Thank you Winston S. and othertravel for your helpful information.
Indeed the Liberty Plaza store proved to have far better service than the midtown location, and somehow, the Fitzgerald cut, as you suggested Winston, did fit - not sure why the pants didn't seem to when I tried another on at the midtown location.
I appreciate the knowledge I've gained from reading the forums here, it was nice to know how to advise the tailor on what I liked, so thank you all.
A question - the shoulders in a 40 fit well, but the sleeves both had an indentation roughly in the area of the upper tricep / rear deltoid where my arm just didn't fill the sleeve - i.e. the actual width of the shoulders themselves was fine, but the sleeve itself seemed a bit loose, right at the top in the rear area only. The tailor said the only way to fix that would be to widen the shoulders themselves so as to drape the material straight down and avoid the dimple, which I thought would just look worse. He said this indentation was typical and not really avoidable. Might anyone be able to tell me if this is fixable (or if its not a big deal?)? I've done my best to demonstrate on another picture (from me from the tailor thread on a pre-alteration jacket). The fit is not-at-all similar, I merely used the picture as a means of demonstrating the location of the issue, which is about the same size as the drawn-on oval, and a slightly indented area which my posterior upper arm just doesn't fill out. Thank you.