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HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker - Page 203post #3032 of 32334/12/16 at 10:43pmpost #3033 of 32334/12/16 at 11:20pmpost #3034 of 32334/21/16 at 5:59pmpost #3035 of 32334/21/16 at 10:06pmQuote:
These are American, right? The markings and pattern look American and not Italian. They are probably by Ansewn, which was a American moccasin manufacturing company in the Lewiston area owned by the Rancourt family, then owned by Allen Edmonds, then purchased back by the Rancourt family. It essentially became what is Rancourt now. That is my guess.post #3036 of 32334/22/16 at 1:32ampost #3037 of 32334/24/16 at 8:35pmpost #3038 of 32334/26/16 at 4:51amQuote:
That would be Sartoria Castangia. I thought only St. Andrews made Sulka, guess not.Quote:
Unfortunately I cannot give your a definite answer, however I can tell you they are 100% not Canali.
100% not Lardini. I have a suit with the same manufacturers tag, I've had it for about a year now and I'm yet to identify the source.post #3039 of 32334/26/16 at 6:15amQuote:Originally Posted by Dirt
Thank you both for such great info! Really appreciate it. I had read somewhere that Zegna was responsible for some TF but the post made it seem they were talking about when he was designing for Gucci. All makes sense thought, as aside from my listed concerns about the authenticity of the shirt, the overall feel and quality of the shirt when you touch it made me...sad. It feels like a Gap oxford shirt , honestly.
To be honest, I would bet the quality of cotton and construction isn't much better. There's zero doubt that shirt is entirely machine made and definitely of no notable quality. If he made those shirts nice then people wouldn't fork over the $990 for the white sea island cotton ones. That shit is the same as the LV uniformes line essentially, it's just a label on a very very average quality shirt.Quote:
That would be Sartoria Partenopia. Fucking excellent constructed suits, one of my favorites by far.post #3040 of 32334/26/16 at 6:29amQuote:Originally Posted by pi34
Hey - perhaps you guys can help me with this. I'm also selling it if anyone is interested. Basically, I got this NWT Alfred Dunhill sport jacket/blazer [realistically, I'm fairly certain it is an orphaned suit jacket] in a staple grey kind of color for a really good price from a S5AOF. A bit of an older button stance in a large size 48US/58IT.
Any information would be great. I know Dunhill is a high end maker, but I am not sure whether "Alfred Dunhill London" is a diffusion or cheaper. The buttons being attached threw me off a little, but I know a good number of makers in the $1500-$2250 range do this from time to time. I figured I could get some insight if I learned who made it. Really, I appreciate any information on it.
They don't make a diffusion to my knowledge and this jacket seems to be made quite recently. When they went by Dunhill strictly, they were made by Zegna, then went back to Alfred Dunhill London and were made by Caruso, however this manufacturers tag looks to be an in house tag, perhaps they moved production in house or have contracted a crafting house that just does contract work and doesn't have a house brand of their own.
With Fuax buttonholes on the sleeve, it's not rare that they attach the sleeve buttons as well just so it doesn't look strange when sold. I'm honestly curious about this piece myself, is it fully canvassed, how much handwork? Overall quality of the thing?
And yes, 4 buttons and that seemingly worsted plain weave wool would be an orphan.post #3041 of 32334/26/16 at 6:44amQuote:Originally Posted by MZhammer
Does anyone know what the "Col Pic" box on the Zegna tag refers to? Or, better yet, does anyone know which of these refers to the actual color of the jacket?I've never thought of myself as the guy who couldn't tell between true Navy and black but now I'm puzzled. Bought a jacket that was listed as Navy, pics seem to show it as such. Upon receipt it looked extremely dark and I couldn't decide which it was, looks to be absent of any blue shades. I tried searching online and every maker tag I saw for "Black" items has a Col Pic 29 whereas the few Navy ones I looked at Had Col Pic 11... I'm wondering if it's indicative of the color.
That's black hopsack for sure. Col Pic 29 is on all Zegna tags for their black suiting. I know the actual wool type is a different one of those codes, but all you need to know is your eyes are fine, that shit is black, return that fucker and tell the guy to see an optometrist or work in a lit room.post #3042 of 32334/26/16 at 6:49amQuote:Originally Posted by vestbash
These are American, right? The markings and pattern look American and not Italian. They are probably by Ansewn, which was a American moccasin manufacturing company in the Lewiston area owned by the Rancourt family, then owned by Allen Edmonds, then purchased back by the Rancourt family. It essentially became what is Rancourt now. That is my guess.
Yes, these are american-made.
I have read about Ansewn but didn't know that they had been absorbed into the Rancourt family.
Thanks,post #3043 of 32334/26/16 at 5:53pmQuote:
i doubt it,it doesn't like these two tags below which are Partenopia i knowpost #3044 of 32334/26/16 at 6:10pmQuote:
Sincerest apologies to all, I never answer shit unless I know I'm right, however I got lazy here and fucked up. Just took a pic of my Partenopea suit and you're absolutely right, the tags are similar but definitely not the same. Sorry all.post #3045 of 32334/27/16 at 7:06pmQuote:
Actually the more I look at that original tag the more I conclude that this is quite possibly an Isaia production tag difference type of situation. Because the two photos you provided do seem to be Partenopea, but with that said, the Photo I provided is without question a Partenopea tag, cuz I took the photo myself of my personal Partenopea suit, and like the original tag in question, mine too is similar to the examples you provided, however isn't identical either. You'll notice mine has wide border on the left with labeling and "Napoli" etc...
That first tag may not be an exact match to the photos we both provided, but I'm having a hard time concluding that that thing came from anywhere else than Partenopea, Due to the fact that the tag is not attached to an actual Partenopea piece, but is a licensed piece, I think this is the tag for their lower grade line for the companies they make low grade stuff for. So, although I'm not positive here, I'm retracting original apologies and all because I may not be able to prove this but I'm pretty sure I'm right here...however of course am open to any and all who challenge, please by all means, I'm not infallible, I'm pretty good at this stuff though.
And just to further my points, the differences between the tags I mentioned, mine and yours, are for a reason, that reason being quality. If you look closley, you'll notice an absence of a size on my tag, just a random name and the numbers 256, this is because this suit is MTM, thus higher grade, thus different tag, which proves the fact that their tags vary depending on grade of construction.
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