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Sartoria Gianni Volpe - Naples - Page 8

post #106 of 119
Thread Starter 
Yasu great stuff, congratulation. All look good.

On the wrinkles, I once asked directly the guy that was working the iron on jackets at Volpe 's sartoria, and his first advice was to find a good dry cleaner that offered hand pressing, and specifically ask to use minimum steam and always a thick cloth between the iron and the wool garment (to avoids shining) . After telling him that is rare in England to find dry cleaners who know how to hand press, and reassuring him that I was quite competent with my Polti Vaporella iron, he told me to source an heavy cotton cloth (sourced a thick cotton drill-white), an iron where steam can be regulated to a minimum (my Vaporella had his full approval as is in fact a semi professional iron), and possibly a sleeve board and/or a tightly rolled bath towel, for the sleeves , shoulders, and other rounded parts. I use both a sleeve board and a rolled towel.

So either find a competent dry cleaner and discuss the above; or a competent hand presser and again discuss the above, or if you are a confident ironer yourself, follow the above.
post #107 of 119
Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?
post #108 of 119
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?

Mr Volpe won't travel to USA. He regularly travel to Rome and Milan other then receiving in Naples, and has been coming to London over the last two years, but going forward these trips are becoming rarer due to the low order per trip ratio as I understood.
As I understand, Volpe has shirts made by different shirtmakers all the time, an although I asked him several times who he would recommend, was always wary of suggesting someone in particular adding that some time he had to sort the shirt fitting issues himself. However, once we were in the Marinella boutique in London, an discussing shirtmakers with some Marinella/Volpe clients, and both Volpe ad the Marinella Manager, as well a clothing rep from Naples, had only good things to say about Lombardi (I was wearing one of his shirt) and went as far as saying that he was peraphs the only true shirtmaker left in Naples (Un vero Camiciaio).
post #109 of 119
Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?
post #110 of 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?

Marco, i am also curious about his DB's. I also didnt know that Sgr Volpe offered bespoke shirts. Is that by his camiciaio friend Alberto?
post #111 of 119
Th
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Yasu, all are fantastic! I'm curious, does Sr. Volpe use or recommend a particular shirtmaker? Also, does he ever visit the US?

Thanks for the complements, Brian. It is hard to find volpe's quality at his price range. Definitely worth trying if you have time.
post #112 of 119
Thread Starter 
Bespoke51,

Outside of marketing stories, internet undue hype, etc, Lombardi is a true third generation shirtmaker, and in his office there is a proud record of an official document from the Kingdom of Italy issued to his grandfather. He was a shirtmaker himself before many others even came on to the scene. He is well regarded by the Neapolitan tailoring industry, not some internet hype or marketing campaign. I have tried many Neapolitan shirtmakers including Satriano, and overall I agree with the reputation Luciano Lombardi has among the industry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bespoke 51 View Post

Marco, Thanks for your informative reply. With regard to Lombardi being perhaps the last true Neapolitan shirtmaker, some might argue that Matuozzo should be considered. Recently, I have heard good things about Satriano Cinque. Would love to hear from any members who have experience with them. Lastly, the SB Volpe cuts is gorgeous. What is his DB model like?
post #113 of 119
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasu10s View Post

Marco, i am also curious about his DB's. I also didnt know that Sgr Volpe offered bespoke shirts. Is that by his camiciaio friend Alberto?
Sorry Yasu, I meant the shirts Volpe wear himself, not that he makes them for clients. I am too young still for DB I feel, so I have not yet explored DB, but there is a picture I posted earlier with a DB hunging from the ceiling (also the guy with white hair is the one that I talked to about ironing ;-)
post #114 of 119
Just found a few pictures of Gianni Volpe DB jackets worn by GV himself, on marco's blog Gentleman Napoletano. I previously had never seen pics of his DB jackets but now I am tempted to get a few![IMG][IMG]
post #115 of 119



Source: http://gentleman-napoletano.tumblr.com
post #116 of 119
Thread Starter 
I was in Naples last week and ordered a pair of bespoke chinos in a Brisbane Moss cotton drill cut I had for a while, forward double pleats, 5 cm waistband with double buttons, side tabs and no belt loops, one back pocket, and 4.5 cm turn up cuffs. I will take other pictures later, but these came out really great:
post #117 of 119

Hi Marco,

 

Awesome trousers. I was thinking to commission something similar for myself from Sig. Volpe in navy cotton and two questions came to mind, maybe you know:

 

It's the traditional neapolitan style to cut a wide waistband like the one you requested and those ones that can be seen on the Internet from other neapolitan tailors/trouser-makers? Normally you see 3.5 cm in RTW.

 

Has Gianni Volpe access to a wide range of cloths? I was also thinking on a medium grey herringbone jacket made of Harrison's Moonbeam as default.

 

 

Thanks in advance,

post #118 of 119
Thread Starter 
Hi Aristoi,

Thanks.

Re. Waistband : I do not think is traditional at all. I just wanted to try this configuration for these specific trousers. I will use them this summer, without a jacket, so wanted to add some visual interest to them.

I may however opt for future wool and/or suit trousers cut the same way.

With regards to cloth, yes he has direct access to a wide range of cloths, and has an account with Harrisons of Edinburgh but only has selected books on site as he sell very little of them as I understand. Most of his customer tend to order stuff in Holand & Sherry, Dormeuil, Etc... Plus he has Caccioppoli just opposite to his Sartoria, with direct access to their stockrooms... If you know the exact reference number of the Harrison fabric, he will order it for you.

Ciao

Quote:
Originally Posted by aristoi bcn View Post

Hi Marco,

Awesome trousers. I was thinking to commission something similar for myself from Sig. Volpe in navy cotton and two questions came to mind, maybe you know:

It's the traditional neapolitan style to cut a wide waistband like the one you requested and those ones that can be seen on the Internet from other neapolitan tailors/trouser-makers? Normally you see 3.5 cm in RTW.

Has Gianni Volpe access to a wide range of cloths? I was also thinking on a medium grey herringbone jacket made of Harrison's Moonbeam as default.


Thanks in advance,
post #119 of 119
Thread Starter 
With regards to a recent discussion in another thread, member @WeakMonday had a three piece made (from his post somewhere else on the forum and the net):

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakMonday View Post

Gianni Volpe

My experience with Gianni Volpe first started off with some back and forth emails (best english response from the 6-7 Neapolitan tailors I emailed).  He has an online assistant that is (to my eye) very fluent in written English, and just the way she typed out the emails was extremely professional.  Through her I was able to easily order the fabric that I wanted for a three piece suit (Dormeuil Tonik in that blue that all the cool people have).  My wife gave me a bit of grief for getting another blue piece and will now be an integral part of my future fabric choosing process (this may be my last blue tailored piece ever if she has her way).

This experience has significantly less photos because my handsign that we wanted to take pictures during the first meeting didn't signal to Volpe that we wanted to hang out for 10 hours documenting the entire process (I need to learn Italian obviously). 

During the initial meeting we discussed the details of the suit.  Gianni Volpe has a seamstress (or something I dunno) who can speak better English than my Italian so she provided some translations.

I wanted a single breasted suit three piece suit... and then "spalla piu larghe."  That is italian for wide shoulders (thanks David).  I showed him a picture of the blue check jacket I saw from Pirozzi.  He said ok.  This ended up getting me a 3 roll 2.5 jacket (I originally wanted a 3 roll 2 but I didn't know the Italian for that... but I am really happy with the 3 roll 2.5 and will probably go with those moving forward).

He asked what kind of vest I wanted.  I said single breasted.  He said double.  So I said ok.

I showed him a picture of the pants style i wanted.  One forward pleat.  He called them french pants and said ok.

The schedule:
January 16th - meeting, measurements

January 19th - basted fitting one sleeve (i requested a second fitting the next day for both sleeves)

January 20th - second fitting in the morning... (I missed a potential third fitting at night because I didn't have data... sadly my iphone 6 was locked)

January 21st - meeting in early morning to double check jacket, come back after three hours for finished jacket (Volpe wasn't there, but the other tailors there were really proud of the jacket and wanted to add some double stitching to it to which I said ok)

Now for some pictures
measuring


taking notes... note my fabric on the table and the espresso (all the tailors I met get their espresso hand delivered)



first fitting



second fitting



 





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