Understanding Denim - Page 2

How?

My personal experience is that it doesn't affect the future fading characteristics, and I can't see much of a reason it would do so. What's your evidence? You're giving advice to people, would be good to know the basis of your recommendations.

I'll reiterate what some have said, and I believe the site is pretty informative for a denim novice.

That being said, I would caution against always pre-soaking before wearing. This can depend on the particular brand and type of denim. I say this because I bought a pair of EP's a few months ago and the soaking process actually relaxed the denim to the point that stretched out like crazy. I then had to wash them in warm water to shrink them back to the original size. Everything turned out fine, but I probably could have gone a bit longer without a soak. I guess my point is soaking is imperative for unsanforized denims, but others should be left to the discretion of the wearer.

What I want to know is why I should care? I mean, not to say that what you've got to say isn't important, but I mean, it's so generic. Everyone is just talking about this man. Give us something more, something that we can get behind so we can feel as passionately about it as you do

I'm confused as to why an entry entitled "Jeans Construction" doesn't mention anything about how the jeans are sewn, let alone much in the way with how the jeans are assembled but more so what details a pair of Levi's have.

"You will see even Italian fashion brands such as Dior use Japanese fabrics in their premium raw jeans."

Momotaro provided denim for Gucci at one point.

"The term "selvedge" is often associated with Japanese denim and it refers to the byproduct of creation on a shuttle-loom. Selvedge denim is generally of higher quality than regular denim and gives the jeans a nice edge on the outseam of the pants. The purpose of this selvedge is mean to be so the denim does not unravel itself, however I have never heard of it happening on retail jeans and so it is really only used as a mark of quality."

I'd love to see a primer on what "quality" means. I see this assumption thrown around a lot, but I don't know that I've seen a good explanation of why selvedge is "higher quality." I know why selvedge denim is more difficult to manufacture, but how does that translate into quality when you're wearing it? For instance, in my experience selvedge denim doesn't necessarily last longer because the big weak spot on all jeans, as I see it, is the crotch, and selvedge denim is just as susceptible to blowouts as non-selvedge. If selvedge is just a tighter weave of denim because it's made on narrow looms then what are the desirable characteristics of more tightly woven denim that make it better than wide-loomed denim? Think of questions like that and then find answers (I could be wrong, but I think that's what the poster meant when he said facts from the internet were just being regurgitated--in other words, do some original reporting).

And I think if you're going to get into quality you have to talk about dyeing and construction as well. What are things a person should look for in the construction of jeans when they're handling a pair in store as they think about buying them? For instance, what does a well-sewn seam look like versus one that's poorly sewn? Are there any telltale signs of shoddy denim? What are some indications of good dyeing? Can you tell what rope-dyed denim looks like versus other methods? I think these posts you're doing could actually be a great resource if they're really detailed and contain info beyond what's already well-known.

It might be more helpful if you explain what selvage actually is. Then explain that it only appears on shuttle loom denim. Then talk about the difference between shuttle loom denim and projectile loom denim, and detail how projectile looms became common around the time that OE yarn was introduced, and manufacturers started using more sulphur and less indigo. Otherwise, you're just saying 'selvage is great' - when on its own, selvage has nothing to do with intrinsic quality.

i soak everything, sanforized or not. there's always gonna be some sort shrinkage in the denim and i like getting it out of the way and closer to how they'll eventually fit after a wash. as far as the dude who says they stretched out more than they would have without a soak....how? have you worn non-soaked ones before? i can't see how soaking them would make them more prone to stretch than normal unless they were worn damp or something.... it's gonna stretch out regardless so maybe those were just destined to do it anyways. getting them wet isn't gonna magically activate some stretch quality and, if anything, is gonna tighten the weave.

^I agree with soaking everything at first. It usually gets the denim to pop a little. I don't think they stretch more with an initial soak, but I would say they stretch sooner with one. I usually buy my jeans a little small, so an initial soak helps them stretch to a comfortable fit sooner. This is pretty good advice, and not too OCD like many people get with their jeans. My only input is that I've generally found it unnecessary to turn jeans inside out unless they are going in the washing machine. Most of the dirt on my jeans is on the outside, so I think it makes sense to leave them right side out for a soak/hand wash in the tub. Plus, the creases seem to stay where they are. If they are going in the washer, it's likely that a crease or two will form, and turning them inside out should prevent that crease from fading due to abrasion while in the washer.