Originally Posted by PsylentStorm
Thanks for the reply!
I'm really new to the forums, and even more new to the idea of custom made suits. Are there any resources you recommend in finding a rough idea about which of the more intricate details of suits would be best suited for my body? For example, I pretty much know the larger details: lapel type, fit, vents, pockets, etc... the typical details MTM outlets ask for. The details I haven't fully thought out would be exactly the things you mentioned - buttoning point, arm hole height, lapel size, gorge height, etc. I know a lot of that is largely up to preference, but is there material anyone recommends on where I can get a rough idea? From what I've read, his suits are best made if I have a good idea of what I want.
I plan on getting measured and "putting in the order" with Richard this weekend. I'd like to be as well prepared as I possibly can. Richard was very nice, understanding, and accommodating, I'd like ti do my best to reciprocate.
The easiest way to get a full appreciation of what gorge height and button stance does to the look of a suit, is to just browse era by era. If you ever studied art history, you'll see similar trends in terms of movements and the countermovements that followed. Almost every decade from the late 19th century to present has a definitive look; and they are usually a reaction to the previous standards. These are easily characterized by looking at jacket length, lapel width, gorge height, button stance, darting, and shoulder / sleeve head treatments. Also be aware of Euro v US movements.
Here's the hard part. There are two primary schools of thought when you start researching what looks are "best" or "most appropriate". First, there's the iGent standard. StyleForum has a pretty accepted and somewhat rigid interpretation of what looks best and how things ought to be done. The second, is "fashion". Designers and their marketing teams work very hard to reinvent and market trends that are fashionable. These rarely, if ever, overlap with iGent standards.
The third perspective thrown into the mix, and the most important, is your own perception of "style". If you can make something, that's well fitted, work (whatever look, whatever era) and you feel great doing it; then that's your style. People are used to being marketed to. A man, dressed well in his own way and exuding confidence will typically convince others that he's doing something right.
Lastly, the larger details are what matter most when placing
the order. The smaller details are what matter during the basted fitting. You can experiment with different buttoning stances during the fitting, and the gorge height is easy to tweak at that point as well (though not something that shows immediately like a button stance adjustment).
There's a reason a lot of us take pictures during the basted fitting. You'll probably be very excited during your first basted fitting (or even others after that) and it's easy to gloss over a talking point you meant to bring up. This may result in something that isn't quite right, and it'll probably show in the photos taken during the fitting.
This is where the iGent, fashion, and style perspectives collide. When you post the photo, you have to balance all three (based on how much they matter to you). I personally like to play at the very fringes of iGent territory while still appealing to most of the "rules". You'll have to decide what's best for you.
BTW, I enjoyed these threads on button stance. It might help you with characterizing the effects of button stance adjustments: http://www.styleforum.net/t/207990/the-button-stance-thread
& http://www.styleforum.net/t/223582/high-vs-low-button-stanceEdited by coolal - 2/22/12 at 1:46pm