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A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread - Page 98

post #1456 of 5264

For those playing along at home and considering bespeaking ties by mail without the aid of a professional and a good mirror, here is a pro tip: order the same tie, preferably a solid, but not too dark, as it has the illusion of looking slimmer than its dimensions (try a medium brown, it will be easy to pair with your existing wardrobe when you conduct the test) in maybe three to five differing widths and lengths.

 

Go for the cheapest construction option and collect your four nominally identical ties. Test them out in sequence to determine which dimensions look best on you. When finished, give the experimental ties away as gifts and resume ordering your new ties with the dimensions you know to work.

 

*It is advised to have nailed down a good shirt and suit pattern before doing this as it can skew your results greatly.

post #1457 of 5264

^ What?

 

You can also just ask David for his advice. He is very sharp.

post #1458 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

^ What?

You can also just ask David for his advice. He is very sharp.

And helpful, as is the website:

http://www.samhober.com/customties/custommadetieguide.htm
post #1459 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

 

Interesting. I am at least an order of magnitude shorter and slimmer than you, and when I bespeak ties I get them at 141 or 142 cm. And 8.5cm or so. I prefer the more European approach to the length, with the widest part of the blade hitting the top of the waistband and the tip protruding below, however. Color me surprised. 55'' is by my reckoning definitely a short-man's length. You must wear your clothes slim or else like a very classically proportioned tie (i.e. pre 1950) that is visually compressed and sits above the waistline. Or else I am doing something wrong. I associate a tie that is bang-on with the waistband or higher with American trad conventions, but that is just me.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

For those playing along at home and considering bespeaking ties by mail without the aid of a professional and a good mirror, here is a pro tip: order the same tie, preferably a solid, but not too dark, as it has the illusion of looking slimmer than its dimensions (try a medium brown, it will be easy to pair with your existing wardrobe when you conduct the test) in maybe three to five differing widths and lengths.

 

Go for the cheapest construction option and collect your four nominally identical ties. Test them out in sequence to determine which dimensions look best on you. When finished, give the experimental ties away as gifts and resume ordering your new ties with the dimensions you know to work.

 

*It is advised to have nailed down a good shirt and suit pattern before doing this as it can skew your results greatly.

 

That is quite strange as I've worn my first Hober enough times to realise it's 1.5 inch too long for me.  Ideally, my tie would hit between the centre and bottom of my waistband but this one extends about half an inch beneath the bottom of the waistband with both blades the same length.

 

I would say the width of your tie should just be relative to the length of your tie.  Taller/wider men will have longer lengths of material down their front so need a wider tie to balance the proportions.  Bespeaking four identical ties just to realise this doesn't seem necessary.  Better to follow David's instructions and order one tie initially before making any minor tweaks for future commissions.

post #1460 of 5264

I received an order of a couple ties (solid grenadine and pindot) and a pocket square about a week ago and I'm quite impressed. The ties feel nice and make good knots/dimples, and the pocket square has nicely rolled edges, everything to the dimensions I asked.

post #1461 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

^ What?

 

You can also just ask David for his advice. He is very sharp.

Oh, of course! I just meant more generally when working with other tiemakers. Systematizing it saves some heartache.

But you are in good hands with David and that process wouldn't be necessary.

post #1462 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodking View Post

 

 

That is quite strange as I've worn my first Hober enough times to realise it's 1.5 inch too long for me.  Ideally, my tie would hit between the centre and bottom of my waistband but this one extends about half an inch beneath the bottom of the waistband with both blades the same length.

 

 

Well, this is quite the mystery. Are your shirt collars especially low?

post #1463 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

 

Well, this is quite the mystery. Are your shirt collars especially low?

 

No, just a typical collar position.  I have a 15" collar and can fit just one finger between my collar and neck.

post #1464 of 5264

A tie is a very personal thing and there may be extenuating factors behind why we converge around a similar length and width despite different builds. 

 

Edit: I reread your posts better and redacted my comments. I see you have done some experimenting to arrive at what works for you. By the way, I was flicking around some old threads and saw Will of ASW mention that he likes his ties at 55'', and he is just shy of 6ft. This is all very intriguing and I suspect has something to do with how high or low we are wearing our pants on the waist, and how we each are defining high-waisted (i.e. somewhat high waisted on through to fishtail level).


Edited by sprout2 - 2/10/13 at 7:04pm
post #1465 of 5264

Help e pick out a first order of Hober Ties!  I have paged through most of this topic and, despite having 25 or mor tes, I have no grenadine and no true solid ties.  I have mostly brioni and talbott (most Talbots are 7 fold).  I like heftier ties and prefer the brioni knots to the thinner fabric 7 fold talbott tho the latter's  thicker silk 7 fold, estate and best of class knot better.  Anyway, I want to try an initial order of 2 grenadine and one other.  After looking at this forum, I decided on a dark navy grossa until I noticed it was sold out.  I wear a lot of dark suits--charcoal grey and navy both solid and pinstripe and I would like at least one a tie that I could wear with a black blazer.  I am a lawyer and tend o go toward more conservative patterns.  I am also confused about Fina versus grossa (and 4 versus six fold!) but lean toward grossa at first blush.  

 

So, what to get in place of dark navy grossa?  Does this one make sense?  Eek, one left!  Does midnight blue go with black?

 

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-pin-dot-silk-ties/grenadine-white-on-midnight-blue-pin-dot-silk-tie-1.html

 

or should I get a dark navy fina instead?  I like the idea of a burgundy or bitter chocolate too.  I think one fina and one grossa to start, but suggestions welcome as to which pairing are most welcome--and if certain colors are better in fina or grossa, that would be great to know.

Thinking of a regular silk tie, perhaps a lined 6 fold for my third choice.  Maybe a red tie like this:

 

 

http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-131.html

 

A stripe:

 

http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-131.html

 

Or (wild for me) a madder?

 

http://www.samhober.com/madder-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-madder-printed-silk-tie-7.html

 

thx for any thoughts!

post #1466 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvwine View Post

Help e pick out a first order of Hober Ties!  I have paged through most of this topic and, despite having 25 or mor tes, I have no grenadine and no true solid ties.  I have mostly brioni and talbott (most Talbots are 7 fold).  I like heftier ties and prefer the brioni knots to the thinner fabric 7 fold talbott tho the latter's  thicker silk 7 fold, estate and best of class knot better.  Anyway, I want to try an initial order of 2 grenadine and one other.  After looking at this forum, I decided on a dark navy grossa until I noticed it was sold out.  I wear a lot of dark suits--charcoal grey and navy both solid and pinstripe and I would like at least one a tie that I could wear with a black blazer.  I am a lawyer and tend o go toward more conservative patterns.  I am also confused about Fina versus grossa (and 4 versus six fold!) but lean toward grossa at first blush.  

So, what to get in place of dark navy grossa?  Does this one make sense?  Eek, one left!  Does midnight blue go with black?

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-pin-dot-silk-ties/grenadine-white-on-midnight-blue-pin-dot-silk-tie-1.html

or should I get a dark navy fina instead?  I like the idea of a burgundy or bitter chocolate too.  I think one fina and one grossa to start, but suggestions welcome as to which pairing are most welcome--and if certain colors are better in fina or grossa, that would be great to know.
Thinking of a regular silk tie, perhaps a lined 6 fold for my third choice.  Maybe a red tie like this:


http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-131.html

A stripe:

http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-131.html

Or (wild for me) a madder?

http://www.samhober.com/madder-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-madder-printed-silk-tie-7.html

thx for any thoughts!

The correct answer is that you should buy all of them and then a few more... smile.gif

In all seriousness, grenadine grossa is a looser grenadine weave than grenadine fina. I prefer grossa myself and think them both perfectly appropriate for conservative business dress, though I suppose fina might have a slight edge there.

My midnight navy pindot tie is one of my favorite Hobers. I prefer it with a charcoal or navy jacket but don't own any black non-tuxedo jackets so am not sure. Since you have no grenadine ties and no true solids, I'd get the midnight navy pindot and one solid grenadine. You really can't go wrong with any shade here but a burgundy might be a nice color. The other ties you posted don't do it for me personally. YMMV.
post #1467 of 5264

Okay, got over indecision paralysis and ordered the garza grossa whit dot on midnight blue, the fina burgundy (tho it was hard not getting the grossa after seeing a lovely pic on this thread, but I thought I should try both), and a regular silk tie. http://www.samhober.com/dot-silk-ties/english-dot-silk-tie-3.html. I also ordered a bunch of swatches.  I kept the grenadines 4 fold lined tho am tempted to try one six fold and requested the red pin dot die in lined six fold (unless David thinks will be too thick).  Looking forward to joining the Hober club.  

post #1468 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvwine View Post

Okay, got over indecision paralysis and ordered the garza grossa whit dot on midnight blue, the fina burgundy (tho it was hard not getting the grossa after seeing a lovely pic on this thread, but I thought I should try both), and a regular silk tie. http://www.samhober.com/dot-silk-ties/english-dot-silk-tie-3.html. I also ordered a bunch of swatches.  I kept the grenadines 4 fold lined tho am tempted to try one six fold and requested the red pin dot die in lined six fold (unless David thinks will be too thick).  Looking forward to joining the Hober club.  

Definitely get a navy grossa when it's available. I don't have any Hobers (hoping to change that soon) but I have a Drake's grossa and a Chipp fina, so I have a general idea of the difference between the two fabrics. I prefer the grossa as I think it's slightly more interesting to look at, but I guess the fina is a bit more conservative, although you would have to hang out with a pretty discerning crowd for people to even know the difference between the two.
post #1469 of 5264
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

For those playing along at home and considering bespeaking ties by mail without the aid of a professional and a good mirror, here is a pro tip: order the same tie, preferably a solid, but not too dark, as it has the illusion of looking slimmer than its dimensions (try a medium brown, it will be easy to pair with your existing wardrobe when you conduct the test) in maybe three to five differing widths and lengths.

Go for the cheapest construction option and collect your four nominally identical ties. Test them out in sequence to determine which dimensions look best on you. When finished, give the experimental ties away as gifts and resume ordering your new ties with the dimensions you know to work.

*It is advised to have nailed down a good shirt and suit pattern before doing this as it can skew your results greatly.

Or you can measure a tie that you already have that you like and fits and order using those dimensions. Then all you have to do is select the color, material and construction. David has lots of great info on his site that makes the process very easy.
post #1470 of 5264

Two questions. First, following are Drake's ties, but what would be the Sam Hober equivalent of the tie on the left? Forest Green garza grossa or fina?

 

Second question is, I am thinking of either garza fina or grossa in burgundy/dark chocolate/bitter chocolate. Which type of garza and color would you guys go with? I know the best answer is getting them all, but due to my limited budget, I have to be cautious (and meticulous).

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