Quote:
Originally Posted by
upnorth 
Quote:
Originally Posted by
banis
I don't know whether Carmina is gemmed or not and I don't have information about amount of handwork. I may ask Betty Albaladejo those questions, if she agrees to answer them. As for welting, all Carmina's shoes are Goodyear.
I believe all goodyear welted shoes are gemmed and by extension, all Carminas. Maybe DW can confirm this.
Technically speaking Goodyear welted refers to a process which typically involves gemming. Any shoe that is advertised as being Goodyear welted should be suspected of using gemming.
The original Goodyear welted shoe relied on a rather complex and not very functional method of cutting two channels in a leather insole and folding them up perpendicular to the surface of the insole. I am not sure how many factories still use this method but it was more or less abandoned in favour of the gemming years ago. I would suspect that there are not many machines left that can cut and fold the channnels.
But the term Goodyear welted" is based on the a machine invented by a fellow named Goodyear. It requires a standing rib of some sort.
Nine times out of ten if it is Goodyear Welted it is gemmed.
There are also machines that can channel an insole and sew an inseam much like a hand welted inseam would be done. It is my understanding that this method is not "Goodyear welted" however. It is something else again. The machines that do this are few and far between and are difficult to control especially on narrow toes.
Vass is hand-welted...they are
not Goodyear welted. If someone says they are, they are misusing the terminology--I read the book, cover to cover.