issued to his grandfather. He was a shirtmaker himself before many others even came on to the scene. He is well regarded by the Neapolitan tailoring industry, not some internet hype or marketing campaign. I have tried many Neapolitan shirtmakers including Satriano, and overall I agree with the reputation Luciano Lombardi has among the industry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?
post #113 of 118
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasu10s View Post

Marco, i am also curious about his DB's. I also didnt know that Sgr Volpe offered bespoke shirts. Is that by his camiciaio friend Alberto?
Sorry Yasu, I meant the shirts Volpe wear himself, not that he makes them for clients. I am too young still for DB I feel, so I have not yet explored DB, but there is a picture I posted earlier with a DB hunging from the ceiling (also the guy with white hair is the one that I talked to about ironing ;-)
post #114 of 118
Just found a few pictures of Gianni Volpe DB jackets worn by GV himself, on marco's blog Gentleman Napoletano. I previously had never seen pics of his DB jackets but now I am tempted to get a few![IMG][IMG]
post #115 of 118



Source: http://gentleman-napoletano.tumblr.com
post #116 of 118
Thread Starter 
I was in Naples last week and ordered a pair of bespoke chinos in a Brisbane Moss cotton drill cut I had for a while, forward double pleats, 5 cm waistband with double buttons, side tabs and no belt loops, one back pocket, and 4.5 cm turn up cuffs. I will take other pictures later, but these came out really great:
post #117 of 118

Hi Marco,

 

Awesome trousers. I was thinking to commission something similar for myself from Sig. Volpe in navy cotton and two questions came to mind, maybe you know:

 

It's the traditional neapolitan style to cut a wide waistband like the one you requested and those ones that can be seen on the Internet from other neapolitan tailors/trouser-makers? Normally you see 3.5 cm in RTW.

 

Has Gianni Volpe access to a wide range of cloths? I was also thinking on a medium grey herringbone jacket made of Harrison's Moonbeam as default.

 

 

Thanks in advance,

post #118 of 118
Thread Starter 
Hi Aristoi,

Thanks.

Re. Waistband : I do not think is traditional at all. I just wanted to try this configuration for these specific trousers. I will use them this summer, without a jacket, so wanted to add some visual interest to them.

I may however opt for future wool and/or suit trousers cut the same way.

With regards to cloth, yes he has direct access to a wide range of cloths, and has an account with Harrisons of Edinburgh but only has selected books on site as he sell very little of them as I understand. Most of his customer tend to order stuff in Holand & Sherry, Dormeuil, Etc... Plus he has Caccioppoli just opposite to his Sartoria, with direct access to their stockrooms... If you know the exact reference number of the Harrison fabric, he will order it for you.

Ciao

Quote:
Originally Posted by aristoi bcn View Post

Hi Marco,

Awesome trousers. I was thinking to commission something similar for myself from Sig. Volpe in navy cotton and two questions came to mind, maybe you know:

It's the traditional neapolitan style to cut a wide waistband like the one you requested and those ones that can be seen on the Internet from other neapolitan tailors/trouser-makers? Normally you see 3.5 cm in RTW.

Has Gianni Volpe access to a wide range of cloths? I was also thinking on a medium grey herringbone jacket made of Harrison's Moonbeam as default.


Thanks in advance,
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