Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria 
You are confusing imaginary things with real things.
What jefferyd usefully describes as "shoulder expression" is different from shoulder padding. All shoulder expressions can be padded. Or not. A roped shoulder can be padded. Or not. A natural shoulder can be padded. Or not. And a shirtsleeve shoulder can be padded. Or not. And so on. The two elements work in concert with the cut, fabric, and chest constuction to make up what we see as the shoulder.
Some of these shoulder expressions are associated with specific styles that may or may not typically use padding or wadding. That is a different thing altogether. For example, the more specific form of the phrase "natural shoulder" as used in American collegiate style involves a pressed seam at the shoulder with shoulder padding.
Virtually no on on SF wears an unpadded shoulder. Very few jackets posted are made with nothing in the shoulder, and most of the ones so made that are shown here are very casual, often summertime, jackets.
The OP has taken apart Savile Row jackets from many makers and probably the least important difference among them was the marginal differences in shoulder padding. All of them...even Dege and Huntsman...tend to be rather minimalist in their approach compared to what remains common in cheaper RTW with their spongy shoulder pads made to fit no particular man.
Why does it seem that the vast number of tens of men (do you think that the number has even gotten to 100 yet? really?) out of the thousands and thousands of SF members (many of whom have never posted a photograph) have sought out more softly made bespoke clothes?
No guesses other than that they are all idiots? Really?
- B
What jefferyd usefully describes as "shoulder expression" is different from shoulder padding. All shoulder expressions can be padded. Or not. A roped shoulder can be padded. Or not. A natural shoulder can be padded. Or not. And a shirtsleeve shoulder can be padded. Or not. And so on. The two elements work in concert with the cut, fabric, and chest constuction to make up what we see as the shoulder.
Some of these shoulder expressions are associated with specific styles that may or may not typically use padding or wadding. That is a different thing altogether. For example, the more specific form of the phrase "natural shoulder" as used in American collegiate style involves a pressed seam at the shoulder with shoulder padding.
Virtually no on on SF wears an unpadded shoulder. Very few jackets posted are made with nothing in the shoulder, and most of the ones so made that are shown here are very casual, often summertime, jackets.
The OP has taken apart Savile Row jackets from many makers and probably the least important difference among them was the marginal differences in shoulder padding. All of them...even Dege and Huntsman...tend to be rather minimalist in their approach compared to what remains common in cheaper RTW with their spongy shoulder pads made to fit no particular man.
Why does it seem that the vast number of tens of men (do you think that the number has even gotten to 100 yet? really?) out of the thousands and thousands of SF members (many of whom have never posted a photograph) have sought out more softly made bespoke clothes?
No guesses other than that they are all idiots? Really?
- B
