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A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread - Page 211

post #3151 of 5182
Great pics today guys, as always! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Let's take a break from the tie discussion for a second and talk pocket squares. Anyone care to educate me on the different types of white linen squares Hober offers? I see there are a couple types of Carlo Riva white linen available. Which one would be the basic/standard? I'm guessing "Arsenal"? Is the Carlo Riva fabric worth the extra $10 over the Belgian linen? From the pic, it almost looks as if the Belgian is sort of an off white color and has a rougher texture compared to the Carlo Riva Arsenal. Finally, what do you guys think of the 15"x15" standard size of Hober squares? The only other white linen squares I've owned are 12"x12", from another forum favorite maker, but I can never seem to get the TV fold right with that size. Fold it in thirds and it's a smidgen too wide for the pocket; fold it in quarters and it's a bit skimpy. I'm thinking the larger Hober square will make for a better fold.
post #3152 of 5182
^ Flyswatter - I have the Belgian linen square. It is white (not off-white) and has some texture (not rough though). Unfortunately I can't compare to the Carlos Riva square as I don't have one of those. The Belgian is a pretty substantial square and folds a nice tv fold.
post #3153 of 5182
I also have the Belgian linen square. It's my only white square for non-black tie situations (I have a Drakes silk textured square for black tie). I use it once a week and just use the stuff and go method, so I can't speak to the tv-foldability.

But, it's a very nice linen, a little stiffer than the others I have. I have other linen squares in different colors from other makers. Hober does a relatively tight hand rolling of the edges.
post #3154 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by wohwoh View Post

If I were to have only one tie to wear with a charcoal suit, which one would you fellas recommend me?

I will only be wearing a tie when going to job interviews. I might get a second tie later down the road.

Right now, I'm thinking this will one will do just fine:

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-solid-silk-ties/navy-grenadine-grossa-silk-tie-10.html

Opinions?

I personally prefer the navy fina #10.
post #3155 of 5182
Hi Gents,

1) What's a good tie construction / fabric for full windsor knots?

2) I'm not a big fan of small knots, but would a 4-in-hand-knot from grenadine ties look bigger than standard ties? I hardly button up the top button from my dress shirts, so I need a bigger knot to obscure the loose button (that's why I prefer the full windsor)

Thanks.
post #3156 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

Hi Gents,

1) What's a good tie construction / fabric for full windsor knots?

2) I'm not a big fan of small knots, but would a 4-in-hand-knot from grenadine ties look bigger than standard ties? I hardly button up the top button from my dress shirts, so I need a bigger knot to obscure the loose button (that's why I prefer the full windsor)

Thanks.

1: No idea

2: That depends what you compare it with, and also which grenadine. My experience is that grossa will knot bigger than fina for example as they weave is bigger and therefore ends up "fluffier" to use that expression. And there's no such thing as "standard" ties as it depends entirely on the fabric. Satin in my experience will knot quite small, while many of the english pattern ties will knot much much bigger. I myself have the houndstooths and they form quite large knots, as do some of the plaids. It all depends on the thickness (and stiffness) of the fabric, and this will vary from weave to weave.

Personally I'm not a fan of small knots either, but I don't want them oversized. I usually go for 6'fold construction and I've never had the knot come out too small with any fabric. The only "surprise" I've had has been with english satin which came out more slender than I'd have thought when I got it in 3-fold, but I certainly wouldn't call it undersized, and once I got used to the more delicate look I love it.

I should think that if you went for a grenadine grossa with 6-fold, you'd gett a bigger knot than most of the other ties, but if you really want a big knot the very easy solution to this is simply to ask david to put an extra thick lining into the tie. The windsor knot is named after the duke of windsor, but the duke never tied with a windsor knot himself. He used a regular 4-in hand, but he had his ties made with extra thick lining so that there was just that much more fabric in the knot so it looked big. The windsor knot was just the poor-man's imitation of the duke's big knots, the only way they knew how to get it big enough with ready made ties.
post #3157 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

Hi Gents,

2) I'm not a big fan of small knots, but would a 4-in-hand-knot from grenadine ties look bigger than standard ties? I hardly button up the top button from my dress shirts, so I need a bigger knot to obscure the loose button (that's why I prefer the full windsor)

Thanks.

Might I suggest a MTM shirt so you can both button the top button, but feel comfortable physically doing it.

I have a thicker neck than my body size in standard shirtings. I had the choice of fitting in the body or the neck, so I went MTM and now everything fits and is comfortable.
post #3158 of 5182
In my experience, David's ties, in standard construction, in a variety of fabrics, are suitable for various types of knots. I very seldom tie a FIH knot.
post #3159 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

Hi Gents,

1) What's a good tie construction / fabric for full windsor knots?

2) I'm not a big fan of small knots, but would a 4-in-hand-knot from grenadine ties look bigger than standard ties? I hardly button up the top button from my dress shirts, so I need a bigger knot to obscure the loose button (that's why I prefer the full windsor)

Thanks.

I only tie 4IH, so can't speak to a Windsor. Stitches ties the best half Windsor around, he might weigh in on his construction options. In fact, i was surprised when i learned his knots are HW. But the best method is to email David and begin the dialogue. As his post above shows, he knows how to shape a tie to his customer's liking. Good luck and post pics when you get the tie(s).

Ps, I agree you should get a proper fitting shirt. Ties of this quality deserve a quality frame.
post #3160 of 5182

Today's Hober is the english stripe #11 (3-fold construction).

 

post #3161 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkpanther View Post

Today's Hober is the english stripe #11 (3-fold construction).



Lovely fabric on your jacket. Is that off the rack? If not please provide cloth details.
post #3162 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkpanther View Post

^ Flyswatter - I have the Belgian linen square. It is white (not off-white) and has some texture (not rough though). Unfortunately I can't compare to the Carlos Riva square as I don't have one of those. The Belgian is a pretty substantial square and folds a nice tv fold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scurvyfreedman View Post

I also have the Belgian linen square. It's my only white square for non-black tie situations (I have a Drakes silk textured square for black tie). I use it once a week and just use the stuff and go method, so I can't speak to the tv-foldability.

But, it's a very nice linen, a little stiffer than the others I have. I have other linen squares in different colors from other makers. Hober does a relatively tight hand rolling of the edges.

Gentlemen, thanks for your replies. David also confirmed that the Belgian is white and not off-white, and that it's a bit stiffer than the Carlo Riva linen. Think I'll go with Belgian. smile.gif
post #3163 of 5182
Quote:
Originally Posted by GucciKid View Post

Lovely fabric on your jacket. Is that off the rack? If not please provide cloth details.

Thank you sir! The suit was MTO and not off the rack. The fabric is from Vitale Barberis Canonico (Super 140s). Not sure of the actual weight.
post #3164 of 5182
Just wanted to say how great dealing with Hober is again. Had to rush a pocket square on a Friday order and its already on its way via DHL.
post #3165 of 5182

i am in the midst of redoing my wardrobe and basically donated all my old suits, ties, and dress shoes to the thrift stores.

 

currently, i don't wear suits very often... but did get a nice MTO suit in a dark navy.  i have a several custom dress shirts in variations of whites and blues.  i am interested in picking up a couple of Sam Hober grenadine ties to go along with it.  

 

i was thinking a Navy Grenadine Fina #10 and a Burgundy Grenadine Fina #3?!?  Should I stick with the "default" 4 fold construction -or- go with the 6-fold construction?  because of change of my role at work, i anticipate wearing more suits and will most likely be adding to the wardrobe.  i would just like to spend the extra $$$ to add quality items to my wardrobe.  

 

anyhow, i am kinda rambling on here.... so thanks for any thoughts or advice!

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