Carmina Shoe P0rn. - Page 3
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Machine welting (using the Goodyear welting machine) usually, possibly always, involves gemming.
Here's some porn in boot form: derby boot, model 797 in mid-brown (as in not Cigar or Ravello) shell cordovan, Forest last, leather soles. As for price-quality ratio, Carmina brings the most bang for one's buck in RTW shell cordovan models. Do forget Alden.
It all starts with a trip to Paris...
Sure, the Eiffel Tower, Louvre and Notre Dame are must see attractions. However, no trip to Paris is complete (as far as SFers are concerned) without a visit to Carmina.
The 'soldes' were on, but alas, the following pair was not on that list. C'est triste.
More pictures, including lickable soles, are included in the spoiler.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I believe all goodyear welted shoes are gemmed and by extension, all Carminas. Maybe DW can confirm this.
Technically speaking Goodyear welted refers to a process which typically involves gemming. Any shoe that is advertised as being Goodyear welted should be suspected of using gemming.
The original Goodyear welted shoe relied on a rather complex and not very functional method of cutting two channels in a leather insole and folding them up perpendicular to the surface of the insole. I am not sure how many factories still use this method but it was more or less abandoned in favour of the gemming years ago. I would suspect that there are not many machines left that can cut and fold the channnels.
But the term Goodyear welted" is based on the a machine invented by a fellow named Goodyear. It requires a standing rib of some sort.
Nine times out of ten if it is Goodyear Welted it is gemmed.
There are also machines that can channel an insole and sew an inseam much like a hand welted inseam would be done. It is my understanding that this method is not "Goodyear welted" however. It is something else again. The machines that do this are few and far between and are difficult to control especially on narrow toes.
Vass is hand-welted...they are not Goodyear welted. If someone says they are, they are misusing the terminology--I read the book, cover to cover.
I was in Paris in May and bought the second pair from the left. I wanted those suede/calf onces on the right, but the only size they had was a half size too small. Bummed. I still might order them, though I've fallen in love with the walnut Carmina pair that I did score.