Shoulder expression - Page 2

great post jeffery.

speaking of - i have always been curious as to how one achieves a pagoda shoulder.

my uninformed guess is that the basic ingredients are a high collar, light to non-existent padding (maybe a bit as you get close to the shoulder to straighten things out), and a bit of roping.

how wrong am i?

TIA.

Fantastic explanation!

And another note, at least around here, attempts to adjust the suit from the shoulders will probably run about ~$100.

Am getting a roped shoulder for my next commission; this was a useful read. Thanks.

A torrent of tears? Might that not cause unwanted shrinkage?

There's a lot more to it than that, you should read the Pagoda Shoulders posts on Jeffery's blog for more information.

Great poast. I think it is safe to say that not every tailor has the same terminology when referring to certain suit attributes. So, knowing how to articulate differences in shoulder as opposed to sleeve cap is very important when dealing with your tailor. I feel that the amount of wadding in the sleevehead can change the look of the shoulder quite a bit and mask some of these textbook cases Jeffery has described.

Also a certain term could mean something very different to one tailor vs. another. There is a great thread in the London Lounge on the crooked vs. straight debate that blew my mind. Nothing like a bunch of experts discussing the same terminology to mean different things.

The crook v. straight thread on LL was not tailor vs. lay "expert." It was tailor v. tailor.

jeffreyd delivers again!!

Great post.

It started with a Tom Mahon blog post on his own blog. Len Logsdail thought that it was innacurate and said so on LL. It was all very polite. I did not come away understanding what either crooked or straight really meant. I thought I did before I read the thread but didn't by the end.

However, all the tailors I have worked with say that I need a crooked coat.

Edwin had some good illustrations in there as well. I think Len made it kind of easy to tell the difference based on the angle that pinstripes approach the skye. The more straight the stripes the straighter the shoulder point, the more pitched towards the skye the more crooked..