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Shoulder expression - Page 7

post #91 of 96
12/14/11 at 10:35am
I have a question about the top seam on the shoulder, that is the seam which runs (usually) straight from the collar base across the top of the shoulder to the sleeve set-in at the edge of the shoulder. All my suits had a fairly straight seam until I purchased an Isaia from Sartorial (Gabor) which had this seam which curved toward the back of the jacket and so meets the sleeve set-in not at the top of the shoulder, but well behind. I thought ol' Gabor had sold me a second- or at least a strangely altered jacket as New Without Tags until Iwent to the local center of sartorial excellence and saw that about 1/3 of the Isaia suit jackets had the curved top seam on the shoulder. I bought a Cucinelli sportcoat from YOOX and bang- the same curving top seam- which is not on any of my previously purchased Cucinelli suits or jackets. Does anyone know why this curving top seam is on the march ? I can't really say that I like it- it makes the vertical profile of the jacket look all out of kilter.
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post #92 of 96
12/14/11 at 12:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrengardner View Post

I have a question about the top seam on the shoulder, that is the seam which runs (usually) straight from the collar base across the top of the shoulder to the sleeve set-in at the edge of the shoulder. All my suits had a fairly straight seam until I purchased an Isaia from Sartorial (Gabor) which had this seam which curved toward the back of the jacket and so meets the sleeve set-in not at the top of the shoulder, but well behind. I thought ol' Gabor had sold me a second- or at least a strangely altered jacket as New Without Tags until Iwent to the local center of sartorial excellence and saw that about 1/3 of the Isaia suit jackets had the curved top seam on the shoulder. I bought a Cucinelli sportcoat from YOOX and bang- the same curving top seam- which is not on any of my previously purchased Cucinelli suits or jackets. Does anyone know why this curving top seam is on the march ? I can't really say that I like it- it makes the vertical profile of the jacket look all out of kilter.

It is a style choice. See this thread, this thread and this thread for much more detailed explanation.
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post #93 of 96
12/15/11 at 6:27am
Thankyou for the illuminating articles. William Powell, quite the icon as the Thin Man, was indeed a thin man and I think the curved seam works best, if at all, for those who are built as a "starvling, an eel-skin, a dried neat's tongue, a bull's pizzle, a stock-fish, a tailor's yard, a sheath, a bow-case or a vile standing-tuck "
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post #94 of 96
12/15/11 at 4:19pm

I saw this post mentioned in PTO, it is clear, concise and excellent.

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post #95 of 96
1/5/12 at 9:34am

Thank you for this post. As a new member, and one who currently still wears off the rack clothing, I appreciate this information. It will come in handy when I do finally manage to make the switch to bespoke clothing. It's just a matter of time because anything I purchase needs extensive alterations anyway. I have to buy size 48 coats and have them altered to fit a 34" waist so I think made to order is really my best option.

In response to an earlier question about why some of us still buy off the rack; for me it's a matter of price. As an unemployed father with four children I shop for sales. Made to order clothing never goes on sale.

 

Darrel Morris

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post #96 of 96
1/7/12 at 7:49pm
Thanks for the illuminating discussion. My only remaining question is whether the choice among the various shoulder expressions is a functional difference or merely a visual one.
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