Suits: how does Z Zegna fit compared to mainline Roma & Milano?

Hi gents,

A question for those who are familiar with Zegna suits. I love my Z Zegna which fits me perfectly, but being a diffusion line and fused, does not hold up in terms of quality. I've read that the mainline Roma cut is fuller and the Milano is slimmer, but wanted to know how they fit in comparison to Z Zegna. Though in Canada, I don't have access to Harry Rosen, and if I make any online purchases it'll be a blind one. Thus, can anyone shed light on this? Much appreciated.

The problem is not all Z are cut exactly the same. Not all Roma,Milano etc are all cut the same.



I've got a couple of jackets lately that on the label only say SMA. They are more fitted then normal Milano. Then on the Zegna website they are showing some jackets labeled Milano Easy.

I've tried on Z that I couldn't get on in my size. I've tried on ones one size down that almost fit perfectly.

Milano in general has a bit softer shoulder and chest then Roma. It tends to be a touch smaller over all so more fitted.

Originally Posted by Nicola

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The problem is not all Z are cut exactly the same. Not all Roma,Milano etc are all cut the same.


I've tried on Z that I couldn't get on in my size. I've tried on ones one size down that almost fit perfectly.

Yup, they don't seem to all use the same cut/sizing - I'm usually a 36 but in ZZegs I have tried on I actually size up to a 38 whereas Nicola's experience is the reverse needing to size down. Most of the ZZegs I have tried on are from the "City" collection FWIW.

z-zegna has 2 models, the "city" (drop 7) and the "drop 8" which is narrower in the shoulders as well.

I can't speak to the mainline

Fit aside, Z-Zegna products fall apart. Specifically the shirts and suits/jackets.

I have a bunch of Roma suits, one Milano and several Z. The Z and Milano have a similar fit for the jacket, with the Milano perhaps having a tad more waist suppression. The trousers on the Milano have a higher rise than the Z and are less tapered below the knee.

I have bought a 50R in all of these, other than the Milano that was a 50L. The Milano and Z suits fit without any alterations (save hamming the trousers), the Roma suits required alterations to slim the jacket at the waist and take in the waist and seat of the trousers. My Roma Tuxedo only required trouser alterations. Hope this helps.

I sold Z Zegna and regular Zegna suits for about six years and saw both of them progress. Z Zegna had pleats in the beginning if you could belive that! Anyway, Roma is bigger than Milano, Z has the two main cuts of City (drop 7) and Drop 8. I haven't tried on either in a while, but I can tell you that unless the City has changed, I'd avoid, as the fit looks dated. The Drop 8 is a great fit actually. Most people do end up sizing up, and they cheat on the pant size to accommodate this as well. As far as quality, I think it's one of the better large production suits out there in the low $1,000s. The fabric isn't great, but compared to Boss and the likes it is a good suit. The biggest differences between the two lines are the armhole, chest, and length, and of course the shoulder. Zegna is decidedly more Neapolitan than Z Zegna. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by bkstone

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Agreed

Is this based on direct experience or assumptions on construction and word of mouth?

Those info have been helpful, thank you. I guess my main issue came down to whether, as a Z Zegna wearer, I would be happy with moving into a Roma. It doesn't appear to be so, and that I should really wait for a Milano to come along.

Funny that I really like my City model, and didn't realize that it's dated. It definitely looks more aggressive, especially in the shoulders, than most. By that I mean they look more padded and structured, though still quite thin. On the other hand, all other models appear to have softer shoulders. I really need to compare these things in person. For now though, I will stick to what I am comfortable with.

I can't really comment on the quality besides the fabric, which is really nice. Haven't drycleaned yet so I don't know if they'll bubble, but I believe Zegna Soft was the problematic brand. Guess we'll find out soon enough, since mine are due anyway. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I literally just tried on a couple of Zegna mainline suits, and I found the Roma to be a better match for my bodytype. Far for me to argue, but I felt like the Milano had less waist suppression and had a lower button stance. On me, it looked baggy through the mid section (though it fit well in the shoulders. I've got a pretty athletic figure, and the milano did nothing for me. I loved the silk blend fabric on the Zegna milano, but didn't love the cut, and ended up just going back to the Canali's that fit like a glove on me.

Sounds strange. The Roma is normally cut baggier then the Milano.

I guess you could have gotten a high drop Roma and a portly Milano but like for like I don't think I've seen a Roma that wasn't baggier then the stock Milano.

I bought a Z Zegna about four years ago on Bluefly. IMO quality was terrible - I would have sent it back if it didnt fit so well from jump. Lapels bubbled aftered first dry cleaning. It is now a rainy day suit only.

Been using a real sweet Tom Ford Blazer the last year but felt I needed a beater jacket for the mondays thus picked up a navy Z Zegna City jacket. Was a bit worried after reading this thread before the purchase but have to say that the cut is actually very modern and the cloth is definitely ok for the price bracket. Obviously it doesn't drape nearly as nice as a canvassed jacket but I have to say it's a positive experience so far. Can't comment on the quality as I've only worn it twice.