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Length: I am 5'10, althetic built, 72kg. Trousers with normal rise, normal length of torso. After reading this whole thread, I lean to go for 59' for the tie i plan to make a FIH knot. I will use the SH tool to verify. Does the length sounds about right to you? Do I have to add an inch or so for the double FIH?
Width: the largest lapel width of my suit is 3.5'. Given my built mentioned above and the style I like (classic, a bit traditional, avoidance of fashion forward), I am tempted to go for 3.75' wide tie. Am I too aggressive and should I go for 3.5' as a start? If I want to buy both grenadine and normal silk ties, is there a preference to go for wider in either of the Frabic?
Color and Frabic - this is clearer fo me. My current ties are mainly plain navy, gray, and black with pattern. I need more interestig navy to go with my plain gray and navy suits for business use. I prefer to go for a grenadine dark navy to use the texture to differentiate from my current navy ties (they are of normal silk). I did not choose SH grendaline navy because it is a bit too bright of a blue to me to be very versatile according to some action photos posted earlier. Any inputs? Also, I am indecisive on grossa or fina or others in the grenadine group.
Another tie I am thinking is for adding some spice to my navy/ gray look. I like both deep brownish/ greenish colors. But the later is less versatile to me. For brownish, i am sitting on the fence for bungundy and dark/ bitter chocolate (dark red is out as it is too managerial for small potato like me). Since browish is new color to me, I will go for the normal silk Frabic to be prudent. I will also avoid the dressy Satin for daily business attire. Could anyone recommend me a choice of plain brownish and the Frabic?
Sounds like you're on the right track.
As for tie dimensions, I'm the same height as you and specified my first order of Hober ties a few months ago to be 59". I've since done some experimenting and as my tastes have evolved, I now prefer ties that are 60-61". This leaves the back blade about an inch shorter than the front blade for me (I tie a four-in-hand), which is probably a bit closer than most would prefer, but it's what I like. I just think it adds a bit of subtle character and panache when the back blade peeks out from behind the front occasionally. I don't use the keeper, either. I may even experiment with an inch longer on a future tie, so that both blades end up approximately the same length.
In regard to width, I'm like you in that I prefer classical proportions and dislike trendy slim ties. I've ordered Hober ties in 3.5, 3 5/8, and 3.75" widths. It's amazing the difference even an eighth of an inch can make in the overall appearance of the tie (to my own eye, anyway). It was fun to experiment, but I've decided I prefer 3.5 inches. Not too slim, not too wide, and works well with my jacket proportions (size 44, 4.5 inch lapels on my recent MTM suits).
I am a huge fan of grenadine ties (who on this site isn't?) and David's are some of the best. Personally, I prefer the fina weave, but I might be in a minority on that. I really like solid colored ties, and the rich texture of grenadines is a great way to add visual interest. Hober grenadines I've purchased include navy, dark red, dark chocolate, and burgundy, all fina. I'd like to purchase black and maybe forest green sometime in the future, among others. You mentioned you are on the fence deciding between dark and bitter chocolate, but don't want to get a grenadine since you've never worn brown ties before, if I follow. I say go for the grenadine anyway. Can't go wrong with the dark or bitter fina, though my preference is for the slightly lighter "dark chocolate". The burgundy fina is a beautiful tie as well. It's a very rich, deep wine color, and in some lighting might even look brownish. But that's the color I prefer for burgundy.
Anyway, YMMV. Whatever you end up selecting, know that you will receive quality ties and superb service from David. Ordering custom ties can be addicting. And be careful not to become to obsessive when deciding on dimensions, construction options, etc.
Edited by Flyswatter - 5/26/13 at 11:04pm